Ephesus Ancient Site Part 1

  In the tropics you can do your laundry at sunrise and it will be dry before 10 am.  Here you do your laundry at sunrise and maybe it’s dry by 2 pm.  I did laundry on Sunday and today and both times shortly after it was hung up the clouds, gloom, and the humidity  rolled in.  So then I had to rehang it all in the boat.  A few hours later the sky cleared and then the laundry went back out.  I’m going to have to rethink this laundry thing to match the spring Mediterranean weather.  There’s a morning net (communications network among the cruisers) which among other things gives a weather report.  It comes on at 9 am.  The report today was for high humidity and bad drying weather.  But between the late sun and the wind it all eventually dried.  Most of the day is cold (to us) or cool, but midday is almost hot.  And  I’m not quite sure if rainy season has past so an umbrella is pretty necessary even if the sun is shining when you start out.  I left mine behind the other day and regretted it when it started to rain.  But Marmaris wet isn’t the bone cold of Istanbul wet so it’s okay.

  Today besides laundry I continued to try to straighten up and clean the boat.  We have way too many books so I decided to take a bagfull over to the library.  I walked first to Juliet dock to say hello to Linda and Michael who were waiting for a sailmaker to come about making a new sail for them.  They lightened my load taking magazines and several paperbacks.  Then I continued to the library managing not to get lost.  I came away with two paperbacks, both Oprah books; but I have room now on "my" bookshelves.   I stopped at the marina grocery for some Coke light, eggs and dark chocolate.  I need the chocolate after a meal of veggies and white cheese which is really like feta but tastes better because it tastes fresher and not so salty.  Wifi is still a bit iffy.

Ru

Ephesus Ancient Site

The Smithsonian Life List

28 Places to See Before You Die

http://www.smithsonianmag.com/specialsections/lifelists/lifelist-ephesus.html

By Helen Starkweather

Smithsonian magazine, January 2008

“Over the centuries, a succession of empires—Greek, Persian, Roman, Byzantine and, finally, Ottoman—ruled over the city of Ephesus. Yet no matter how many times it changed hands, the city remained one of the most vibrant metropolises of the ancient world. Located on Turkey’s western coast, nearly 300,000 people lived there at its height, in the second century A.D. Its busy seaport ferried goods from Asia to Greece, Italy and beyond.

Ephesus’ greatest claim to fame was its temple to the goddess Artemis. One of the "seven wonders" of the ancient world, it was almost four times larger than the Parthenon in Athens. According to the New Testament, the Apostle Paul preached in Ephesus, prompting a riot led by silversmiths who crafted shrines to the goddess and feared for both their livelihoods and the future of the temple.

Today, a few columns are all that remain of the temple. But there is still much to see that evokes the city’s former splendor. A three-tiered theater, built into the slope of a hill, once seated 25,000. Just outside the city stands the Church of Saint John, built in the fourth century over the evangelist’s presumed tomb and expanded into a basilica some 200 years later.

Jodi Magness, an archaeologist at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill who has visited Ephesus more than a dozen times, says the city "is almost like a snapshot in time. You get the sense of what walking down the street of a Roman city was like without having to use your own imagination."

Read more: http://www.smithsonianmag.com/specialsections/lifelists/lifelist-ephesus.html#ixzz1Kvp8YVkv

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Our guide Jem showing us the layout of Ephesus.

Jem was very knowledgeable and made it lots more interesting than it would have been to just wander. But I just soaked up the sun and marveled at the ruins and took lots of photos rather than notes so I can’t tell you lots facts other than what our oddly translated guide book says. “The city of Ephesus was first established on the shore of the bay at the point where Cayster River (Kucuk Menderes) falls into the sea and on the slopes of Mt. Pion (Panayar Dagr.) When the alluviums carried by this river filled the bay, it was moved to the southwest of the mountain, that is the slopes of Mt. Koressos (Bulbul Dagi.) ….Since the port of Ephesus was completely filled with alluviums carried by the Cayster River at the beginning of the Middle Ages, Ephesus became smaller since it was no more a port city or trade center. When it was captured by the Seljuks (original Turks) in 1090, it was a small village. Ephesus was completely left after it went through a short glorious period in the 14th century.”

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As soon as you arrive you’re dazzled by all of the ruins.

These particular ruins are part of the Varius Baths. According to the guide book we bought, the baths included a frigidarium (cold room,) apodyterium (undressing room,) tepidarium (lukewarm room,) calidarium (hot room,) and sudatorium (sweating room.) The Baths were heated with the hot air passed through below the floor called “hypocaust.”

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It’s easy to feel young when everything around you is ancient!

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The Oedum, Agora and the Basilica

The Odeum was used for municipal meetings and concerts for the wealthier Ephesians. It was built by P. Vedius Antonius and his wife Flavia Papiana in the 2nd century A.D. and could seat 1500 people. The State Agora was built during the reign of Emperors Augustus and Claudius in the 1st Century AD. Religious and state meeting were held there. The Basilica was a trade center during the Roman Empire. Guide Book

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Doric, Ionian and Corinthian

Remember when you had to know which was which and why.

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Poppies are everywhere.

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The Memmius Monument built in the 1st century AD for the family of Memmius who was the grandchild of dictator Sulla.

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A relief of the goddess Nike, the winged messenger also associated with victory is just across from the Memmius Monument.

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I think these are the ruins of the hospital but they aren’t shown in the guide book for me to double check.

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This relief was near the hospital and I’m not sure if it is Hermes and the caduceus or Asclepius, the god of healing with a single snake symbol called the rod of Asclepius. Apparently there is a controversy as to which is the real symbol of the medical profession.

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Curetes Street

“During the period of the Roman Empire, the priests dealing both with religious and state affairs were called the curetes. Since the bases of the columns with the names of these priests inscribed on them were found at the beginning of the street, it was called the Curetes Street.” Guide Book The guide book also says that there is a sewage system under the street. The end of Curetes Street going back toward the Odeum is narrows with columns on either side to prevent chariots from going any further along the way.

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Curetes Street looking toward the Celsus Library

Next stop the Scholastikia Baths and the Temple of Hadrian

Some fun stuff

An extra email just for fun.

Ru

Doramac

Fast Food and Silly Shopping Stories

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Linda Levy being Linda Levy

This picture was taken on Marmaris waterfront but seems an appropriate illustration for this story. . Marmaris Yacht Marina is about a 30 minute bus ride from the waterfront up the bay.

Randal, Linda and I went into town Monday for groceries. We made a few stops and then ate at our favorite chicken wrap stand before going on to the Tansas Supermarket

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We always pick the Pilav Ustu Doner for 4 TL or $2.60 US

The “chef” presses a big wood spoon against the chicken and then cuts off paper thin pieces of chicken as it rotates. (A doner kebap “a revolving kebap” on a vertical spit with slices of lamb, beef, or chicken cut off as the outer layer cooks. Or so it says in my Berlitz Istanbul guide. ) Then piles of chicken, lettuce tomato, onion, chili sauce and ketchup and mayonnaise are rolled into a thin slightly fried crispy pita bread wrap. Randal and I skip the mayo and ketchup but Linda and Michael go for it all. The doner for 2.5 TL is cheaper, but has less chicken and a different bigger type of bread.

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This stand is directly across the way but we never eat there.

Once you pick a place you have to stick to it because it would be awkward to eat across the street from your regular place, if you know what I mean. Maybe this guy makes great wraps but we’ll probably never know.

Turkish Fast Food

There was an article in Monday’s English language newspaper, Daily News about fast food in Turkey. “Domestic fast-food chains, new to Turkey just 15 years ago, are now increasingly strong competitors to foreign chains due to their offerings of traditional tastes, their low investment costs and their experience with economic crisis. ….. Some foreign brands such as South Africa’s Nando’s, global ice-cream chain Baskin-Robbins, the Hard Rock Café and the sandwich shop Quiznos, all of which entered the Turkish market with great expectations, have now withdrawn or are withdrawing from the market one by one. ….(Wendy’s and 7-Eleven were mentioned as withdrawing also)…..Simit Sarayi, Kahve Dunyasi, Bay Doner, Citir Usta and Pizza Pizza are the leading domestic chain.

I have no idea what food is served in a place called Kahve Dunyasi or Citir Usta but I’ll find out. There is nothing fancy about the doner kebap stands and the wraps come wrapped in plain paper with no advertising or toys for the kids. Just good food, cheapish. Asian food was cheap; Indian and Turkish fast food is cheapish. Marmaris has a Burger King and a McDonalds. McDonalds always have bathrooms and there is one just where we catch the bus back to the marina. I’ve used their bathroom but we’ve not eaten there yet. When we bought our bus tickets from Pamukkale to Marmaris we were given a “buy one, get one free” coupon from McDonalds. We’ve never seen doner kebap coupons.

I have read about Simit and have maybe eaten one or something similar. It was sweet with seeds and flaky, tasting like it had lots of butter and sugar in it. A simit looks like a cross between a bagel and a pretzel but apparently is not boiled like bagel or pretzels are. A simit is baked.

“Simit is a fast food bread sold in the streets of Turkey by vendors. It is often eaten as a breakfast food with jam or yogurt. Simit is also great by itself!

Simit is light and flaky, baked to a golden brown color, and topped with sesame seeds. It is sometimes formed into rings, and are often braided.” http://mideastfood.about.com/od/breadsrice/r/simitrecipe.htm

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Simit seller at the Thursday Market: they are the round things on the right side of the picture.

So now for the silly stories about our trip to the Tansas Supermarket. To prepare for shopping I had worn my big orange backpack. Inside I’d put an extra cloth carrying bag. Randal carried our blue cooler. When we got to the Tansas Supermarket we took a shopping cart and put our big blue cooler into it. Linda also got a shopping cart. Linda and I started, as one does at home at Kroger, with the vegetables and fruit section. Randal went off to explore the meats and whatever. Randal and I met up near where a Tansas clerk was handing out samples of a type of sausage that sort of tastes like baloney. Randal and I had tasted it on a previous visit to the market. We needed find canned tuna, so Randal said, “Leave the cart there and come with me.” I did, and we didn’t find what we needed at first so Randal continued down the aisles looking for the tonbaligi, (canned tuna in Turkish,) and I went back for our cart. Our cart was gone. A cart was near where we had left ours, but it wasn’t our cart. I found Randal and he and I went up and down and all around the whole store until I finally found Linda who was pushing our cart wondering why I had put our blue cooler in her cart. Actually, first I found Linda and then I noticed our blue cooler and then Linda noticed the food in the cart didn’t match her food. It was pretty silly but a relief not to have to start picking out food again to say nothing of losing our cooler. We went back to her cart near the sausage lady. I walked by the sausage lady going one way and knocked off her sliced sausages with my back pack. Next time I passed her I carefully held my pack close to me and knocked off the sausages with my front camera bag/ pocket book. The kind clerk kept saying, “that’s ok, no problem.” And I kept saying SORRY!!! SORRY!!!!! I truly felt trapped in my Lucy persona. If the sausage had tasted good, I would have bought some; but it didn’t. I stayed totally clear of the sausage lady for the rest of the time we spent in the market. Getting boxed milk took me close but I would have left without it if I’d had to pass by the sausage lady again. It truly keeps one humble!