Mussels !! Maybe as good as New Bedford!!!!

Bonjour,

  So one final email from Brest.  A food story as I’d not done one yet.  Anyone notice?  We had two really good meals, one Sunday night and one Monday afternoon.  Lots of flavor and what was supposed to be hot, was.  Our friend Sharman (owner of Sophie and walking pal in North Cyprus) says Cherbourg has lots of good restaurants.  Yum! 

One last thing: the people at Marina du Moulin Blanc are as friendly and helpful as could be.  This is a great place to stop if you’re travelling this way!

Ru

Dinner at the Ὰ l’aise Breizh Cafẻ….

  Sunday lunch at Le Tour du Monde we’d seen mostly everyone else eating mussels so Randal decided to give it a go for dinner.  I was craving salad, which I’d not noticed on the Tour’s menu so we tried the place next door.   We both had exactly what we wanted.  I must say the mussels were great: I tried one.  The mussels were cooked with bits of sausage in a very light cream broth that was really very flavorful.  Mussels are traditionally served with  “pommes frites”  which our waiter called French Fries.   But then he knew we were Americans.  My salad was wonderful with great greens and avocado and enough chicken and cheese that I was stuffed at the end.   Monday we returned and each had the fish soup that was so flavorful, we both licked the bowls clean.

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Mussels and fries and some lovely white wine!

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Before..

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Pommes frites

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During….

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Removing broth from beard….

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Ate the whole thing!  Finis!!!

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Well maybe that last drop of broth with some bread!

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Big bowl of empty shells……

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Dinner view

DoraMac is on the dock just beyond these boats in the north marina section.  It’s quite a trek to get there from  the restaurant, a good thing after a big meal.

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Just near the marina office which is just a 5 minute walk from restaurant row.

Off in the distance is the gate to the secure dock area which is locked between 7 PM to 7 AM…

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But we do have the code and it worked just fine so no locked out or in problems here !

Most marinas have security where the boats are located…at least from the land side.  

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Low Tide

Through the gate and then down the walkway that changes considerably with the tide. 

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High tide…the same walkway is almost level which it was Monday afternoon.

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Over the final bridge and then onto the floating dock at the end of which is our berth.

Everything is constructed to rise and fall with the tides.

Seaside

Bonjour,

   Today was provisioning day as we leave tomorrow for Cherbourg, our final stop before crossing the English Channel.  Randal and I walked the 30 minutes to the grocery store and then walked back.  This afternoon I walked over to the beach.  This is a very active community, not just watersports, but biking and walking too. 

Ru

A Walk along the Waterfront

Yesterday (Sunday afternoon) I joined the dozens of other people walking along the sea side path. I’m not sure where it actually starts; I joined it at our marina and walked to where the path ended a brisk 30 minute walk away.  After our 3 day passage I needed an hour’s walk, at least!   This morning Randal and I walked to the Inter Marche for groceries.  There were sidewalks and cross walks, and one row of charming houses with blooming flowers to admire.  Walkable cities are great!  If we’d spent 50 Euros the market would have provided transport back.  And the Carrefour will drive you both ways for free.  We didn’t need much, and did need exercise, so chose to walk back and forth to the Inter Marche.  This afternoon I walked over to the high tide beach.  At low tide clams are gathered and dogs are walked which seems to be prohibited at high tide when it turns into a swimming beach.

The Greenway along the Sea

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This reminds me of my Outward Bound boat (the mast is lowered.) 

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Small sculpture garden from natural stones

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Almost back at the marina.

Lots and lots of people:  Young, Older, Families, Dog-walkers, and rarely someone on a bike.  Most were strolling but I was walking fast so at times had the trail to myself.

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Young women paddle-boarding.

I’d started my walking with my heavy hoody sweatshirt.  Lots of folks had scarves and jackets.  I must admit when I started walking back towards the marina after reaching the end of the greenway, I had to take off the sweatshirt.  Maybe these girls were working hard enough to keep warm.

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This is also the view from our berth where something is always going on.

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This morning lots of activity and what looked like classes in all kinds of water sports.

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Learning to balance in a boat…I guess.

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They look like a combination of Tinkerbelle and The Fly…

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And for bikers there are lots of great bike trails that are only for bikes.  Walkers have their own trail.

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Bike Trails

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This great jungle gym on the beach.  DoraMac is just behind the point of the right side pyramid. 

This is where people clam at low tide.

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Beach graffiti

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Ingenious

At high tide boat comes forward onto the concrete ramp (which is underwater at high tide) and ties up.  When the tide goes out the boat is on the dry concrete ramp and ready for bottom work to be done so no travel lift is needed to get it out of the water.   As the tide goes out you adjust the lines so the keel actually rests on the bottom.

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Low tide

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Here they are in high tide!

Passage from La Coruῆa, Espaῆa to Brest, France through the Dreaded Bay of Biscay

Bonjour,

  My mostly forgotten school French has little chance here unless people speak very very slowly.  Then I might catch a few words.  Thankfully the kind young woman in the marina office speaks English as did the wait staff at the Le Tour du Monde restaurant where we ate lunch.  Probably we’ll have dinner out too as we’ve no veggies or fruit and the grocery store closed at noon, too early for us to get there as we had other stuff to do this morning.  Tomorrow we’ll stock up again and be off on Tuesday for Cherbourg, Normandy; our final stop in France before we cross the English Channel to Portsmouth.  It will be an overnight passage to Cherbourg, but thank goodness only a long day trip to Portsmouth.  I’m saving my worry about each of those passages until we actually start each one.

  We had a minor GPS issue with the course over ground reading but could deal with it; and brilliant Randal has now figured out how to correct it. 

I’m still a little tired but totally relieved that the Bay of Biscay is behind us. 

Ru

“Introduction – Why is Biscay so feared?”

    “Yachts going to (or returning from) the Mediterranean have the choice of using the French river and canal system, water and air draft permitting, or crossing Biscay – feared by many yachtsmen due to its legendary reputation. To a large extent this is a result of ships, in the days of square riggers, being unable to make way to windward having been driven into the Bay by the prevailing westerlies. In addition, the Atlantic swell can build up rapidly near the coast and a number of ports can become dangerous to enter or even inaccessible.

     Modern yachts, with their much more efficient rigs and their engines, should not have the same problems – particularly if they use weather forecasts carefully. Nevertheless, there have been several occasions in recent years of yachts getting into difficulties, sometimes with fatal consequences. From the accounts that I have read, I believe that most of these problems were avoidable and that few were entirely a result of bad luck or even poor forecasts.

      While we were waiting to cross Biscay in May 2000, two yachts arrived at Audierne having been caught in winds up to at least Force 9. One had left Finisterre with no forecast "it was a nice day with a southerly wind, so we left." The other left La Coruña with only the BBC 24 hour shipping forecast and no longer term outlook. Both were disasters that nearly happened.

     In bad weather, Biscay can be as unpleasant as any stretch of sea anywhere. But, if you want to get to warmer climes, as we did, and having a draft of 2 metres, then crossing it becomes a must. Having had several years sailing in and around Biscay, having talked to others and being a (now long retired) weatherman, I will try to give some help to those wishing to follow in our wake but who may have been put off by its reputation. “

http://weather.mailasail.com/Franks-Weather/Crossing-Biscay-Meteorologists-Advice

Ithaca

Do not fear the Lestrygonians

and the Cyclopes and the angry Poseidon.

You will never meet such as these on your path,

if your thoughts remain lofty, if a fine

emotion touches your body and your spirit.

You will never meet the Lestrygonians,

the Cyclopes and the fierce Poseidon,

if you do not carry them within your soul,

if your soul does not raise them up before you.

C P Cavafy

Those words are from one of my favorite poems ever, fittingly a poem I first heard at Outward Bound right before we set off on our “final expedition.”   Reverend Ken read at our wedding.  Our friends Becky and Mike had it written in lovely calligraphy for us.  It is framed and hanging in our tiny apartment at home.  Maybe I need to hang it here in DoraMac to remind me as my soul did raise every possible kind of monster/disaster  you could imagine.   But we had prepared the boat and Randal had checked, double checked, and triple checked the weather.  We’d survived the Indian Ocean crossing as well as Passage from Hell 2 from La Liῆea to La Coruῆa.  So I should have set out with some peace of mind rather than all those horrible thoughts that mostly comes from stupidly watching The Perfect Storm. 

  I used to be braver.  I used to like day passages and even night passages only scared me because I had too few boat driving skills.  Now I can drive much better.  Now I’m afraid of the weather, the boat having issues, both of us being seasick at the same time….and any number of other things.  We are no longer cruising “the lands below the winds.”  But maybe being scared is good as “there are old sailors and there are bold sailors, but there are no old bold sailors.”  No one will ever accuse me of being a bold sailor!

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Checking out, paying the bill, saying good-bye in La Coruña where the staff was so great and the city enchanting!

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Sunset our first night

We’d managed to get through the day without needing our stabilizers which says something about how bad it wasn’t but that didn’t relieve my fears one bit.

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Night with a half moon and stars and our mast light to make us visible.

Spain and France are UTC + 2, but Spain is further west so it gets light after 7 AM but stays light until past 10 PM.  With few clouds the first night it was rarely totally pitch-black dark.

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Sunrise day 2 : red sky in morning…but not until almost 7:30 AM….sailors take warning.

Sort of true as we had to put out the stabilizing fish our second day to counteract the roll from the 2 meter swells hitting us on our beam.

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Thankfully winds were calm: you can see the pattern on our wind indicator bandana.

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Only 5.8 knots from the west/north

Our passage from La Linea to La Coruna had 25 knot winds, yuck!

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My two Randals

Two hours on and two hours off for most of the first day since the rolling really puts you to sleep and it’s more comfortable lying down with your eyes closed.  We sleep in the pilot house when we’re off watch.  When I’m off watch and lying down I don’t worry so it’s ridiculous to worry when I’m sitting up with my eyes open.   But that’s the way it is.  I hold on to Rhino Randal during my night watches. 

From my passage journal…

    Looking out over a vast ocean and seeing nothing except a six foot high swell of water coming at you.  From the front, will it pound the boat to pieces?  From the side, will it roll the boat over a la Perfect Storm? 

  How to deal with fear while sitting watch:  Eat crackers or chips!  Or read to keep my mind busy.  (I actually could read this passage so how bad could it be, really?  Hold Rhino Randal.

Off watch: Lay down with your eyes closed.  If you can’t see it, it can’t hurt you.  Hold Rhino Randal.

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Going into Brest

I circled the Blue C in the diamond which indicates strong currents which can slow you down or bounce you around.  It slowed us down to less than 5 knots so the last 10 miles took forever!

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Light house entering the channel up to Brest; somehow comforting as the waves weren’t breaking over the rocks which it can at times.

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This huge sailboat was heading off to Spain : see how choppy! We had to fight against it and then anchor to pull up the stabilizing fish from the water.  Not easy at all.

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Sad image of WW 2 history in Brest which we passed on our way to the Moulin Blanc Marina.

U-boat Pens and I believe the former Naval College (L’ Ecole Navale) in Brest, from 1941 headquarters of the 1st Flotilla

“The RAF (and from 1943 also the USAAF) attacked the base and the bunker from January 1941 over 80 times and lost more than 50 aircraft during the attacks.

    But the first successes against the bunker finally came during August 1944, when the RAF (617th Squadron) attacked the bunker at Brest with Lancasters carrying 12,000 pound Tallboy bombs (6,4 meter length).

    The attacks came on August 5, 12 and 13 and all in all 26 aircraft dropped one such bomb each at the bunker, scoring 9 direct hits and a few near-misses. Of those only 5 actually penetrated the massive roof and caused surprisingly little damage inside the bunker and none to the U-boats there.

     The last U-boat to leave Brest was U-256 which had been repaired hastily and was commanded by the Flotilla Commander, Korvkpt. Lehmann-Willenbrock which took the boat out from Brest on 4 Sept and managed to bring the boat the Bergen, Norway on 17 October. Both Flotillas were disbanded in September and thus all U-boat activity ceased at the base.

     Brest was captured by the allied forced on September 21, 1944 after a fierce month-long battle which caused US forces over 10,000 causalities and almost wiped out the entire town. “

http://uboat.net/flotillas/bases/brest.htm

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DoraMac tied to the visitor berth.

Water separates DoraMac from those buildings; just hard to tell from this perspective.

The office had closed at 8 PM and we called the marina at 8:30 after wrestling with the paravane fish.  No one was there to help so Randal pulled up very close to the dock and I jumped off and boat hooked the lines and then tied us up.  Whew weee! 

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DoraMac on the visitor berth at the far FAR end of the marina.  But the wifi seems good so that’s all that matters and we don’t have to tie stern-to.  And we’re away from the restaurants/bars with any possible noise that can bring.  If there was any last night we never heard it for we were both out cold by 10 PM!

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Walking back from lunch at Le Tour  du Monde. 

After lunch I walked  along the greenway that follows the water.  There were hundreds of people out there which was nice to see.

Coruna People Pictures

Bonjour

  Before we left La Coruῆa, I’d written some emails but the wifi was down most of the day before we left.  So here they are now. 

Those of you who are boaters knew that passage night photo showed our stern light with the moon, not our mast light which is at the top of the mast.  Duh. 

Ru

   My favorite photos to take are of women, especially those of a certain age. You know they’d have stories if you could just ask.   But I take others too just to be fair.

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Always people walking; always people sitting at outdoor cafes.

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Choosing a treat from one of the many patisseries to have with coffee or hot chocolate.

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Taking a photo of a guy taking a photo…

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Just from the beauty shop….

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Here again on the street with all of the cafés. 

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Stripes are in…at least here in La Coruña : I really like this dress.

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Art project in the plaza

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They just ignored me (in a nice way) as I walked around taking photos of them. 

Everyone else I had to sort of sneak, but these young adults just thought it was okay for me to be snapping away.  They were doing something “photo worthy” so maybe that’s the difference where other people are doing more private things, like just walking along or wading in the shallows at the marina. 

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Spiderman has spent many days climbing this clock tower, but today I saw a truck pass by with lots of these plastic people so maybe Spiderman is finally getting a rest.  The Asterisk characters are back in Asterisk land too and no longer guarding the door of Town Hall.

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These are the women from our tour who called out “Virginia” to me last Sunday. 

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Here is our Picasso tour guide leading the Sir John Moore and the Romantic Coruῆa tour. 

We knew it was our guy because he had the same straight back, booming voice, and racing ahead walk.

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So that’s what you use for bait? 

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Our “drag behind” cart filled with fizzy water, Fanta Orange Zero, and some paper towels.  Once upon a time I’d have felt silly, but no longer and you see lots of folks doing the same thing, only with real shopping carriers.  Ours is a small dolly with a plastic basket tied to it.  A very pink plastic basket!

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How cool!

While we were waiting for our lunch in the jamoneria  (second visit) the lady on the right came in and sat down alone at the table just next to us.   Randal commented that if she spoke English we could talk to her as she was an “elderly lady alone.”  But soon the waiter came and put down her glass of red wine and I thought, how cool!   This lady knows how to live.  Soon her pal came in and they had a chat while the first woman ate her mini-sandwich and drank her wine.  All ages seem to mix much more in Europe than they do in the US.  Too bad as everyone is missing out.

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Trѐs chic and her older, more sensibly dressed friend. 

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One day you’re walking towards the marina in shorts and back packs;

 

And what seems like the next day you’re walking home in your “red hat.”

The funny thing is that kids sometimes feel “so old” and older people feel “so young.”

Around A Coruῆa 1

Hola,

  Today’s our last day in La Coruῆa.  We have a weather window for crossing the Bay of Biscay so that’s what we must do.  Not that the weather will be great; it just won’t be awful.  Or so the forecasts tell us.  You truly never know until you go.  If it’s no worse than our passage here, that will be great.  It certainly will be shorter; only 2 nights and 3 long days.  That will take us to Brest, France and the Marina du Moulin Blanc. 

   We have loved our time here in La Coruῆa, the city and the marina.  Everyone, marina staff, city workers, shop employees, and people on the street have been helpful, warm, and friendly.  I think we’ll remember La Coruῆa as one of our favorites!  Just wish all of our cruising pals had been here too.  Of course, then we might never have left at all.  

  Wifi has been down all day, the only imperfection of the marina…iffy wifi.  But here it is, so I’ll send one final email from La Coruña.  Next one will be from Brest, France if we can get wifi.

Ru

Around A Coruῆa 

Visit to a jamoneria…..

In Tunisia your lunch was wandering around just outside by the grill.  Here,in a jamoneria, it hangs from the ceiling until retrieved, strapped into a contraption on the counter, and then sliced up.  We found La Leonesa too late for lunch on Sunday so returned Tuesday to try it out. 

http://www.bestacorunabars.com/25-bars/la-leonesa/

“A fabulous jamoneria in the old city. A delicatessen for local clientele but also a fine bar to sample Spanish cured hams, cheeses and wines. A small restaurant is annexed next door. This friendly and popular bar may be a little overpowering for vegetarians, with a ceiling full of large hams! “

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Calle de Principe Just near Rua Principe and the home of Rosalie de Castro, a famous Galician poetess which is on the walking tour map.     

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Not so different from all those shops that sell ham in Virginia, except they’re not hanging from the ceiling.  You can also buy these hams in most grocery stores and small shops in Spain.  The tiny paper cones are to catch any dripping fat.

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Not much left to this one other than the bone!

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Retrieving a ham

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Is that Woody Allen?  No but the guy in the blue sweater reminds me of him!

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We actually ate it all!

Two kinds of ham, some cheese, some spicy chorizo, crusty wheat bread, beer and aqua con gas.   Randal bought some chorizo to bring back to the boat.

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How fitting to see a Citroen Picasso in the onetime home of Picasso.

http://www.topgear.com/uk/car-news/citroen-c4-picasso-first-drive-2013-6-6  is a review for those interested.

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La Bella y la Bestia : El Musical

You don’t have to know Spanish to know this advert is for Beauty and The Beast which is showing here in La Coruña.

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Sad

Asking for help to feed his two sons. 

It’s sad if this is truly the only thing he can do.  We’ve seen others kneeling or sitting with signs asking for change.   The teenage son of the Madrid family told me things are not good for people who have needs at this time.  La Coruña seems so prosperous though we’ve not been far from the “cultural center” to see where or how most people live.  People here seem to work hard but sometimes that’s not enough.

Three million in extreme poverty

Leading charity Cáritas talks of a "lost decade," as family income falls back to levels of 2001

More than six percent of Spaniards at risk of social exclusion

http://elpais.com/elpais/2013/03/24/inenglish/1364132011_984614.html

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Municipal Library

Photos weren’t allowed inside the library.  We did go in and up to the second floor to look and there were lots of people using it late morning.  This building didn’t start out as a library.  It says “…..Hacienda” over the door.  According to my dictionary, Hacienda with a capital H is Treasury which I’m guessing it was once upon a time.  We didn’t even know what it was until a man saw me taking a photo and told me it was a library.

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Frozen vegetables by the kilo

There are two small shops as you enter the building that houses our grocery store.  One side has frozen everything.  The other has deli type stuff and pet products.  Both of the smaller shops close during the afternoons but the big store seems to be open though we’ve never been there between 1- 4pm so I’m really not sure.

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Randal to the rescue, ….  of Doramac!

We heard noises as if people were walking on the boat which is rare but sometimes happens.  Would have been better if that would have been the case.  Instead  it was these kids clunking into Doramac with this rowboat they’d commendered from it’s place on the pier just off our bow.  They were rowing it around while still being tied to the dock.  Not sure why they didn’t untie it; perhaps because it wasn’t their boat.  I think it belongs to the marina.    Randal helped pull them back to where they were supposed to be but you can see scrapes on our hull. 

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View looking up while walking through the old town.

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Not a mime or street performer…

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I think she was directing someone moving a mannequin rather than pointing out dirt spots on the window. 

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Coffee and churros : fried donuts  and a Kindle…lovely combination

I took a break and stopped into Bonilla a la Vista while out exploring last Saturday.  Most folks have their churros with hot chocolate but I wasn’t so brave to have all that sugar at one time.

http://www.spain-recipes.com/churros.html

In New Bedford I worked at Camp Kennedy two summers.  The kids would bring me malassadas, Portuguese donuts which are similar to churros.  Apparently malassadas are a big treat in Hawaii too where Portuguese also settled as they did drawn to the fishing industry in New Bedford.

http://home.comcast.net/~osoono/ethnicdoughs/malasada/malasada.htm

Off to Brest France

10:14 pm La Coruῆa time

Hola,

   We’re off in the morning!

   Wifi has been down all day.  The only imperfection of this wonderful marina is the sometimes iffy wifi.  We experienced it also in La Liῆea.  But it’s on now though my email with photos won’t send.  I’ll have to forward it on from Brest, France, our next stop.  Marina du Moulin Blanc.  How’s that for a name?  Our passage will be three long days and two nights which is so much better than our last two which were 6 and 5 nights.  Actually the length isn’t as important as the weather and seas.  Everything is ship shape now so there shouldn’t be any boat issues.  One can at least hope. 

  It has been wonderful here and we’ll think of Marina Real and La Coruῆa as a favorite.

Ru

Heroic women of A Coruna : Maria Pita and Isabel Sendales y Gomez

Hola,

   Yesterday, Sunday, I was walking to the supermarket and heard, “Virginia!”  It was two women from our Picasso tour.  One of them was from Coruña and one from near Madrid.  Don’t know if they were sisters or friends.  Maybe I’ll see them again and ask more.  They spoke very fluent English.  As it was I could have stayed and chatted longer because the grocery store was closed just as they had been in La Liῆea.   I’ve no idea  why I thought this store would be open.  It certainly was crowded when we went early this afternoon.

   Looks like the weather will keep us here until Friday so there’s more time to wander around here. 

Ru

Maria Pita of La Coruῆa

  Saturday while Randal slaved on the boat, I went off touring more of A Coruña.  Hardly seems fair does it; but both of us were quite happy.  I took the walking tour map and set off for Maria Pita House and Museum to see the current art exhibit of Fina Maroῆa Castiῆeiras.  From the walking tour map I knew the museum was somewhere behind the A Coruῆa Information Office so set out in that direction.  Would I have found it without some help along the way….I think maybe, but it would have taken me longer.  The museum opened at 10:30 am but someone had forgotten a key so it was a bit later.  However that gave me time to talk with a lovely family from Madrid.  Lucky for me their teenage son was extremely fluent in English as his mom was the one who learned of the forgotten key and he could tell me.  The family had been to many of the national parks in the US as well as Delaware.  Not sure why Delaware, but the son had been with a family there I believe so maybe he’d been an exchange student.  He said the people in the United States were very nice and friendly!  Hurrah.  Very nice, helpful people.  I told them about the Francisco Xavier Balmis statue commemorating the 200th anniversary of the expedition that left from A Coruῆa in 1803 to eradicate small pox in the Spanish colonies in the Americas and elsewhere in the world. 

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Opening the door to the museum.

The Madrid family had booked an afternoon tour  of the Pillars of Hercules so had little time to spare waiting for the museum to open.  My day was free, but I didn’t want to have to find the museum again, so I planned to wait quite a while to see what would happen.  As it was the doors opened maybe 10 minutes late, so no problem for anyone.

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The lovely family from Madrid

While this family and several others went off to learn about Maria Pita and A Coruῆa history I went off to the small art exhibit.  The painting in the advert that had tempted me to the exhibit wasn’t there; but there were two I quite liked though they’re oil and I’ve become partial to watercolor, pen and ink, or just sketches. 

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My friend Heidi did a series of painting based on the story of a red chest of drawers.  Wonder where these shoes will show up next?   http://www.heiditrautmann.com/

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Reminds me of Van Gogh’s Saintes-Maries scenes of boats on the beach

Maria Pita, Heroine of La Coruῆa

“Maria Pita herself came to notoriety as a result of her role in Sir Francis Drake’s attack on A Coruna in 1589 and she is credited with playing a critical part in reducing the losses of the Corunans during this assault.”  http://www.galiciaguide.com/Maria-Pita-square.html

“The invading force vastly outnumbered the defenders.  The failure of the English attempts to break into the city can only be explained by the local’s obstinated resistance and in particular, by the active rold of women.  Over time the figure of Maria Pita became a symbol of heriism.”  Maria Pita House Museum Brochure

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Images of Maria Pita

The artist of the small painting is unknown; the larger one was by Isaac Diaz Pardo, 1946.

I believe these are not the originial, but I’m not sure

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This painting was included with those of Maria Pita but with no explanatory plaque.  I might just have to return to the museum and ask.  The one museum staff person was busy with the Madrid family and I didn’t want to interupt…or wait…so I just don’t know.  My take would be contemporary women protesting right-wing or even far left wing dictatorships in the Americas. 

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I’ve no idea about these either as there was no plaque by the painting and the statue had a plaque in Spanish.   All information other than the small brochure was in Spanish.

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“We conserve a considerable amount of details concerning Maria Pita’s life, thanks in part to her litigating character and her stubbornness in claining the compensation granted by the king in recognition of her role during the english siege.  She died in Sigras, in the parish or Cambre, in 1643, at over 80 years old.”  Maria Pita House Museum Brochure

 

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In Room II, we come across a water painting of A Coruña by Pier María Baldi, showing the city’s morphology in the 17th century and how it was divided into two cities – the Old Medieval City and La Pescadería.

Finally, in Room III, which concerns the siege, we can highlight the copies of maps of A Coruña and Ferrol in 1589, whose originals are in the Library of Congress de Washington, and were previously unpublished in Spain.  Other documents in the section whose originals are also at the Library of Congress are the facsimile of the Narrative of the Expedition of Francis Drake and John Norris in 1589, in Latin, and an extract from the expedition accounts book. 

One of the María Pita House Museum’s main goals is to provide information about the heroine of A Coruña and explain the framework of her lifetime in the 16th and 17th centuries. This was a significant period in the history of the city, as this was when it acquired the administrative and military functions that would define its future evolution.

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Both similar to utensils and furniture in colonial America

The museum is a wonderful old stone building of a half-dozen floors.  The brochure says the building is the same site as the original home, but not the original building. 

The site the museum is built on is the same site where María Pita’s family owned a house in the 16th century. It was originally the property of the heroine’s first husband, Juan Alonso de Rois, who inherited it from his grandmother. When her husband died, the house came into the hands of their daughter, María Alonso de Rois, although her mother and guardian, María Pita, lived there in usufructure.  I don’t know if usufructure is a word but usufructuary is and it’s what you might have guessed from reading the sentence.   Usufructuary Rights : A Civil Law term referring to the right of one individual to use and enjoy the property of another, provided its substance is neither impaired nor altered. http://www.google.com/

The museum is open Tuesday to Saturday from 10:30 to 14:00 and 17:30 to 20:00, Sundays and bank holidays from 10:30 to 14:00. It is closed on Mondays. http://www.coruna.es/

Drake and La Coruña, Spain  (Drake who is not the hero here as he is in England as you can well imagine.)

Michael Turner  http://www.indrakeswake.co.uk

  Drake was off the coast of Spain in 1589 leading an English Armada to vanquish the remaining Spanish ships that had made it home, after being battered by storms off the rocky coasts of Scotland and Ireland.

   Drake captured the lower town and was repulsed at the upper walled town. The queen had not supplied the siege gun and the mines had not been effective, against such solid walls. Even the casual visitor to La Coruña cannot avoid learning about María Pita.  Squares and streets bear her name, and signs direct the visitor to her house. In an era when it was more of a man’s world, she inspired the inhabitants to stand their ground during the peak of the battle. Perhaps Drake was never aware that one of his most formidable adversaries was a woman!

Hymn To María Pita

On the horizon

A fleet, enemy ships

Advances in iron formation.

Bugles are sounding

Bells are ringing

To the city walls!

To repulse the invasion!

The cannons spew shrapnel

The enemy attacks ferociously

Smashing down the defendants

Who lose their life and become worthless.

Within the city walls

In the blood and fire

Amongst the dead

You are searching for

The body of a beloved husband

The invader has just killed.

Tears of blood

The sword in your hand

You run towards the enemy shouting

"Women, children! We all must fight!

Oust the invader from our city!"

This exploit has passed into history

A woman and a city

María Pita and La Coruña

Already united forever, say freedom

Always united, they say freedom

María Pita and her city.

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Isabel Sendales y Gomez another A Coruña heroine.

I am reading Saving the World by Julia Alvarez which was recommended by our Lake Charbot friend Linda.  Half of the story revolves around the role Isabel Sendales y Gomez plays in the Balmis expedition to eradicate small pox in the Spanish colonies.  The expedition began here in La Coruña in 1803.  A statue was erected to celebrate the 200th anniversary but the plaque makes no mention of Isabel. 

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Doctor Balmis and two of the orphans who were live carriers of the small pox vaccine.

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“ FRANCISCO XAVIER BALMIS (1753–1819). Born in Alicante, Spain, Balmis was a physician and army surgeon (physician to King Charles IV as of 1795) and a pioneer in international vaccination. In 1781, 1791, 1795, and 1798, Balmis travelled to America to collect plants; while there, he studied plant remedies for venereal diseases, having published the Tratado de las virtudes del agave y la begonia in 1794. Balmis first translated into Spanish the Traité historique et pratique de la vaccine (Tratado histórico y práctico de la vacuna) by French physician Jacques Louis Moreau de La Sarthe. The Spanish version included a foreword by Balmis himself that added and clarified information contained in the book. When it was decided that an expedition, the Real Expedición Filantrópica de la Vacuna (Royal Philanthropic Expedition of the Vaccine), would be set up to spread smallpox vaccination into all of the overseas Spanish territories, Balmis was appointed its commander. On November 30, 1803, the corvette Maria Pita left the Spanish harbor of La Coruña, with the expedition team: Balmis, Antonio Salvany (second in command), three surgeons, two first-aid practitioners, four male nurses, 22 children from the Casa de Expósitos (orphanage) of La Coruña, and Isabel Sendales y Gómez, the rectoress of the orphanage, who was charged with taking care of the children. These children were the initial carriers of the smallpox vaccine: sequentially vaccinated arm to arm every 9–10 days, they were a living chain of transmission. Other children in the countries where the expedition stopped became part of that chain. The journey around the world took almost four years and can be considered as the first global vaccination campaign. [See: García de los Ríos JE, Jiménez Gómez PA (2005) Bicentenario de la expedición Balmis de la vacuna (1803-06). Actualidad SEM”   http://www.im.microbios.org/00covers/37backcovermarch07.htm

Julia Alvarez, author of Saving the World has this to say on her website: “Lots of good books have been published in commemoration of the Royal Smallpox Expedition’s bicentennial, 1803-2003. The problem is that most of them are in Spanish! (Most of these Spanish studies of the expedition are listed in the Acknowledgments at the end of Saving the World.)

There are two excellent studies in English. One is a long article by Michael Smith, "The ‘Real Expedición Marítima de la Vacuna’ in New Spain and Guatemala," which appeared in Transactions of the American Philosophical Society (Volume 64, Part I, 1974). I was able to obtain a copy through my college’s interlibrary loan department. (If everyone writes in to the APS, they might reprint that article.) The second study I recommend is Catherine Mark’s English translation of Gonzalo Díaz de Yraola’s The Spanish Royal Philanthropic Expedition: The Round-the-World Voyage of the Smallpox Vaccine, 1803-1810 (La vuelta al mundo de la expedición de la vacuna, 1803-1810), a facsimile of the 1948 edition (Madrid: Instituto de Historia, Consejo Superior de Investigaciones Científicas, 2003, ISBN 84-00-08172-2).”

http://saving-the-world.juliaalvarez.com/suggested-reading.php

Picasso in A Coruna

Hola,

  The bar just an arm’s reach from our finger pier plays the best music, at a really reasonable volume from about 6pm until 9pm.  Perfecto!!!!

I went off exploring today.  Randal worked on the boat.  So what else is new?

Ru

          The Picasso Family in A Coruña  and Messing Around on Boats….

  Living on a boat because you like to travel is like working in a library because you like to read….  Way too much of Randal’s time is spent figuring out how to get us from place to place and then doing boat repairs when we get there.  Travel is sandwiched in between those two tasks.  When you work in a library, you read book reviews, order books, process books, look up the location of books or other information on the library shelves or computer or microfilm reader and hand them to other people to read.  Away from the library is when you actually have time to read.   While I was out and about today having a wonderful time exploring A Coruña, Randal spent the day dealing with dirty fuel issues.  Yesterday morning we returned to the Pombo shop to collect the exorbitantly expensive fuel filters Randal had ordered and in the afternoon the AIS/GPS repair guy came with one new part and lots of good skill.  That also was exorbitantly expensive, but absolutely necessary as it not only fixed our problem but corrected the jerry-rigged set up the original AIS installers had done in Hong Kong that never worked until we got to Singapore years later and those guys and Randal made it work.  Now, thanks to the skill of Raul Martinez Lijό Gerente from NAUELEC  www.nauelec.com both the AIS and GPS are working correctly!  Hurrah!!!  The folks at Pombo had suggested Raul and the folks at the marina had called him for us.  Pombo had tracked down a supplier for the fuel filters too so everyone here has been really helpful even though the cost of items is double what we’d pay at home. 

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Raul and Randal

Picasso

There are free tours offered through the A Coruña Tourist Office and Randal and I luckily managed to get a spot on the “Picasso’s Town” tour.  Our tour leader was half knowledgeable guide, half actor so the 90 minute walking tour was very entertaining.  60 minutes were in Spanish and 30 in English as the Spanish explanations seemed to be twice as long as those in English.  Of the 30 participants, only 6 of us were English speakers, all from the United States and the other 4 who were not Randal and I, spoke some Spanish. 

When we first met our tour leader…

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Tour Guide:  Where are you from?

Me: America.

Tour Guide: Columbia?

Me:  North America

Tour Guide?

Me United States, Virginia….

In Asia if I said United States folks didn’t understand until I said America.  But in countries with ties to other North American countries : Central, Latin, or South American, one has to be careful not to claim all of that territory for us. 

Our guide asked more questions later and Randal fed me all kinds of wrong information making me look really REALLY DUMB.  First Randal told me the wrong year the Picasso’s came to A Coruña which I couldn’t remember.  Worse, our guide was talking about the Scotsman General Sir John Moore who was sent to help the Spanish against the Emperor Napoleon, and asked us to guess his age.  I thought he meant Moore’s age so when Randal told me 47 that’s what I said.  Turns out we were supposed to be guessing the age of  Eusebio da Guarda, our guide’s persona (or really the guide’s age ) which was 44!  Nothing like telling someone they look older than they are.  Randal is hysterical for the next 10 minutes or so when the guide is talking but amazingly I’m holding it together really embarrassed that I’d told our guide he looked old!  When we started to walk along again I ran up to the guide and told him I thought he’d asked how old Moore was at the time and Randal had made a guess that I’d offered.  Duh!  Randal did give him a 20 Euro tip at the end for putting up with us. 

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Eusebio da Guarda is the persona of our tour guide.

In real life de Guarda was the patron of the School of Fine Arts and the High School were Picasso began to study art at the age of 10.  I believe his father also taught there which is why they were in A Coruña among other reasons.

It is still in use as a secondary school

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Picasso House and Museum

Most of the artwork is reproductions so it’s really the house that’s of interest.   And the tour is just as much the history of A Coruña during the years 1891 to  1895 as it is about Picasso.  The Theater where he saw plays and which was the first building to have electricity.  The pharmacy owned by the father of his first love, Lola, the subject of the barefoot girl painting.  A chocolate shop as A Coruña is famous for chocolate though neither Randal nor I can remember why.

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Probably not the actual paint brushes and palettes used by Picasso but inspiring anyway.

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Small dining room

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Truth or Myth

The man in the framed painting is Doctor Pérez Costales physician to and family friend of the Picassos.  The photograph is of the richest man in A Coruña at the time.  He owned an umbrella store, now a shop not far from the Old Town.  The  rumor was that the doctor, who was also a politician and big man about town, was the umbrella shop owner’s real father. 

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Authentic sketches: framed and under glass.

Boris and Natasha from the Bulwinkle show could be mistaken for a Picasso sketch

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Picasso with his family

http://www.theartwolf.com/articles/picasso-coruna-en.htm

“However, there is a stage in the life of Pablo Picasso that remains, at least for the general public, as unknown, a sort of loophole in the popular career of the great genius of the visual arts of the twentieth century: his brief but decisive period in A Coruña, Galicia, Spain (1891-1895), a key time in the artist’s formation”

This website seems to match what we heard on the tour and seems to have more info than any other I found that was in English.  I don’t know if it was my imagination or wishful thinking but if our guide had been speaking more slowly I might have understood more of what he said in Spanish.  But he only had 90 minutes and we had many stops along the way, each with a long story ( Spanish version) and the gist of it version for those of us limited to English.  But then I can’t say I’ve ever been on a tour in the US where it was given in any language other than English. 

Randal and I had walked to Pombo in the morning to pick up the fuel filters that turned out not to be there yet and then walked back to Old Town to have lunch and meet the tour and then walked most of the way back to Pombo to get to the Picasso House so by the end of the tour we were pretty pooped.  And we still had to go to the grocery store so the museum shop got short shrift.  I did see postcards of the famous Picasso Don Quixote print that everyone had once upon a time and the hand holding flowers.  Brought back memories of many many years ago in the 60s! 

Two unrelated stories and more Coruna photos

Hola,

  Today was a really nice day but also a kinda disappointing day.   The fuel filters Randal had ordered really hadn’t been delivered so we have to return to Pombo to get them tomorrow, hopefully; and the GPS/AIS repair guy who was to come at 3:30 pm today still isn’t here at 6:32 pm.  Maybe the part he needed didn’t come on time either.  The nice part was we went on a very entertaining Picasso walk through Coruña with a led by a very knowledgeable guide from the A Coruña Tourist Office.  Most of the 30 folks (30 is the limit so it was full up) were Spanish speaking so our guide had to repeat everything for Randal and me and the 3 women from Maryland and the guy from Washington though I think they all understood some Spanish.  The English version was shorter but just as good because Randal and I were thoroughly entertained.  I’d expected more time at the Picasso family home but, hey, the 90 minute tour was free so no complaints at all.   And I made a return trip to the Plaza of Humor on my way for groceries.

  There’s so much to see here; just walking up and down the streets with their enticing shops is fun.  Much better than walking in a mall.  The weather gods are going to keep us here maybe another week or more so we’ll get to see more of A Coruña, the silver lining in the cloud of delay.

Ru

Ps  glad lots of you liked the “ladies” as much as I did

 

Two Stories and more Coruña photos

When we were leaving La Liῆea/Gibraltar we heard over our VHF radio what to me was a funny exchange.  If you can call a breach of international law funny.  Thankfully this was only an exchange of words and nothing more.  I don’t remember the exact wording, but here is the gist of it. They weren’t  speaking to us….though friends Ed and Sue on Angel Louise had a VHF run in with the Brits while entering Gibraltar unannounced.  DoraMac was never that close to Gibraltar to have a problem. 

“This is British Naval Ship, you are entering British waters; please identify yourself and state your purpose. “

Silence

“This is British Naval Ship, you are entering British waters; please identify yourself and state your purpose. “

More Silence

“This is British Naval Ship, you are entering British waters; please identify yourself and state your purpose.  Not responding is a violation of International Law Code……..and your actions will be reported to….”

“Whose waters?” or something that sounded like that.

“This is British Naval Ship, you are entering British waters; please identify yourself and state your purpose.  Not responding is a violation of International Law Code……..and your actions will be reported to….”

“Is this a recording?”

We never did find out what happened but Spain and Britain are definitely having a war of words over Gibraltar.  Gibraltar had begun to rigidly check all boats in its waters to prevent Spanish fishermen in Gibraltar Bay.  In response Spain was doing exceedingly slow border checks backing traffic up back into Gibraltar.  It’s hard for me to believe that most of those stuck in the traffic leaving Gibraltar weren’t Spanish, but I really don’t know.  The Brits divided the normally one way traffic into two lanes Gibraltar so that the red border bus could still drive back and forth from the Spanish border to the bus station at Market Square which was all we needed.

    Other story, a marina dryer dispute I found much less funny (and really much less important) but makes me more sympathetic/empathetic with the frustrated British Naval Ship Captain.  It involves a French woman yelling at me for removing her laundry from the dryer.  I’d gone to the laundry room and the dryer was running so I sat and waited.  It stopped and no one came to take it out  The dryer was set for 30 minutes on what you could tell was synthetics but  had been stuffed with heavy cotton towels among way too much other stuff.  I opened the dryer to remove the wash but everything was still wet.   I didn’t want to restart the dryer with stuff in it because who knows, maybe something would get too dry and be ruined.   So as the dryer had been stopped for at least 10 minutes, I took the stuff in it out and put mine in.  My laundry had been in the dryer 20 minutes set on algodόn which I’d figured was cotton when SHE came in and yelled at me…in French while I was trying to explain to her…in English… that I’d waited for hers to finish and then waited for her to show up.  As I’d no clue whose laundry it was and the marina office was closed, I’d taken the stuff out and put mine in rather than sit around forever waiting for someone, apparently her, to show up.  She kept yelling “not possible, not possible.”  Anyway, she shoved her wet stuff into a bag and stormed away in a huff.  The previous day I’d had to remove laundry from the dryer but it was dry and I folded it neatly and I think it was hers too as I think I recognized the bag.  Funny enough when I’d gone to get my laundry that day she was there telling the marina man something was wrong with the washer so maybe it spins poorly and that’s why hers didn’t dry.  I know it took mine forever and our washer spins really well.   Happily her boat left the marina and the sun is supposed to shine all weekend so I can hang the laundry out!

Now more A Coruῆa photos.

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Boys will be boys # 1  Looking at construction and big machines, along the walkway from the marina.

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Randal thinks they’re planning to put up a building, but we don’t know.

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Heading off to the “effectos navales” for some naval supply shops.

This is the opposite direction from the “old town” so  there’s a mix of old and new.

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The building on the right I think is a mall, maybe supposed to be shaped like a ship?  Or it’s part of the convention center.  There are too many “down town” shops to make a mall appealing.

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Boys will be boys # 2

Randal saw first and by the time I realized what was happening, this was the only shot I got.  We’d both actually thought the man with the ear protectors had been teaching the other man how to use the blower.  And maybe he was, but somehow he turned it into a performance for Randal and me.  Spanish folks are really quite warm and friendly here as they were in La Liῆea.

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Darning needle for fishing nets.

  I bought one just like it, just a bit smaller, when we were in China.  Mine is smooth wood and I’ve no idea what I’ll do with it.  I just liked the shape. 

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Pombo

The people in this shop are very helpful and we seem to visit them about every other day.

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Lost in translation.

On the way home from the boat supply side of town, I suggested we forego our regular place across from the marina with the English menu option for something more local.   I had a dictionary and the waiter had a computer translator but this doesn’t look like 3 tortillas to me.  We ordered one cheese, one tuna, and one chorizo.  When he asked if we wanted the Spanish or French version, we opted for the Spanish though he then mentioned something about potato being part of it.  I think spices had something to do with the French version.  Randal just wanted food, so it was, okay, whatever.  There was enough food for 4 people so we went home with lots.  The yellow things, not cheese, are pretty good and do have potato in them; and egg and cheese.  We had them for dinner with vegetables and beans. 

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Can you tell from just the shape that this is John Lennon?

We went back out in the afternoon as I wanted to visit the library which closed from 2 until 3 pm.  Randal came with me, but as even I was confused about things, he decided to go back to the boat.  I stayed for a bit and looked at an art book about Picasso in preparation for our Picasso in A Coruῆa tour the next day.  Then I walked around old town for a bit before returning to DoraMac and catching “the Ladies” wading in the water.

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I love these knockers and if I see one in a shop might have to get it.  The one on top has so much detail you can see the fingernails.  I wish I could see inside its building because it is so “old city.” We did get to visit the Picasso family home which was in a tall narrow building so maybe that will have to do.  (But that’s another story.)

I first encountered Plaza del Humor on my way home from the big grocery store.  I had no clue it was a permanent “exhibit” or if it was graffiti. But the next day Randal and I took a look on our way to and from the grocery store which was when I noticed the sign below.  Unfortunately a quick Internet search hasn’t turned up much to explain the genius behind the idea and some of the names have been worn down so much that I really need to go back just to look at everything really hard to see who all is there.  Some folks I recognized but many I didn’t.  Like the guy below who I know is not Jimmy Durante.

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“Plaza del Humor or Humor Square is a tiny theme square dedicated to many different characters throughout history that had a remarkable sense of comedy of humor. The pavement of this square display images of many of this characters, such as Chaplin, Laurel and Hardy, Groucho Marx, Moliere, Aristoteles and even Shakespeare. Some of them are also Galician writers and artist that may not be known by many people.” http://www.cosmotourist.com/travel-tip/73184/a-coruna/plaza-del-humor/historic-comedy-characters-in-a-square/

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Fred and Barney are here Pedro and Pablo! I wonder if their last names stayed the same.  Every time I saw ruins in Turkey I thought of “Barney Rubble.”  And when I was 3 years old I played Mae West at a summer hotel our parents visited in Lebanon, CT called Grand Lake Lodge.  I remember losing a tooth, learning to float, and playing May West. I think I also hated it because I’m not good around kids I don’t know.  Our parents took part in some of the theater activities too. , I remember my father played a bride in some crazy production….if my memory is correct.  Har, you remember?   God knows how they got me to do the Mae West thing except at 3 you just do stuff.  So embarrassing to even think about it. And worse there are photos to prove it.

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Socrates, Aresop and Pug

On my way back from the grocery store (camera-less so I could carry more groceries) I saw Laurel and Hardy and Oscar Wilde among others.

 

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The mom told the boys to get off the head so they climbed on his leg; but it is meant to be sat on anyway.  Not sure who it is, but it will be fun finding out. 

Though it’s the Plaza del Humor I don’t think it’s so funny that I don’t know half of these famous folks, but I do know Pedro and Pablo. 

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Reference Reading Room

The staff in the library pooled their limited English, more than my non-existent Spanish, to explain that the circulating books were closed shelved but they could get them for me.  I really just wanted to browse the watercolor books so that wouldn’t work.  I was shown the upstairs reference/magazine area but they really were just reference books; most in Spanish and few with pictures.  Here I have the small book on Picasso’s Blue Period and my trusty dictionary.  I’m guessing I should try to find the municipal library that I think exists if I want a browsing collection.  

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I want to read this magazine just because I love the cover.

They do have Time and Newsweek , the London Times and WSJ in English in the magazine section so I’ll probably go back to visit as it’s just 5 minutes away.

Forever Friends!

Hola,

On my way into the marina just at the small boat landing I saw these two women and  I fell in love with them.  Hopefully when I’m their age, I won’t give a hoot either!

Ru

 

Warning   by Jenny Joseph

When I am an old woman I shall wear purple

With a red hat which doesn’t go, and doesn’t suit me.

And I shall spend my pension on brandy and summer gloves

And satin sandals, and say we’ve no money for butter.

I shall sit down on the pavement when I’m tired

And gobble up samples in shops and press alarm bells

And run my stick along the public railings

And make up for the sobriety of my youth.

I shall go out in my slippers in the rain

And pick flowers in other people’s gardens

And learn to spit.

You can wear terrible shirts and grow more fat

And eat three pounds of sausages at a go

Or only bread and pickle for a week

And hoard pens and pencils and beermats and things in boxes.

But now we must have clothes that keep us dry

And pay our rent and not swear in the street

And set a good example for the children.

We must have friends to dinner and read the papers.

But maybe I ought to practice a little now?

So people who know me are not too shocked and surprised

When suddenly I am old, and start to wear purple.

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Zoom in on the face of the woman in black and look at her smile!clip_image013