Pilos Part 2 the Fortress visit

10 pm

Buongiorno,

  This is part 2 of the  Pilos emails and the final one, for now, about Greece.

Ru

Pilos Fortress

In my previous email I quoted the Which Guide that Cervantes had been imprisoned in the Fortress at Pilos.   Below is the only other information I could find.  I do know he was captured and ransomed by his family.  However, there is a really old castle and then this newer castle and Cervantes might have been a prisoner at the other castle in Methoni whereas we visited the castle in Pilos. 

As a side note, let’s add that Miguel de Cervantes Saavedra, the author of Don Quixote, fought at Lepanto were he lost the use of his left hand "for the glory of his right," as he himself put it. He is known in the Hispanic world as the Manco de Lepanto (the One-Armed Man of Lepanto).

http://www.aloverofvenice.com/VeniceEast/VeniceEast.html

Bradt Greece: The Peloponnese – Page 152 – Google Books Result

“famous visitors to Methoni during the Ottoman occupation was Cervantes, the … We can presume that he didn’t enjoy it much, as he was a galley slave at the time. … They tore down the old town, which was then mostly within the fortress walls.” http://books.google.it/

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Photo taken when we entered the bay going towards the small harbor.

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Randal was fascinated with this modern medieval door, beautiful and functional.

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I liked climbing the rampart on the walls

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Inner fortress doors

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Part of the octagonal center

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Walk overlooking the entrance to the bay

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Jail cells used during its time as a prison in the 19th and 20th century. 

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Anchors away!

I cannot imagine having to pull up that anchor!  Not that we pull ours up by hand, the mechanical windless does that.  But cruising friends have “pull up by hand” anchors and that must be a real chore.

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No “No Photo” sign so I took some with the museum setting  until I was told by the “person in charge” No Photos.  But she was very nice and I’d already taken some, so it worked out. 

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There were tiny fish swimming around in this aquarium display.

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A floor level exhibit showing sunken ships in different color dots.

Jacques Cousteau was involved with some of the excavations. 

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Memorial with the date 1944 and the names of soldiers.

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The mosque that became a church now being refurbished.

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Leaving the fortress: our 3 Euro (x2) tickets were quite worth it.  There was a group of school kids coming in as we were leaving.  I don’t know if our timing was perfect or if we really missed out watching the kids “play fort.”

Ios part 3

Same chair, same restaurant, same cup of tea

Yasas

   Here’s the final email about Ios and the next to last one about Greece.  But that one will have to wait for Sicily unless the weather turns bad and we stay here one more day.  If you don’t hear from me tomorrow, it will be in 3 or 4 days from now in Sicily.

Ru

Gialos Harbor and  Island Path

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DoraMac in the small harbor of Gialos taken from the ferry to Santorini

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Looking back from my walk along the island path; we’re right in the harbor town much too near the bakery which is the shop with the brown oblong sign.  They make great “real” donuts and giant gingerbread cookies.

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Entrance to the Gialos Harbor on Ios.

I walked to the church and found a path that lead along the coast.

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The blue coastguard/police station with very helpful staff

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Stone stairway to the church

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Looking back to the harbor from the church patio entrance; very lovely spot

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The path looked as if it went a good distance around the island.

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Crystal clear water

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Looking back at the church and the hills of Ios

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Lots of yellow and purple to add color to pathway

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Making myself walk back to town; I could have stayed out for hours but Randal would have sent out the police wondering if I’d fallen off the cliff edge.

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Off to find Homer’s Tomb

Still the 4 Seasons Restaurant

Yasas

  When you start on your journey to Ithaca…. Homer didn’t write those words, CP Cavafy did.  But Homer did write about Ithaca so we went off to see his tomb.  Or his supposed tomb.  Homer was supposedly buried at sea but washed up on Ios. 

Ru

  Homer’s Tomb

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Decadent donut for breakfast from the bakery across the way.

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We rented a small motorbike that sounded like a lawnmower but it got us up and down the steep hillsides of Ios.

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Homer’s Tomb

“Setting off from the port or from Chora, by motorbike or by car, you make your way up to Pano Kambos, a fertile valley rich with vineyards and olive trees, and to Koulida.  From there, if you leave the asphalt road and take the path branching off to the left, you’ll be heading to the amazing beach of Plakoto.

    Some metres short of that, there’s another path that leads to the ancient ruins dating from the Hellenistic period, where tradition claims that the tomb of the poet Homer lies. On your way back, you can also drive to Aghia Theodoti bay. Limpid waters and a sandy beach, taverns and rented rooms, as well as the occasion to admire the 16th century church of St. Theodoti, the oldest on the island, built in the 16th century”

 http://www.iosgreece.com/homer_ios

The tomb of Homer sight can be found on the Northern part of Ios island above the bay of Plakoto. Concerning the true existance of Homer’s tomb on the island of Ios there are numerous reports from ancient historians and sightseers. Further supporting the claims are the reports claiming that Homer’s mother was born in Ios island.

As an ancient sign states there is an ancient coin found in Ios island with Homer’s profile engraved on it as well as a month from the ancient Ios’ calendar named after him. You will find the tomb of Homer sight on the hill of Psathopirgos, as the locals refer to, which as archaelogists report was a tower from the Hellenistic Period . http://www.iosinfo.gr/

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Randal had a black marker and was going to color in the washed out letters but I wouldn’t let him…

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Lots of bee hives off in the distance and we could also hear goat bells

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Looking back  at the tomb from seaside.

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Sadly, not such an impressive tomb for such an impressive person in history

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Stone piles left by visitors…and a small one left by me

 

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Walking back to the motorbike

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Looking back towards Gialos port

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Agia Theodoti beach on the far side of the island

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Modern day windmills

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Back in Gialos and I couldn’t resist this woman reading and I like her shoes.

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Eating utensils are served in the bread basket which I like a lot.

Ios part 1 Chora Village

Yasas,

  We’re at the 4 Seasons Restaurant using their wifi.  I’m going to catch up with the Ios emails before we leave tomorrow for Sicily which will take at least 2 nights.  We did an overnighter from Ios here and skipped Milos.  We meat two very nice young men, Ben and Thomas who are traveling around Greece on their small sailboat.   http://cresthawkadventure.blogspot.gr/   They helped catch our lines, came for some beer later in the afternoon and spent a nice time chatting with them.  Today we explored the old fort in Pilos and now we’re doing the café thing for lunch and wifi.

Anyway, here’s the story about Ios in 3 parts.

Ru

Ios Chora Town

I wish we’d had one more day on Ios.  Boat work took Randal’s time our one full afternoon so he never was able to explore Chora Village.  Both of us were happy as to how we spent the time we did have; it’s just more would have been nice.  But the wind and waves dictated that we go on our way while the forecast was good.  At times the forecast only has to be “good enough” of you’d spend all of your time waiting around.  So we saw what we saw; and here’s what that was.

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View of Chora from the main road (from our motorbike the following day.)

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From the harbor there’s a stairway that takes you to up the hillside to Chora

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Randal started with me, but his heart wasn’t in it; and his heel spur was bothering him so I went on alone.

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No problem if you get tired or thirsty along the way; you pass several bars and cute B&B’s

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First landmark where the walking path crosses the road to town; hard to miss

Evangelismos Cathedral (Ευαγγελισμός)

The striking cathedral of Evangelismos in the centre of the main village of Chora is one of the main iconic sights you will see in Ios.

The cathedral is painted in the traditional Cycladic white with blue roofs. It was originally named Ayios Nikolaos then renamed to Evangelismos.

Next to the cathedral is a small church called Ayios Ioannis Prodromos.

The majority of the shops, restaurants, cafes, bars and nightclubs lie just behind the cathedral

http://www.loveiosgreece.com/evangelismos-cathedral-ios.html

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The church is the orange oblong to the right of the word port on the dotted line road. 

The B was obviously put there to welcome me.

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A small café just near the church with a path leading into the labyrinth of lanes.

I was told pretty much nothing opens before 5 pm so most everything was this empty.

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Ios was charming and yuppie and local and quaint and artsy; at least the part I saw on my walk.

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Could be Provincetown; but it’s Ios.

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An everything shop that catered to locals and tourists so was open.

I splurged on a bookmark with blue doors and pink flowers and some paper napkins with an olive pattern that looks like our N. Cyprus olive patterned pottery.

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Another small square with a church

Across from the church were a few tables and chairs and lots of doorways where I saw mostly older local men sitting and socializing.  I took the path to the left of the church though had no clue where the sign told me I was going; but it didn’t matter really.

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Pro-Cycladic settlement at Skarkos.

“Here the largest and now most important known settlement of the procycladic world of the middle of the 3rd millennium BC were discovered.”  Ios Island Map

This is all we saw of it but from the distance it looks quite impressive.

Pre-historic Settlement of Skarkos

    Skarkos is an award-winning archaeological site. The project was awarded the 2008 EU Prize for Cultural Heritage / Europa Nostra Top Prize for Conservation, for the ‘outstanding quality of conservation work and above all the minimal and extremely sensitive character of the interventions, having no detrimental impact on a unique landscape’.

     The site was excavated from 1984 to 1997 by the XXI Ephorate of Prehistoric and Classical Antiquities – the regional service of the Hellenic Ministry of Culture responsible for the Cyclades. The excavations found an important Early Bronze Age settlement from the mid-3rd millennium BC which had been exceptionally well-preserved.

     Skarkos is circular in shape, most of the buildings are 3/4 meters high, and 2 storeys. There is evidence of stone-paved floors, a drainage system and a late Middle/early Late Bronze Age cemetery (mid-2nd millennium BC). There are also many examples of pottery, kitchen utensils and work tools made from metal, stone and bone, many of which are housed in the Archaeological Museum in the Town Hall in the main village of Chora.

The settlement can be found in the north side of Ios port. It is open to the public and there are two entrances to the site, one suitable for wheelchair users. http://www.loveiosgreece.com/skarkos.html

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Windmills

Windmills are one of the signature icons of the Cyclades, and Ios Island has 12 traditional windmills. In the past the windmills would have been used to grind barley and wheat to make bread.

The windmills are set in 2 rows on either side of the hill overlooking Chora, however only 3 have been restored.  The rest have been worn by the weather, but it is hoped that they will be restored in the future too.   The charming windmills are a must-see for anyone visiting Ios.

To get to the windmills, walk east through the village of Chora. You get a great view of the village and the Aegean Sea.  http://www.loveiosgreece.com/ios-windmills.html

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While I was taking a photo this man’s pals started to heckle him (me?) but as it was in Greek, we’ll never know and I just took the photo, smiled at the man and walked away.

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I think this row was named for its proximity to the windmills rather than that they were once mills, my original guess.  But I still don’t know.

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Party town after 5 pm

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And of course cats

Ios Chora or Ios Town is the main and only real village of Ios, built on the western side of the island, twenty minutes walk from the Town port. It is a real jewel, built amphitheatrically and shimmering under the sun.

It easily charms everyone with its little cube houses with flat-roofed houses and its narrow stone paved streets winding like a labyrinth of white lines traditionally painted around the large flat stones; arches and arcades are merging from a street or between two houses and contribute to the creation of a wonderful and magical atmosphere.

In this typical Cycladic village, one of the most beautiful town in the entire Cyclades, visitors will find many hotels, pensions, rooms for rent, restaurants, fine jewellery, gift and souvenir shops, mini markets and a great amount of bars and night clubs.

To enjoy the beauty and charms of Chora, it is better to wander around its magical streets during day-light hours, when most of the crowd is lying on the beaches, the bars closed and the locals out of their houses.

The breathtaking view from Panaghia Gremiotissa, the highest spot of the village, is worth seeing and truly unforgettable, especially during the amazing sunset. Behind the beautiful whitewashed windmills is the outdoor amphitheatre  Odysseas Elytis (a famous Greek poet), where some concerts and plays are performed during summer.

The ruins of the Venetian castle which lie on the top of the hill and look over the village, are also very interesting to see. Despite the great amount of tourists and the frenetic nightlife, Chora has kept its traditional character and colours, as it has been proclaimed a preserved settlement.

http://www.greeka.com/cyclades/ios/ios-villages/ios-chora.htm

Sightseeing at its peak: My humble apologies if the headline led you to think this particular blog post is about having a good time on Ios while doing illicit drugs! It’s completely understandable if that’s what you assumed, especially considering that Ios has a notorious worldwide reputation as one of the top summer party destinations in the Mediterranean (if not all of Europe, for that matter).

By “getting high on Ios,” I’m actually referring to something totally different: hiking up hills and mountains to enjoy the amazing island views and scenery, and get a natural, physical high.

I got partying out of my system during my university days, so bars, nightclubs, beach parties and boozing it up don’t interest me much anymore. And since I can’t stand being in tightly crowded places, you won’t catch me cramming into Cavo Paradiso or the Space club on Mykonos to join thousands of other people listening and dancing while top DJs from around the world spin music all night long.  So why, then, do I even bother going to a so-called “party island” like Mykonos, Ios or Kos in the first place?

Ios is more than just a “party island”

That’s a question I get asked all the time, and my answer is simple: those islands have a lot more to offer besides a thriving social scene. In fact, there isn’t much partying on any of those islands in the spring, which is when we usually visit Greece. If partying is your prime reason for travelling to the Greek Islands, you’ve got to go during July and August, which also happens to be high travel season — the busiest and most expensive time of year to travel in Europe. Many island bars and clubs aren’t even open in May, and the wild beach and club parties you may have heard about generally don’t start before mid- to late June. Until then, the bar scene is rather tame. And come September, once younger travellers have returned to college or university, the party atmosphere quickly dissipates, giving way to a relaxed, mellow vibe that lingers until the tourist season draws to a close in early autumn.

Spring and September are perfect for non-party activities, and sightseeing and hiking are two of our favourites. Actually, hiking is the only way to take in some of the spectacular scenery on islands like Ios because many of the best viewpoints are situated at the tops of hills and mountains that are accessible only on foot (or by donkey, if that’s what you happen to be driving).

Great vantage points abound

At Chora, the main village on Ios, two of the top places to check out the views are from the peaks on the south and north sides of town. The south hill is a short, easy hike above the village, while the peak to the north — the steep rocky mountain crowned by four picturesque churches — is a tougher climb, up dozens of thigh-burning stone steps and along sloping dirt paths. Both points are ideal places to watch a sunset or just enjoy aerial views of the village, surrounding valleys, and the port, harbour and beach area of Gialos.

The top of the hill east of Chora offers two more terrific spots for taking in the scenery while getting some fresh air and exercise. One excellent lookout point is the Giannis Gaitis-Gavriella Simosi Museum of Modern Arts, a huge modern museum & gallery space that opened in 2008 to display work by the late artist Yiannis Gaitis and his wife, but has apparently been sitting vacant ever since. (At least, that’s what several locals told us, and we certainly didn’t see any artwork when we peered through dusty windows into the cavernous empty rooms inside.) From both the big terrace outside the museum and from its wide, flat roof (you can climb a flight of stairs to get up there),  you’ll enjoy panoramic views of Chora and nearby Sikinos island to the west. A short walk away is the 1,100-seat outdoor Theatre of Odysseas Elytis, which faces the opposite direction, and offers breathtaking views of Mylopotas beach and bay far below.

http://mygreecetravelblog.com/2012/02/23/getting-high-on-ios/

Ios – The island

Ios Greece or "Little Malta" as it’s called by sailors because its port is protected from the wind.

Ios is one of the southernmost Cycladic islands . The highest mountain is Pirgos, 713m in height, located in the center of the island. The warmest months are July and August (average temperature 28C). although due to the northerly wind called the Meltemi, Ios weather is pleasantly cool.

And there you are, leaning upon the bulwark gazing at the natural harbor of the Aegean and the second most popular area on the island, Ormos,known as Yialos among locals. At the marina, traditional fish boats are leaving for the open sea in the morning and in the evening, fishermen are coming back with their nets full.

Chora, which is situated right next to Ormos, is a typical island town, with Cycladic whitewashed houses that contrast with the blue sky, winding narrow stone paved streets leading to chapels, windmills, and yards. If you take a walk in the evening hours, you will find out that the three main squares are so  overcrowded that you may lose your way in the small side streets. The windmills, on the slope above Chora, offer you another good excuse to show off your new camera.

History

According to the tradition,Ios Greece is believed to be the homeland of Homer’s mother, while it is speculated that the great poet died and was buried here.

The island was emigrated by Ions and later became a part of the Athenian Alliance. In the beginning of the 13th century, Ios Greece was conquered by the Venetians who built the castle in Chora the very next century.

Chora

Exploring Chora means, first of all, walking. Choose a cool morning,wear your most comfortable shoes and get ready to set off. One hour is enough for the ones who just want to have a look at this whitewashed village, perched on the slope of the hill between the port and Mylopotas. The more demanding ones will need the whole morning to discover the hidden beauty of Chora. That’s becauseChora was built up for the sun and it’s the sun that reveals the village to the visitor or hides it from him.

To go up to Chora, just follow the wide stone steps of the old ascending road that comes from the port. On your way, right before entering the village, you will come across a part of the walls that once surrounded the ancient town. Following the same road you reach the first square of Chora. To your right stands the modern Orthodox Cathedral of the island, named Evangelismos (Annuciation) and, nearby, a church dedicated to St. Ekaterini, where in 1903 an excavation unearthed the remnants of Byzantine foundations and the ruins of an ancient temple dedicated to Apollo. Above these ruins the Christians built the Byzantine Cathedral,whose altar rests upon two of the temple’s columns.

To your right there is the marketplace and the two main roads that lead you across the village and to the square of the mills. Following the road that goes up, you reach the second square of the village, with its four cafes. On the left side coming from this square, the stone steps lead to the old castle of Chora, where the sublime church of Panaghia Gremiotissa (Our Lady of the Cliffs) is situated, built during the years of the Turkish occupation. According to one tradition, an icon of the Virgin was found among the rocks of Mylopotas’ seashore, with a lit candle standing on it. The legend has it that the inhabitants of Crete had thrown the icon in the open sea to protect it from falling to Turkish hands, and that the waves had carried it to that coast. The icon was then taken to the church of the HolyCross, but only to be found again the following morning on the same steep mountainside. When the islanders tried to build a new church for the icon, but not on the exact spot where it had been foundbecause of its inaccessibility, the foundation stones of the church kept disappearing every day in a miraculous way.

It was only then that the islanders understood that  the icon had chosen that exact spot, because it was the only one from where the dim shape of Crete could be viewed. On this piece of rough land they built the new church, known today as Gremiotissa, with its miraculous icon. A little beyond this church you can see the ruins of the castle walls and enjoy the magnificent view of the port and of Vigla. If you walk towards the northern side of the castle, you will come across the ancient walls again. On the other side of the market area, the square with the old windmills is a centre of commercial activity and a meeting place for the local festivals. Today, because of a complicated system of private ownership, the square remains undeveloped, used only as a parking space, but we hope that the efforts of the local authorities will soon pay off, so that the inhabitants and the visitors will have the opportunity to enjoy the fantastic view from a reorganised square. From the square of the mills, you can follow the narrow street that goes up to Prophitis Elias. A path of 500m., with magnificent view to Chora and to Mylopotas, leads you to the church of Prophitis Elias. In periods of water shortage, a procession with icons and banners is made along this path towards the church. http://www.ios-maganari.com/eng/ios_eng.html

 

Passage

      We will depart in the morning, Monday, for Sarucusa, Italy. It is a 313 NM passage and will take about 54 hours if we can make 6 knots. Our objective is to arrive during daylight hours so as long as we leave here by 7:00 AM and make 5 knots we will arrive before dark.
We do intend to do some touring in Sicily and may stay a week before moving on to Hammamet, Tunisia.
We’re comfortable here in Pilos but have no shore electricity or water. We can make both onboard of course so no problem. We have about 200 gallons of water onboard and our main battery bank is at 91% so we’re fine.

Sincerely,
Randal Johnson

"It is not the strongest of species that survives, or the most intelligent,
but the ones most responsive to change" – Charles Darwin

Santorini conclusion

Yasas,

   We’ve had a lovely day here on Ios and an all too short visit.  Dozens of people have arrived on the ferry but most are off to Chora Village at the top of the hill.  We like it down below in the quiet harbor.  We did motorbike to Homer’s tomb and I took a hike along the island shore while Randal worked hard changing the oil and making sure the engine was perfectly happy.  To paraphrase a famous kitchen magnet, “If the engine ain’t happy, then nobody’s happy.”  Tomorrow early we’re off to an anchorage off Milos and then a one night passage to Kefki and then another one night passage to Finikounda so probably no emails for a while.  But I think you might be in overload from me just about now so that’s probably okay.

  This email is the tale of our hotel room escape. 

Ru

Doramac

Santorini Sunset and Morning Escape

We actually arrived in Santorini just before noon on Tuesday and left Santorini at 9:20 am Wednesday; a very short visit indeed.  Santorini has wine vineyards and olive orchards and probably lots of quiet corners, but we didn’t take the time to find them.  The ferry schedule didn’t allow for that.  It was the 9:20 am ferry Wednesday or wait until afternoon Thursday.  So we made a big deal of the one sunset we had and I have lots of photos of that.  And there is a photo of the infamous door that wouldn’t open, the metal grille that Randal bent to try to reach the door handle, and the window we ultimately had to climb out from. 

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Restaurants line the rim of the hillside walk and we picked one early enough to get a good spot.  Pasta, grilled veggies, red wine (chilled?) bread and olive oil. 

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It was quite windy and as the sun went down, quite chilly.  I wish I’d worn long jeans and a wool sweater and hat!  The woman in the little sweater kept wrapping her arms around herself.  She must have been freezing.

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It was after 8 pm when I took this photo of the sun just starting to set.

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Fira changes colors reflecting the sun

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Mystery woman and Randal, though one profile photo reminded me of our pal Sharman.

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Not sure who she was but she was a great addition to my photos.

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Even in B& W

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Sunset watchers lined the walkways.

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It is said that at Oia you can actually see the sun touch the water, but we couldn’t here at Fira

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Walking back to our “room.”

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We ate an early lunch at the Terpsi Music Café where the waiter was very helpful.  We asked hotel prices along the caldera and 200 Euro was the answer, about 175 Euro more than we wanted to pay.  We were then told his boss had rooms below the café, but still with lovely views and one would be 50 Euro. 50 Euro was okay and we paid when we agreed to take the room.  No receipt or anything so maybe a little odd. Also odd when we booked our ferry tickets later in the day and the tourist officer asked our hotel and we showed thecafe’s card.  She was surprised as she’d not heard of it.  Hmm.

  It was your basic dorm room except for the balcony with the really good view and the free wifi so we took it.  It was certainly clean and good enough and a great location.  The bathroom access was out on the balcony like when we visited Charmaine and Linda at their island home and the bathroom was off the porch with a lovely view of the lake.  Take note of the steep steps, they go down, down, down.

So we came back from watching the sunset and after some work on these emails we went to sleep as we needed an early start in the morning.  Thankfully there was no coffee maker in the room or this story would have been very sad as we would have dawdled longer before trying to leave.   We had to catch the only 8 am bus from Fira to the port to catch the 9:20 am ferry back to Ios.  The only ferry that day! We woke about 6ish and got ready to leave and go find some breakfast but, alas, the hallway door wouldn’t open.  We have no idea how it had gotten locked or why we’d been given no key. Across from our room was a storage room and perhaps someone had visited it and then locked the hall door.  Randal tried everything, nothing worked; but wisely refused my suggestion to tie sheets together and climb out the window.  We banged and pounded and banged and yelled and finally woke the folks in the room further down the stairs.  Or at least one of the guests who came out but spoke no English and had no clue really what to do.  We yelled down to the donkey men when we saw them coming up the hillside.  No luck there.  Then a young oriental woman heard us and called down from the hillside path above but she spoke little English and also had no real way to help as no one was in the café to speak with.  We asked her to find the police and off she went somewhere.  Then we banged and yelled and banged and yelled and woke more guests downstairs thankfully one of them a strong young man.  He came up and was able to catch Randal who could then climb from the window.  Not only were the stairs too far to jump, but the steps were narrow and descended sharply making a broken something very possible if we’d fallen.  Then Randal and the young man both caught me, and I have to say I was really scared as it was a long way down if it hadn’t worked.  The time of our escape was 7:15 am  amazingly giving us time for a quick breakfast before boarding the bus.  The bus was on time and the ferry was on time so we had no time to spare during this crazy escapade.

  I’m honestly not sure what we would have done had the young man not been there.  Or if there had been a fire!  We were locked into that hallway with no fake TV stunt person to actually kick down the door.  Back on DoraMac I found a contact email for the café and wrote to them.  We’ll see if they answer.

   During past vacations I’ve been locked in bathrooms as have several folks I’ve spoken to recently, Jane and Collin from Hydeaway  being 2 of them.  And my college roommate Eileen and I got locked in the stairwell of the Boston John Hancock building on Bunker Hill Day and had to walk down a dozen or more floors.  And Randal and I had to let ourselves out of our pension in Istanbul but could find the correct key behind the reception desk to do that. I guess in the Eurozone  they must just expect everyone to sleep till noon.   In this situation, at the least, we might have missed the only ferry that day. The worst case scenario we would have had to use the sheet trick in case of a fire. I do remember seeing a red fire alarm pull and I think some red fire extinguishers.  I was tempted about the red fire pull but it didn’t look so much as if it would work and the consequences of it working  weren’t so much better.  The gods must have been watching over us to have that young man in the room below.  Next time we’ll think to ask for a corridor key.

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Louvered shutters did open and the windows to the left were our balcony.   One certainly wouldn’t have to worry about anyone breaking into the windows from below.  The door that wouldn’t open is to the right of the windows.  And adventure hopefully never to be repeated. 

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I call this one, “what happens on Santorini, stays on Santorini.” 

We saw these three very pleasant young men on the ferry from Santorini back to Ios.  As we were leaving I asked what part of the States they were from.  (They had no tell-tale southern, New England Brooklyn or mid-west accent that I could tell.  Actually they were from the mid-west;  they were from Chicago and were travelling before returning to work and school.

Santorini 1

Yasas,

   This morning Randal and I rented a motorbike to tour the island.  We climbed and climbed and climbed and came to Homer’s tomb.  Maybe it’s really where he is buried or maybe not.  Who is to say either way.  Ios is a lovely island filled with terraced hillsides that Randal says indicates a much larger population once lived here.  It would take that many people to build all of the terrace walls and to need all of the food those terraces would have produced.  We saw the tame landscape on Nisyros.   This afternoon we’ll bike back up the hill to Chora Village which really doesn’t come alive until 5 pm.  I walked there yesterday, up the stone steps and it was a lovely walk around the very quiet town.

   This email is about Santorini.  I have an odd set of photos as you will see.  The following Santorini email will show our catching the sunset show and our escape from the “café room hotel.”

Ru

    For Randal ferrying into the caldera was probably the highlight of our trip to Santorini.  For me it was my wonder around Fira actually finding my way back to the small beads shop I’d spied earlier in our day and then finding my way back to our “room under the café.” And watching the crowds gathered for sunset over the caldera was pretty fun too.  But after the quiet charms of Simi, Nisyros, and here in Ios harbor, we really were quite overwhelmed with the hordes of tourists swarming over Santorini.  At least 3 cruises ships were in the harbor at all times.  That’s great for folks on those ships and we had a lovely chat with two semi-retired nurses from near New Castle, England who were from one ship.  But it was too much hubbub for us and we stayed as short a time as ferry schedules would allow.

“Minor eruptions have been the norm in Greece’s earthquake record, but Santorini has bucked the trend – and with attitude – throughout history. Eruptions here were genuinely earth-shattering, and so wrenching that they changed the shape of the island several times.

Dorians, Venetians and Turks occupied Santorini, as they did all other Cycladic islands, but its most influential early inhabitants were Minoans. They came from Crete some time between 2000 and 1600 BC, and the settlement at Akrotiri dates from the peak years of their great civilisation.

The island was circular then and was called Strongili (Round One). In about 1650 BC a colossal volcanic eruption caused the centre of Strongili to sink, leaving a caldera with high cliffs – now one of the world’s most dramatic sights. Some archaeologists have speculated that this catastrophe destroyed not only Akrotiri but the structure, and eventually the essence, of Minoan civilisation

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/

“Fantastic, fabulous Santorini deserves all the superlatives. Even the most jaded traveller succumbs to the awesome drama of this surreal landscape, relic of what was probably the biggest eruption in recorded history. That you share the experience with hordes of other visitors is inevitable. Embrace it all.

The caldera and its vast curtain wall of multicoloured cliffs is truly awesome. If you want to experience the full dramatic impact it’s worth arriving by a slower ferry with open decks, rather than by enclosed catamaran or hydrofoil.

Santorini is famous for its spectacular sunsets. The village of Oia on the northern tip of the island is a hugely popular sunset viewing site because there is an uninterrupted view of the sun as it finally sinks below the horizon. From farther south down the caldera edge, the last of the setting sun can be obscured by the islands of Nea Kameni and Thirasia. Take your pick, however. You can enjoy most of the sunset from almost anywhere along the rim of the caldera, especially if you want to avoid the sometimes feverish crush at Oia.

The main port, Athinios, stands on a cramped shelf of land at the base of Sphinxlike cliffs and is a scene of marvellous chaos that always seems to work itself out when ferries arrive. Buses (and taxis) meet all ferries and then cart passengers through an ever-rising series of S-bends to the capital, Fira, which fringes the edge of the cliffs like a snowy cornice”

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/greece/cyclades/santorini-thira

http://www.aboutsantorini.com/history.html more museum history

Our ferry from Ios was scheduled to leave 7:20 am.  We left 9:30 am, that particular ferry line being not so “on time.”  But it was smooth and short, about 80 minutes.  Entering the caldera was exciting but the sunlight made photos hard to take.  I turned this one sepia to show more details of one town up on the caldera’s hillside. 

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Ioa, the tip of the caldera, is Santorini’s Key West.

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Fira town where we stayed with the main harbor below and the hairpin turned road up.

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Throwing the lines at arrival in Fira where the whole street was lined with “tourist info/hotel/tour” kiosks  and small cafes.  One café hawker was an American by accent so I asked him for the bus to Fira town which we caught and sig- zagged our way up.

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There were a maze of streets that climbed up higher into Fira and all were lined with small shops selling the same things one to the next.

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Lots of cotton clothing for sale; these sisters were human mannequins.

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The island in the caldera and the cruise ships hovering in place.

Water in the caldera was over 1,000 feet deep in places making anchoring for these cruise ships impossible.  Instead of anchoring, cruise ships used their thrusters to hold them in position.  Fuel is used to run the thrusters which seems pretty expensive and not great for the environment.  Small tenders were used to ferry people back and forth between Santorini and the ships.

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Famous Santorini sight; Fira

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Another famous sight, sitting in a café overlooking the caldera having a drink.

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More colorful ingenious ways to wrap yourself up.

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Lots of Americans on the cruise ships; these were from Richmond. 

This photo was taken just as we were all about to enter the small antiquities museum filled with pottery and a few sculptures. We actually saw folks with B hats too, but my camera was in my pack and the narrow lane too crowded to make time for photos.

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From a cemetery of Ancient Thera (Fira) 3rd century BC.  I loved the sentiment expressed in the image.

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Early 7th century BC and early 21st century.

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The boy with the fish is an image seen everywhere.

“Painted about 1500 BC, these Minoan style murals are similar to those found at Knosos.  The best known are The Young Fisherman  depicting a youth holding blue and yellow fish and The Young Boxers, showing two young sparring partners with long black hair and almond shaped eyes.  Preserved by lava, the frescoes have kept their colour and are displayed on a rotating basis at the New Archaelolgica Museum in Fira.  Eyewitness Travel: The Greek Islands

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Photo enhanced to show the bits and fragments put together.

I read in the museum information that green wasn’t a color found in the murals so maybe that’s why the fish were yellow and blue.  But yellow and blue make green which was pointed out in the museum info so it’s an interesting question of why no green.  I didn’t ask if photos were allowed and no sign said No Photos, but I didn’t use the flash so the colors aren’t so intense.  We did watch a video showing how each of the zillion fragments was scanned three dimensionally  and then put together like a puzzle rather than have to do it all by hand.  Quite interesting.

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We opted for the bus, but one could ride a donkey part way up from the harbor. 

In the Philippines with our friend Carol we rode donkeys to a volcano caldera and Randal ended up walking half way.  These donkeys looked more sturdy and the group of them could be smelled for a good distance.   

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Or you could take cable cars.  I wouldn’t so Randal didn’t though I guess he could have cabled up and I could have ridden up and that would have worked.

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More views of Fira

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Final email about Nisyros

Yasas

  This is the final email about Nisyros.  We’re really enjoying Ios too.  I was told today Ios stands for Irish Over Seas as there are lots of Irish here and lots of Irish pubs in town.  I took myself for a walk uo up up to Chora and had a lovely time.  But first I have to write about our ferry trip and overnight stay on Santorini.

Ru

Keep Going Sox!!!

Nisyros Pali Town

The harbor at Pali on Nisyros was friendly and cozy and delightful.  We liked it a lot. 

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Getting ready to help a new boat come in…….

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You have to drop your anchor and then back up, throw lines to folks on the shore to tie them off and then adjust it all.  Not sure what we would do if there weren’t folks to help.  Sometimes there are “lazy lines” attached to mooring balls that you use rather than drop your anchor.  All goes much more smoothly when the winds are calm.

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We spent all of our meal times at Aphrodite because they were recommended by friends Sue and Ed Kelly on Angel Louise and because they were nice people with good food.  (Although my friend Martha;s Greek fish soup is better.)

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Quarter litre of wine was served in the gold pitchers.

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Randal at the computer as most restaurants offer free wifi

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Pali church

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Homes around town

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Profusion of pink

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Old, now closed hydropathic institute?  I’m just not sure though from the description in Greek Waters Pilot it sounds as if this it was it is. 

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Beach with lots of black volcanic stones

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I collected several

 

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Black volcanic stones… how to choose which ones to collect? 

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More visits to Aphrodite

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The owner’s daughter and her husband

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Randal computing during diner; I brought a book and shared the blue half litre of the lovely light white wine.

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Night time was lively but quite and great for sleeping as it was really quite cool.  With now Marmaris booming noise we could leave portholes open for the cool night air.

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Nearby Giali island where pumice stone is quarried and exported worldwide.

Nisyros Part 3 of 4

Yasas

    Santorini won’t ever be the top of our islands visits, but probably (hopefully) nothing will top the story of how we had to yell for help to get us out of our hotel.  We were locked in the hallway that lead from our room to the narrow stone hillside stairway.  We had to crawl out the room window with the help of another guest who we’d awaken with our yelling and banging.  We weren’t kidnapped; it was a case of stupidity on the part of our “hotel?” management who had given us a room key but neglected to give us a key to the hallway.  I’ll write more about it later with the photos of Santorini. 

Ru

Nisyros Part 3 Nikia

We stumbled upon Nikia serendipitously and it was my favorite stop of the day.  Nikia is so enchanting with lanes that turned into other lanes and again into other lanes past whitewashed houses with painted doors and explosions of colored plants all opening into the “square”  with its church and tavern and such.   This email takes you along with me as I explored the lanes of Nikia.

“Nikia, up on the edge of the volcanic rim to the south. In Nikia the people are not Nisirians, they are Nikiates. They inhabited Nisyros hunted from pirates and settled there around 1600. Still today when asked they never say "I am from Nisyros" the say I am from Nikia.”  http://wikitravel.org/en/Nisyros

   “Nikia, this village is also called “the eagle’s nest”, because it is located in the highest spot of the island and you can see the crater from almost all little streets.” http://gonetogreece.com/nisyros/nisyros-volcano-and-villages-in-the-skies/

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Painted  doors

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Patio overlooking the sea

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Nikia is surrounded by fields and terraced hillsides

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A tiny chapel and cemetery

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I don’t know what this is; wild artichoke or thistle or something else all-together.  Anyone know?

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A slightly enhanced close up.

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I loved the purple flower against the white of the church

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View of the terraced hillside: grapes, figs, olives…

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Some lanes face along the seaside and some took me deep into the village

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“The famous village square is paved with fine black pebbles (known in the local as hochlakia) which form a beautiful mosaic.”  http://www.greeka.com/dodecanese/nisyros/nisyros-villages/nisyros-nikia.htm

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Church in Nikia

  There are two taverna in Nikia and I’d left Randal sitting in the one at the edge of town.  Motorized vehicled aren’t allowed into the village; there seemed to be no roads a car could drive along.  So after about 30 minutes I made myself find my way back to Randal and our motorbike and all too soon it was time to go.  It was on my way back to Randal when I discovered signs pointing to the view of the caldera.

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Nisyros Part 2 Visit to the Volcano

Yasas,

   So Santorini won’t be our favorite island; too crowded thanks to the 3 cruise ships in port and day trippers like us.  It’s kind of like being in Provincetown in high season.  But Randal loved cruising into the caldera on the ferry boat so it’s all worth it.  We arrived about 11:30 am as our 7 am ferry from Ios didn’t actually get to Ios until 9:20 am so didn’t leave Ios until 9:30 am.  To get back to Ios tomorrow we must take the 9 am ferry which island hops its way back to Ios getting us there after 1 pm.  There are other prettier parts to this island we won’t see.  But so it goes. 

This email is an island hop back to Nisyros, to the volcano’s caldera.  Santorini was also a volcano.  I really should have paid more attention in my year of geology at UMass. 

Ru

Nisyros Volcano Observatory      The volcanic risks in the region

     “The volcanic centers of Nisyros, Yali and Kos are part of the South Aegean Active Volcanic Arc, one of the two existing volcanic arcs in the Mediterranean. The first two (Yali and Nisyros) are the newest major volcanic centers of the said Arch. This region was the setting for the most violent eruption in the Mediterranean, 161,000 years ago; its products covered half of Kos island and its tephra is found today from Kalymnos to Tilos and the Turkish coast.

     In the last 45,000 years, at least two devastating explosive eruptions occurred on Nisyros and two more on Yali, each of them blasting more than three billion cu. m. of magma. Ejected products were deposited in the greater area. A hiatus with regard to volcanic activity occurred between the above mentioned eruptions. This does not preclude a future repetition of devastating activity, a highly hazardous possibility for Nisyros and the neighboring islands.

     Another grave volcanic hazard encumbers Nisyros. It pertains to hydrothermal explosions (release of superheated geothermal fluid). Such explosions occurred in 1871-73 and 1887 on the caldera floor (Lofos site). 10 well preserved hydrothermal craters attest to the existence of intense hydrothermal explosive activity in the last 4-5,000 years. As their causal effects (the superheated geothermal reservoir and the impermeable cap) are present, it is possible that such explosions may occur in the area of the caldera floor in the imminent future. As revealed by the first deep borehole in 1981 by PPC, Nisyros proved to be the most dynamic and the hottest (for such a geotectonic area) geothermal field in the world. Hydrothermal craters also constitute an attraction to thousands of visitors each year; such an unforeseen explosion could have devastating effects.”

http://nisyros.igme.gr/

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View from Nikia after our visit to the volcano’s caldera.

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Close up of the caldera

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Photo taken on the way to the caldera.

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The hillside near the caldera had yellow soil

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Walking into the caldera which was big enough to make the people already inside look tiny from this distance.  And it smelled just like rotten eggs, but not unbearably so.

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You couldn’t keep your hand over the hole (about 1 foot diameter) for more than a few seconds or it would have been scalded.  There were dozens in the caldera

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