HMS Victory at Portsmouth Historic Dockyards

Cheers,

   For someone who lives on a boat, I truly have no real interest in them or naval history.  Or military history in general though I am beginning to wonder how we won the Revolutionary War given the great British Navy.  Lots of thanks to the French and Spanish I think.  Sometimes I wonder if the British  lost us or just decided to jettison the whole lot of us pesky Yankee Doodles. 

   This email is about the HMS Victory because she’s the reason Randal wanted to visit Portsmouth….I went along to keep him company.  The more “interesting stuff” will be in the following emails.

Ru

Portsmouth Historic Dockyards 

http://www.historicdockyard.co.uk/

Often when visiting places I take a zillion photos, return home, do tons of research and then send out overly long emails.  Well, I must admit that British Naval History just isn’t one of my interests.  I spent two full days touring  ( more like following along behind Randal) the Portsmouth Historic Dockyards and that’s about enough of that.  The odder quirky things caught my attention, but the real focus, ships and battles didn’t.  Sorry, that’s just the way it is.  There’s lots of good information at your local library for anyone who wants to know more.  Tell them I sent you.

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Nautical terms we use in our everyday language, “first rate” and “broadsides.”

What is the difference between a broadsheet, broadside and tabloid?

A broadsheet is a full-size newspaper, sometimes mistakenly called a broadside. A broadside is a a large sheet of paper, generally printed on one side and folded into a smaller size, often used as a direct-mail piece or for door-to-door distribution. A tabloid is a newspaper of less-than-standard size, generally about 1,000 – 2,000 AGATE lines on a page that is 14 inches high and has four or more columns, about 12 inches in width.

//www.newspapersoc.org.uk/frequently-asked-questions

HMS Victory……

“On 7th May 1765 HMS Victory was floated out of the Old Single Dock in Chatham’s Royal Dockyard.  In the years to come, over an unusually long service, she would gain renown leading fleets in the American War of Independence, (against us)   the French Revolutionary War (against the French) and the Napoleonic War.  In 1805 she achieved lasting fame as the flagship of Vice-Admiral Nelson in Britain’s greatest naval victory, the defeat of the French and Spanish at the Battle of Trafalgar.

For Victory, however, active service did not end with the loss of Nelson.  In 1808 she was recommissioned to lead the fleet in the Baltic, but four years later she was no longer needed in this role, and she was relegated to harbour service – serving as  a residence, flagship and tender providing accommodation.

In 1922 she was saved for the nation and placed permanently into dry dock where she remains today, visited by 25 million visitors as a museum of the sailing navy and the oldest commissioned warship in the world.

Over a period of 34 years, between 1778 and 1812, HMS Victory took part in five naval battles. Trafalgar is not only the most famous of these but also the last.  Commissioned for service in the American War of Independence, Victory fought in the First and Second Battles of Ushant and the Battle of Cape Spartel, whilst during the French revolutionary War she was Admiral Jervis’ flagship at the Battle of Cape St Vincent. “  http://www.hms-victory.com/history

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Randal looking at the model od HMS Victory with its full masts.

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The top half of the masts are being repaired.  (No she’s not leaning to the side, it’s just an odd photo.)

     “The final mast removal on HMS Victory has taken place this morning (0800 Friday 23rd September, 2011) when the mizzen top mast was removed as part of the restoration work taking place on Nelson’s flagship at Portsmouth Historic Dockyard.

     Bell Rigging, sub-contractors for BAE Systems have been overseeing the work as the ship’s three masts, bowsprit and rigging have all been dismantled over the summer. The last time HMS Victory was seen without her top masts was back in 1944, so this really is a once in a life time opportunity to see HMS Victory under-going such extreme maintenance.

     The National Museum of the Royal Navy’s Director General, Professor Dominic Tweddle said: “Watching the team painstakingly disassemble the rigging and masts of HMS Victory has been heart stopping at times! To do this intricate work, while still keeping Victory open to the public, has been a logistical masterpiece.

Interestingly, with her topmasts down, Victory will look much as she did after the Battle of Trafalgar when she had to be towed to Gibraltar for repairs.” 

Most of the highly skilled operation has been carried out by master shipwrights and other specialist staff employed by BAE Systems who, while operating on the cutting edge of technology on modern warships, maintain the age-old wooden shipbuilding skills.

     John O Sullivan, BAE Systems Project Manager for HMS Victory, is in charge of the maintenance: “We have removed the upper sections of all three masts and bowsprit, booms, yards and spars, including 26 miles of associated rigging and 768 wooden blocks, some of which are 100 years old. We will then catalogue and document everything for future surveying, design and replacement.

     When the rigging is replaced a decision will be made as to whether the wooden rope blocks can be re-used, recycled or replaced. Our team will carefully manage this major restoration project, keeping disruption to a minimum.”

– See more at: http://www.historicdockyard.co.uk/

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During our tour it was hard to hear over the pounding of the caulking.  Randal did a second tour the following day and the hammers were silent.  And each guide has their own story to tell so he enjoyed both tours.

Lord Nelson: the hero of Trafalgar … his dress coats with empty sleeve as he’d lost his right arm in battles.  He really is a huge hero in British Naval History.

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Our guide explained that the G R stood for George Rex….King George the III.  He also pointed out to those Americans on the tour, that George III was our king too, albeit our only king. 

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“About fifteen minutes past one o’clock, which was in the heat of the engagement, he was walking the middle of the quarter-deck with Captain Hardy, and in the act of turning near the hatchway with his face towards the stern of the Victory, when the fatal ball was fired from the enemy’s mizzen-top. . .” http://www.eyewitnesstohistory.com/lordnelson.htm

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Some of the guns

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Today springs are used to check recoil, but in the days of HMS Victory the cannon were on wheeled carriages, with ropes to stop them from recoiling too far when fired. Also, the ship pitched when

sailing, especially in the rough seas, and the term "loose cannon" originally referred to a ship’s cannon loosed from its rope and rolling dangerously on the deck.

http://wiki.answers.com/

http://www.go2gbo.com/  another good explanation

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….but we didn’t….Oh well

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Sleeping quarters…and also you shroud if buried at sea.  They would sew you into the cloth used for your bunk, the final stitch through your nose. 

“Burial at sea, a simple yet most impressive and dignified ceremony, is the most natural means of disposing of a body from a ship at sea. It is still the custom to sew the body into a hammock or other piece of canvass with heavy weights, formerly several cannonballs, at the feet to compensate the tendency of a partly decomposed body (as would be the case in the tropics) to float. To satisfy superstition, or to ensure that the body is actually dead, the last stitch of the sailmaker’s needle is through the nose. Ensigns of ships and establishments in the port area are of course half-masted during a funeral.” http://www.hmsrichmond.org/avast/customs.htm

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“HMS Invincible, a 74 gun ship, was wrecked in the Solent in 1758.  In the late 1970’s the ship was excavated by archaeologists.  This collection numbers over six hundred artefacts from the ship providing a unique picture of life onboard an eighteenth-century warship.  This square plate was issued to a sailor for eating his food off.  It is the origin of the expression ‘three square meals a day’.  Ref: 1987.0045.01 INV 175  http://www.thedockyard.co.uk/

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Letting the “cat out of the bag>”

   “A second theory ascribes the origin of the saying to the British Royal Navy, asserting the instrument of punishment used upon those errant in their duties or behaviors (a whip called the ‘cat of nine tails’ or ‘cat-o’-nine-tails’) was routinely kept in a red sack, thereby a sailor who brought to light the transgressions of another was "letting the cat out of the bag." However, no evidence documents that such whips were commonly stored in sacks, or that the phrase "let the cat out of the bag" was initially associated with maritime origins or usage. (but it is what our guide told us and you can see the red bag hanging there.)

Read more at http://www.snopes.com/l

LAWS OF THE SEA AND PUNISHMENTS  (not pleasant reading)

   “The punishment listed in the Admiralty Black Book for sleeping on watch, a very serious offence because it endangered the ship, was at first humiliating and for repeated offences brutal. A bucket of sea-water was poured over the head of a first offender. A second time the offender’s hands were tied over his head and a bucket of water was poured down each sleeve. For a third offence the man was tied to the mast with heavy gun chambers secured to his arms, and the captain could order as much additional pain to be inflicted as he wished. The fourth offence was inevitably fatal; the offender was slung in a covered basket hung below the bowsprit. Within this prison he had a loaf of bread, a mug of ale and a sharp knife. An armed sentry ensured that he did not return aboard if he managed to escape from the basket. Two alternatives remained — starve to death or cut himself adrift to drown in the sea.

The Articles of War, a purely naval code of discipline, stem from this source. These were first written in 1661 in the reign of Charles II. The punishments listed were brutal, but the principle has remained to present times: "For the good of all, and to prevent unrest and confusion."

The King’s Rules and Admiralty Instructions (K.R. & A.I.), which made their first appearance in 1731, contain general regulations, including discipline, governing the naval service.

A punishment which was particularly harsh and usually fatal was keel-hauling, awarded for serious offences, and discontinued in the Royal Navy about 1720. It was still practised in the Dutch and French navies until 1750.

Execution by hanging at the yardarm was the normal punishment for mutiny in the fleet. The last execution was carried out in 1860. As a capital punishment it was by no means instantaneous as is said to be with the case with our modern practice. The prisoner’s hands and feet were tied, and with the noose about his neck a dozen or so men, usually boats’ bowmen (the worst scoundrels in the ship) manned the whip and hoisted him to the block of an upper yard, to die there by slow strangulation.

The most common type of punishment, inflicted for almost any crime at the discretion of the captain, was flogging with a cat-o’-nine-tails (1). This was carried out "according to the customs of the service", namely at the gangway. The indicted was given twenty-four hours in which to make his own cat. He was kept in leg-irons on the upper deck while awaiting his punishment. When the cat was made the boatswain cut out all but the best nine tails. If the task was not completed in time the punishment was increased.

With heads uncovered to show respect for the law, the ship’s company heard read the Article of War the offender had contravened. The prisoner was then brought forward, asked if he had anything to say in mitigation of punishment, then removed his shirt and had his hands secured to the rigging or a grating above his head. At the order "Boatswain’s mate, do your duty" a sturdy seaman stepped forward with the cat — a short rope or wooden handle, often red in colour, to which was attached nine waxed cords of equal length, each with a small knot in the end. With this the man was lashed on the bare back with a full sweep of the arm. After each dozen lashes a fresh boatswain’s mate stepped forward to continue the punishment. Each blow of the cat tore back the skin and subsequent cuts bit right into the flesh so that after several dozen lashes had been inflicted the man’s back resembled raw meat. After each stroke the cords were drawn through the boatswain’s mates fingers to remove the clotting blood. Left-handed boatswain’s mates were especially popular with sadistic captains because they would cross the cuts and so mangle the flesh even more.

After the man was cut down he was taken to the sick berth, there to have salt rubbed into his wounds. This was done not so much to increase the pain as for its antiseptic qualities.

From 1750 into the 19th century twelve lashes were the maximum authorised for any one offence.

Until the end of the 18th century the punishment for theft, a hateful crime against one man or many in a ship at sea, was for the thief to run the gauntlet (or gantlope). The offender first received a dozen lashes in the normal manner with a thieves’ cat, with knots throughout the length of the cords, and while still stripped to the waist passed through two lines of all the ship’s company, to be flogged with short lengths of rope. Lest he move too fast to benefit fully from this ordeal the master-at-arms marched backwards a pace ahead of him with the point of his cutlass against the thief’s chest. And to prevent him stopping a ship’s corporal followed him in a similar manner. On completion of the course the thief was given a further dozen lashes.

Another form of punishment was flogging around the fleet. The offender was secured to an upright timber in a ship’s boat, and when it pulled alongside each gangway a boatswain’s mate entered the boat and inflicted a certain number of lashes. For added effect the boat was accompanied on its rounds of the fleet by other boats, each with a drummer in the bows beating a roll on his drum.

Flogging was not abolished in the British forces until 1881 in response to strong public opinion.

Until suppressed in 1811, it was a common practice for boatswains’ mates to carry and use on their men colts or starters, small whips somewhat like knouts or knotted ropes, which they carried concealed in their hats. The boatswain’s mark of authority was the bamboo cane or rattan he always carried, and with which he summarily executed punishment.

A punishment awarded by messdeck court martial for cooks who spoiled a meal was to be cobbed and firked, that is beaten with stockings full of sand or bung staves of a cask. This practice was officially disallowed after 1811.

A form of corporal punishment, i.e. "birching or caning on the bare breach" (K.R. & A.I.) remained until recent years as a punishment for boys. Birching was suspended in the service in 1906, but caning is still administered occasionally as a punishment for boys, cadets and midshipmen. “

http://www.hmsrichmond.org/avast/customs.htm

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Gravel was used as moveable ballast to adjust the balance of the ship.

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Both Randal and I seem to remember this overhead beam had the name of one of the sailors carved into it.

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I loved the wood floors.  But unlike the USS Constitution there were no prisms embedded into the deck to let in light below.

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HMS Victory’s hardstand supports.

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I certainly recognize “The Rock of Gibraltar” where Victory was towed after the battle of Trafalgar off the coast of Spain.

Ice Sculpture at SKD

Cheers,

  With all of the recent horrible weather around Great Britain and Europe, Randal and I have been quite lucky avoiding it.  We spent Tuesday and Wednesday in Portsmouth at the Historic Dockyard and most of Thursday making our way back to London by way of Lymington.  All of our travel was by train and all of our trains were on time, though the weather did affect some train travel from the north.  The only rather silly disappointment was that our train from Victoria to Portsmouth had no food car or tea trolley so I wasn’t able to have any Brit Rail Tea.  Portsmouth was cold and overcast, but most of the time we were indoors at the various museums or aboard the HMS Victory or HMS Warrior.  The weather was even good enough to take the short motorized harbor cruise that came with our entry ticket. 

   It will take me a bit to send photos as I got hung up right away at the mention of the American Revolutionary War.   “Commissioned for service in the American War of Independence, HMS Victory fought in the First and Second Battles of Ushant and the Battle of Cape Spartel.”   Where the hell are Ushant and Spartel?  We have Bunker Hill Day in Massachusetts and Lexington and Concord…so how could I have no clue about the “American Revolutionary War battles of Ushant and Spartel.”   http://www.hms-victory.com/content/history/battles    Anyway, wasn’t Massachusetts the star of the show when it comes to the Revolution?  I certainly do have a skewed sense of history!  Good thing I’m doing this boating thing so I can see there really is more to the world than Eastern Mass and the Red Sox. 

Here’s the quick simple version……  which was discovered by a witty  Frommer’s guide while researching sheep.  Obviously no one takes the direct route to the Battle of Ushant…one must stumble over it looking up something else.

“To my surprise, I learned that this sheep has a tie, albeit a loose one, to the American Revolution. It seems that Ushant, a tiny island off the coast of Brittany on the south end of the English Channel, was the site of a nasty naval battle between the French and the English in 1778.  France, loath to pass up a chance to attack the British, had recently decided to enter the war on the American side.  The British sent out a fleet to keep an eye on French naval activities in Brest, and the French sent out a fleet to see what the British were up to.  They met up somewhere around Ushant, where the weather got so bad that neither side managed to do much damage to the other, nor could either claim a victory.  Each fleet came home to cranky officials and much political squabbling.”   http://useless-paris.blogspot.co.uk/  Margie Rynn author of Frommer’s EasyGuide to Paris 2014.

Anyway, this email is about something totally unrelated….   “ 16:30 Friday : Two ice sculptors have been sculpting a Christmas tree this afternoon on the large pontoon in the centre basin.”  This email was from Gus and Helen cruisers here at the marina.  So Randal and I got ourselves together…a long coat will cover flannel stay on the boat pants…and went to take some photos.  The sculpture is in the Central, show off basin where “events” take place.  We’re in the west basin with the construction, but it’s okay.  Each basin has an advantage, ours is closest to the tube, at least it is when the construction isn’t blocking the walkway.  Temperatures will be in the low 50s tomorrow so not sure how long these sculptures will last.

And thank you all for your comments about our approaching lifestyle change.  It will be interesting!

Ru

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Close up from across the central basin

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Blue Tower Bridge  cables in the background

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Walkie Talkie Building at night seen from our marina….

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Dora Mac For Sale

Cheers,

    We are now officially the owners of 100 acres of mountain top land in Roanoke County.  One day our home will be up there overlooking the Roanoke Valley.  We will again become land lubbers!

This is the official notice of our decision to put DoraMac on the market.  We hope the next owners, whomever they might be, will feel at home on her as we have.  She has taken good care of us.

Tonight we will join with the Friends of St. Katharine’s Dock for their December get-together festivities.  It’s a very early holiday party.  Tomorrow we’ll get up bright and early (set lots of alarms) take the tube to Victoria Station and then the train to Portsmouth.  (Brit Rail tea for me!)  We’ll spend a few days there seeing what we missed our earlier visit when the museums were engulfed in the venue of a music festival and not open to the public. 

Next Saturday, as the tide will be at a low point, some of us, led by Sue Kelly, will go mudlarking on the Thames to see what we can find.  Maybe some colored sea glass.

Stay warm wherever you are, even our pals in Marmaris (though a recent photo taken by our friend Mary showed everyone in T-shirts or sleeveless!)

Ru

Below is the official word from Randal…..

Subject: Dora Mac For Sale

We are putting Dora Mac on the market for sale. We haven’t turned it over to a broker yet but probably will soon. The boat is currently berthed at St Kathrine’s Dock in London where the slip and electricity is paid for through March.
The boat comes fully equipped and cruise ready. We are ending our cruising life so everything comes with the boat.
I will post pictures and a list of features in a few days. I can be contacted at: randal462@msn.com and our web site with some pictures is: www.mydoramac.com
Sincerely,
Randal Johnson
www.mydoramac.com
"It is not the strongest of species that survives, or the most intelligent,
but the ones most responsive to change" – Charles Darwin

Thanksgiving Day part 2

Cheers,

   Yesterday Randal and I raced over to the British Museum to join up with a www.walks.com tour.  Today I had my third life drawing class.  Time is flying!  

Our cruiser group is passing a set of germs around and several folks have running noses and coughs.  Randal had a dose and shared with me, but mine was much milder…me being a tough New Englander.

This email completes our Thanksgiving Day adventure. 

Ru

The Brunel Museum and Mayflower Pub Lunch

“The Brunel Museum in historic Rotherhithe is directly above the Thames Tunnel which opened 170 years ago in March this year. This is where Isambard Kingdom Brunel began his extraordinary career, aged nineteen years. Working with his father Sir Marc Brunel, he helped build the first tunnel under a river anywhere in the world.”  http://www.brunel-museum.org.uk/

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/ is a great article with history and loads of then and now photos.

       My favorite part of the visit was chatting with the fellow in charge that day.  He let both of us pay the concessionaires fee (some museums require you be 65,) set up the introductory video, and then interrupted his lunch to make me a cup of “Brit Rail Tea.”   He was a train buff and told me several stories; the most amazing is when he climbed a train water tower to take photos of a train passing by. 

  What is Brit Rail Tea?  I’m not sure what it is, but I know what it’s not.  He offered Earl Grey and Lady Grey and Brit Rail.  When I said “plain old tea” was fine, I got what he called “Brit Rail.”   It was made with a quick soak of a tea bag and then a splash of milk. 

     “The teabags sold in UK supermarkets tend to make stronger tea than their rather frightening American counterparts. If you can get hold of some British teabags, you can make tea the way they do at London train stations. We call this British Rail tea.

     When you order a cup of tea at a London train station they dump milk, sugar, teabag, and boiling water into the cup at the same time and then hand it to you. This makes for a uniquely generic flavor that is just right for an early morning zombie commute. You can achieve similar results on a larger scale by using a full-sized insulated carafe instead of a cup. This should last you all morning, and keep you "going" all afternoon. “  http://ubiqx.org/cifs/Appendix-A.html

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Brunel Museum

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We couldn’t go into the shaft that day, but on www.walks.com they take you there.

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Brunel was also famous for train bridges and train stations as well as the design of several famous ships.

http://www.brunels-old-station.co.uk/section.php/41/1/brunel_s_old_station_history

http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/historic_figures/brunel_kingdom_isambard.shtml

My favorite things were these “peep shows.”   In an episode of Larkrise to Candleford, a great BBC series set at the end of the 19th century, some school children made one of these so to get to see one here was neat!  Theirs was not so elaborate but was constructed on a similar basis. 

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You look through this opening……

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While in the museum I had a quick chat with an American couple from Ithaca, NY about a www.walks.con tour they’d done related to Brunel and the Thames.  They were also off to have lunch at the Mayflower.  … More about them in a later email.

Then it was time to walk the short distance along Rotherhithe Street back to the Mayflower Pub to meet up with our SKD cruiser pals for lunch.  Our reservation was for 1:30 PM.  Randal and I were early but were the last of our group to arrive.  We were all seated in the upstairs room over the bar; the room where Brunel and his friends would come to work on his tunnel project.  The pub was crowded and dark so once we sat down we pretty much stayed put, so I don’t have many photos really.  Service was excellent!  Our food was prompt and we were all served at the same time, amazing as there were 12 of us. 

There’s some info about the Mayflower Pub below  as well as at their website http://themayflowerrotherhithe.com/

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Not our group but you can see what the place looks like

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Upstairs bar

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I loved the light and the flowers!   I know the difference between cheddar, mozarella, blue, etc, but the British cheeses, I’ve no clue.

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Gerry and Holly, the couple from the Brunel Museum on the left.  Charlotte and Allen  from Portland, ME on the right; all were at the tables just next to Randal and Me.  Our group was at tables set up in front of the window.  I was sitting next to Collin in the stripped button down shirt and Randal was across from me.

We met Gerry and Holloy in the Brunel and Charlotte and Allen in the Pub.  Gerry and Holly came to visit DoraMac Saturday evening, their final night in London before heading to Brighton and then back to Ithaca, NY.  Charlotte and Allen live in London at the Southdock Marina on their boat and will come visit when Charlotte returns from a trip to France.

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We had what seemed to me traditional Pilgrim fare rather than American Thanksgiving food which now includes everything under the sun and any number of dishes with marshmallows melted on top.  Our meal started with pumpkin soup and “village bread.”  Then this mountain of turkey, roasted veggies and “sweet potato mash.”  It was more than I could do, though I did eat all my veggies which were cooked as vegetables should be.  You can see my mug of mulled apple cider just next to the snowman.  (Of course I do love melted marshmallows on sweet potatoes!) 

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I’d intended to bring a plastic container for my dessert but forgot, so I ate it then and there!  I wouldn’t call it pumpkin pie, but it did have pumpkin and crust and a very thick cream on top.  I washed it down with a pot of tea!

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Not a great photo, but you get the idea. 

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After leaving the pub we revisited the Pilgrim  statue and then walked back as it grew dark at 4 PM.

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Rotherhithe

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My Hanukkah candles….  Tea candles on a wooden cutting board. 

The Mayflower pub stands on the site of The Shippe pub that dates back to around 1550.

It is close to where the Mayflower ship was fitted out for the long transatlantic voyage.

The pub was rebuilt as the Spread Eagle and Crown in 1780 and renamed as The Mayflower in 1957.

It was the nearby landing steps to this pub that the Pilgrim Fathers set sail aboard The Mayflower Ship.

The pilgrims left Rotherhithe and headed for America via Southampton and Plymouth

The location they landed on is now known as Plymouth Rock

· The Mayflower was a 12-year-old, 180-ton vessel, which had previously been used in the wine trade

· The voyage took 66 days

· Former President George Bush, Richard Nixon, Marilyn Monroe and Humphrey Bogart were all descendants of the Pilgrim Fathers

· The Mayflower Pub is the only place licensed to sell American stamps in the UK

· Michael Caine was born in Rotherhithe on 14 March 1933 as Maurice Joseph Micklewhite. He is patron of the Southwark Young Pilgrims

The Mayflower public house was named for the ship that carried the Pilgrim Fathers.  It is not known exactly where the Mayflower was moored, or where she departed from when she left Rotherhithe for her first stop at Southampton, although there is a local convention that it was near the current site of the pub.  The pub’s website claims that it was established in 1621 but although the pub has a satisfyingly ancient appearance it looks a lot older than it actually is. A pub near the site of the Mayflower pub called The Shippe is the oldest one recorded, and is thought to have dated back to around 1550.  A pub called The Spread Eagle was certainly established on this site, but it is not known how old it was when it burned down in the 18th Century.  It was replaced in 1780 with another pub, The Spread Eagle and Crown, but this was also doomed, and its top floor and roof were obliterated in the Second World War.  It was only rebuilt in 1958 when it was renamed The Mayflower.  An attractive building both inside and out, with a large jetty, its architects set out to evoke a vague impression of the past rather than impose a 1950s contemporary design on the area.  In spite of its recent date, its much older look makes it feel authentically connected with Rotherhithe’s early history and that’s rather nice. http://russiadock.blogspot.co.uk/search/label/Public%20art