Picasso in A Coruna

Hola,

  The bar just an arm’s reach from our finger pier plays the best music, at a really reasonable volume from about 6pm until 9pm.  Perfecto!!!!

I went off exploring today.  Randal worked on the boat.  So what else is new?

Ru

          The Picasso Family in A Coruña  and Messing Around on Boats….

  Living on a boat because you like to travel is like working in a library because you like to read….  Way too much of Randal’s time is spent figuring out how to get us from place to place and then doing boat repairs when we get there.  Travel is sandwiched in between those two tasks.  When you work in a library, you read book reviews, order books, process books, look up the location of books or other information on the library shelves or computer or microfilm reader and hand them to other people to read.  Away from the library is when you actually have time to read.   While I was out and about today having a wonderful time exploring A Coruña, Randal spent the day dealing with dirty fuel issues.  Yesterday morning we returned to the Pombo shop to collect the exorbitantly expensive fuel filters Randal had ordered and in the afternoon the AIS/GPS repair guy came with one new part and lots of good skill.  That also was exorbitantly expensive, but absolutely necessary as it not only fixed our problem but corrected the jerry-rigged set up the original AIS installers had done in Hong Kong that never worked until we got to Singapore years later and those guys and Randal made it work.  Now, thanks to the skill of Raul Martinez Lijό Gerente from NAUELEC  www.nauelec.com both the AIS and GPS are working correctly!  Hurrah!!!  The folks at Pombo had suggested Raul and the folks at the marina had called him for us.  Pombo had tracked down a supplier for the fuel filters too so everyone here has been really helpful even though the cost of items is double what we’d pay at home. 

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Raul and Randal

Picasso

There are free tours offered through the A Coruña Tourist Office and Randal and I luckily managed to get a spot on the “Picasso’s Town” tour.  Our tour leader was half knowledgeable guide, half actor so the 90 minute walking tour was very entertaining.  60 minutes were in Spanish and 30 in English as the Spanish explanations seemed to be twice as long as those in English.  Of the 30 participants, only 6 of us were English speakers, all from the United States and the other 4 who were not Randal and I, spoke some Spanish. 

When we first met our tour leader…

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Tour Guide:  Where are you from?

Me: America.

Tour Guide: Columbia?

Me:  North America

Tour Guide?

Me United States, Virginia….

In Asia if I said United States folks didn’t understand until I said America.  But in countries with ties to other North American countries : Central, Latin, or South American, one has to be careful not to claim all of that territory for us. 

Our guide asked more questions later and Randal fed me all kinds of wrong information making me look really REALLY DUMB.  First Randal told me the wrong year the Picasso’s came to A Coruña which I couldn’t remember.  Worse, our guide was talking about the Scotsman General Sir John Moore who was sent to help the Spanish against the Emperor Napoleon, and asked us to guess his age.  I thought he meant Moore’s age so when Randal told me 47 that’s what I said.  Turns out we were supposed to be guessing the age of  Eusebio da Guarda, our guide’s persona (or really the guide’s age ) which was 44!  Nothing like telling someone they look older than they are.  Randal is hysterical for the next 10 minutes or so when the guide is talking but amazingly I’m holding it together really embarrassed that I’d told our guide he looked old!  When we started to walk along again I ran up to the guide and told him I thought he’d asked how old Moore was at the time and Randal had made a guess that I’d offered.  Duh!  Randal did give him a 20 Euro tip at the end for putting up with us. 

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Eusebio da Guarda is the persona of our tour guide.

In real life de Guarda was the patron of the School of Fine Arts and the High School were Picasso began to study art at the age of 10.  I believe his father also taught there which is why they were in A Coruña among other reasons.

It is still in use as a secondary school

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Picasso House and Museum

Most of the artwork is reproductions so it’s really the house that’s of interest.   And the tour is just as much the history of A Coruña during the years 1891 to  1895 as it is about Picasso.  The Theater where he saw plays and which was the first building to have electricity.  The pharmacy owned by the father of his first love, Lola, the subject of the barefoot girl painting.  A chocolate shop as A Coruña is famous for chocolate though neither Randal nor I can remember why.

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Probably not the actual paint brushes and palettes used by Picasso but inspiring anyway.

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Small dining room

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Truth or Myth

The man in the framed painting is Doctor Pérez Costales physician to and family friend of the Picassos.  The photograph is of the richest man in A Coruña at the time.  He owned an umbrella store, now a shop not far from the Old Town.  The  rumor was that the doctor, who was also a politician and big man about town, was the umbrella shop owner’s real father. 

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Authentic sketches: framed and under glass.

Boris and Natasha from the Bulwinkle show could be mistaken for a Picasso sketch

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Picasso with his family

http://www.theartwolf.com/articles/picasso-coruna-en.htm

“However, there is a stage in the life of Pablo Picasso that remains, at least for the general public, as unknown, a sort of loophole in the popular career of the great genius of the visual arts of the twentieth century: his brief but decisive period in A Coruña, Galicia, Spain (1891-1895), a key time in the artist’s formation”

This website seems to match what we heard on the tour and seems to have more info than any other I found that was in English.  I don’t know if it was my imagination or wishful thinking but if our guide had been speaking more slowly I might have understood more of what he said in Spanish.  But he only had 90 minutes and we had many stops along the way, each with a long story ( Spanish version) and the gist of it version for those of us limited to English.  But then I can’t say I’ve ever been on a tour in the US where it was given in any language other than English. 

Randal and I had walked to Pombo in the morning to pick up the fuel filters that turned out not to be there yet and then walked back to Old Town to have lunch and meet the tour and then walked most of the way back to Pombo to get to the Picasso House so by the end of the tour we were pretty pooped.  And we still had to go to the grocery store so the museum shop got short shrift.  I did see postcards of the famous Picasso Don Quixote print that everyone had once upon a time and the hand holding flowers.  Brought back memories of many many years ago in the 60s! 

Two unrelated stories and more Coruna photos

Hola,

  Today was a really nice day but also a kinda disappointing day.   The fuel filters Randal had ordered really hadn’t been delivered so we have to return to Pombo to get them tomorrow, hopefully; and the GPS/AIS repair guy who was to come at 3:30 pm today still isn’t here at 6:32 pm.  Maybe the part he needed didn’t come on time either.  The nice part was we went on a very entertaining Picasso walk through Coruña with a led by a very knowledgeable guide from the A Coruña Tourist Office.  Most of the 30 folks (30 is the limit so it was full up) were Spanish speaking so our guide had to repeat everything for Randal and me and the 3 women from Maryland and the guy from Washington though I think they all understood some Spanish.  The English version was shorter but just as good because Randal and I were thoroughly entertained.  I’d expected more time at the Picasso family home but, hey, the 90 minute tour was free so no complaints at all.   And I made a return trip to the Plaza of Humor on my way for groceries.

  There’s so much to see here; just walking up and down the streets with their enticing shops is fun.  Much better than walking in a mall.  The weather gods are going to keep us here maybe another week or more so we’ll get to see more of A Coruña, the silver lining in the cloud of delay.

Ru

Ps  glad lots of you liked the “ladies” as much as I did

 

Two Stories and more Coruña photos

When we were leaving La Liῆea/Gibraltar we heard over our VHF radio what to me was a funny exchange.  If you can call a breach of international law funny.  Thankfully this was only an exchange of words and nothing more.  I don’t remember the exact wording, but here is the gist of it. They weren’t  speaking to us….though friends Ed and Sue on Angel Louise had a VHF run in with the Brits while entering Gibraltar unannounced.  DoraMac was never that close to Gibraltar to have a problem. 

“This is British Naval Ship, you are entering British waters; please identify yourself and state your purpose. “

Silence

“This is British Naval Ship, you are entering British waters; please identify yourself and state your purpose. “

More Silence

“This is British Naval Ship, you are entering British waters; please identify yourself and state your purpose.  Not responding is a violation of International Law Code……..and your actions will be reported to….”

“Whose waters?” or something that sounded like that.

“This is British Naval Ship, you are entering British waters; please identify yourself and state your purpose.  Not responding is a violation of International Law Code……..and your actions will be reported to….”

“Is this a recording?”

We never did find out what happened but Spain and Britain are definitely having a war of words over Gibraltar.  Gibraltar had begun to rigidly check all boats in its waters to prevent Spanish fishermen in Gibraltar Bay.  In response Spain was doing exceedingly slow border checks backing traffic up back into Gibraltar.  It’s hard for me to believe that most of those stuck in the traffic leaving Gibraltar weren’t Spanish, but I really don’t know.  The Brits divided the normally one way traffic into two lanes Gibraltar so that the red border bus could still drive back and forth from the Spanish border to the bus station at Market Square which was all we needed.

    Other story, a marina dryer dispute I found much less funny (and really much less important) but makes me more sympathetic/empathetic with the frustrated British Naval Ship Captain.  It involves a French woman yelling at me for removing her laundry from the dryer.  I’d gone to the laundry room and the dryer was running so I sat and waited.  It stopped and no one came to take it out  The dryer was set for 30 minutes on what you could tell was synthetics but  had been stuffed with heavy cotton towels among way too much other stuff.  I opened the dryer to remove the wash but everything was still wet.   I didn’t want to restart the dryer with stuff in it because who knows, maybe something would get too dry and be ruined.   So as the dryer had been stopped for at least 10 minutes, I took the stuff in it out and put mine in.  My laundry had been in the dryer 20 minutes set on algodόn which I’d figured was cotton when SHE came in and yelled at me…in French while I was trying to explain to her…in English… that I’d waited for hers to finish and then waited for her to show up.  As I’d no clue whose laundry it was and the marina office was closed, I’d taken the stuff out and put mine in rather than sit around forever waiting for someone, apparently her, to show up.  She kept yelling “not possible, not possible.”  Anyway, she shoved her wet stuff into a bag and stormed away in a huff.  The previous day I’d had to remove laundry from the dryer but it was dry and I folded it neatly and I think it was hers too as I think I recognized the bag.  Funny enough when I’d gone to get my laundry that day she was there telling the marina man something was wrong with the washer so maybe it spins poorly and that’s why hers didn’t dry.  I know it took mine forever and our washer spins really well.   Happily her boat left the marina and the sun is supposed to shine all weekend so I can hang the laundry out!

Now more A Coruῆa photos.

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Boys will be boys # 1  Looking at construction and big machines, along the walkway from the marina.

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Randal thinks they’re planning to put up a building, but we don’t know.

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Heading off to the “effectos navales” for some naval supply shops.

This is the opposite direction from the “old town” so  there’s a mix of old and new.

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The building on the right I think is a mall, maybe supposed to be shaped like a ship?  Or it’s part of the convention center.  There are too many “down town” shops to make a mall appealing.

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Boys will be boys # 2

Randal saw first and by the time I realized what was happening, this was the only shot I got.  We’d both actually thought the man with the ear protectors had been teaching the other man how to use the blower.  And maybe he was, but somehow he turned it into a performance for Randal and me.  Spanish folks are really quite warm and friendly here as they were in La Liῆea.

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Darning needle for fishing nets.

  I bought one just like it, just a bit smaller, when we were in China.  Mine is smooth wood and I’ve no idea what I’ll do with it.  I just liked the shape. 

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Pombo

The people in this shop are very helpful and we seem to visit them about every other day.

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Lost in translation.

On the way home from the boat supply side of town, I suggested we forego our regular place across from the marina with the English menu option for something more local.   I had a dictionary and the waiter had a computer translator but this doesn’t look like 3 tortillas to me.  We ordered one cheese, one tuna, and one chorizo.  When he asked if we wanted the Spanish or French version, we opted for the Spanish though he then mentioned something about potato being part of it.  I think spices had something to do with the French version.  Randal just wanted food, so it was, okay, whatever.  There was enough food for 4 people so we went home with lots.  The yellow things, not cheese, are pretty good and do have potato in them; and egg and cheese.  We had them for dinner with vegetables and beans. 

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Can you tell from just the shape that this is John Lennon?

We went back out in the afternoon as I wanted to visit the library which closed from 2 until 3 pm.  Randal came with me, but as even I was confused about things, he decided to go back to the boat.  I stayed for a bit and looked at an art book about Picasso in preparation for our Picasso in A Coruῆa tour the next day.  Then I walked around old town for a bit before returning to DoraMac and catching “the Ladies” wading in the water.

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I love these knockers and if I see one in a shop might have to get it.  The one on top has so much detail you can see the fingernails.  I wish I could see inside its building because it is so “old city.” We did get to visit the Picasso family home which was in a tall narrow building so maybe that will have to do.  (But that’s another story.)

I first encountered Plaza del Humor on my way home from the big grocery store.  I had no clue it was a permanent “exhibit” or if it was graffiti. But the next day Randal and I took a look on our way to and from the grocery store which was when I noticed the sign below.  Unfortunately a quick Internet search hasn’t turned up much to explain the genius behind the idea and some of the names have been worn down so much that I really need to go back just to look at everything really hard to see who all is there.  Some folks I recognized but many I didn’t.  Like the guy below who I know is not Jimmy Durante.

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“Plaza del Humor or Humor Square is a tiny theme square dedicated to many different characters throughout history that had a remarkable sense of comedy of humor. The pavement of this square display images of many of this characters, such as Chaplin, Laurel and Hardy, Groucho Marx, Moliere, Aristoteles and even Shakespeare. Some of them are also Galician writers and artist that may not be known by many people.” http://www.cosmotourist.com/travel-tip/73184/a-coruna/plaza-del-humor/historic-comedy-characters-in-a-square/

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Fred and Barney are here Pedro and Pablo! I wonder if their last names stayed the same.  Every time I saw ruins in Turkey I thought of “Barney Rubble.”  And when I was 3 years old I played Mae West at a summer hotel our parents visited in Lebanon, CT called Grand Lake Lodge.  I remember losing a tooth, learning to float, and playing May West. I think I also hated it because I’m not good around kids I don’t know.  Our parents took part in some of the theater activities too. , I remember my father played a bride in some crazy production….if my memory is correct.  Har, you remember?   God knows how they got me to do the Mae West thing except at 3 you just do stuff.  So embarrassing to even think about it. And worse there are photos to prove it.

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Socrates, Aresop and Pug

On my way back from the grocery store (camera-less so I could carry more groceries) I saw Laurel and Hardy and Oscar Wilde among others.

 

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The mom told the boys to get off the head so they climbed on his leg; but it is meant to be sat on anyway.  Not sure who it is, but it will be fun finding out. 

Though it’s the Plaza del Humor I don’t think it’s so funny that I don’t know half of these famous folks, but I do know Pedro and Pablo. 

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Reference Reading Room

The staff in the library pooled their limited English, more than my non-existent Spanish, to explain that the circulating books were closed shelved but they could get them for me.  I really just wanted to browse the watercolor books so that wouldn’t work.  I was shown the upstairs reference/magazine area but they really were just reference books; most in Spanish and few with pictures.  Here I have the small book on Picasso’s Blue Period and my trusty dictionary.  I’m guessing I should try to find the municipal library that I think exists if I want a browsing collection.  

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I want to read this magazine just because I love the cover.

They do have Time and Newsweek , the London Times and WSJ in English in the magazine section so I’ll probably go back to visit as it’s just 5 minutes away.

Forever Friends!

Hola,

On my way into the marina just at the small boat landing I saw these two women and  I fell in love with them.  Hopefully when I’m their age, I won’t give a hoot either!

Ru

 

Warning   by Jenny Joseph

When I am an old woman I shall wear purple

With a red hat which doesn’t go, and doesn’t suit me.

And I shall spend my pension on brandy and summer gloves

And satin sandals, and say we’ve no money for butter.

I shall sit down on the pavement when I’m tired

And gobble up samples in shops and press alarm bells

And run my stick along the public railings

And make up for the sobriety of my youth.

I shall go out in my slippers in the rain

And pick flowers in other people’s gardens

And learn to spit.

You can wear terrible shirts and grow more fat

And eat three pounds of sausages at a go

Or only bread and pickle for a week

And hoard pens and pencils and beermats and things in boxes.

But now we must have clothes that keep us dry

And pay our rent and not swear in the street

And set a good example for the children.

We must have friends to dinner and read the papers.

But maybe I ought to practice a little now?

So people who know me are not too shocked and surprised

When suddenly I am old, and start to wear purple.

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Zoom in on the face of the woman in black and look at her smile!clip_image013

Another wild tangent….

  We wake to the sound of church bells and crying seagulls.  The church bells are lovely, the seagulls really screechy, but not so harsh as crows.

  It rained last night but the sky seems to be clearing a bit so we can go out and about and not get wet. 

  Last night the Red Sox, like the best team in baseball played the Astros, one of the worst, and managed to lose!  I tried to go to MLB.com but the site was too busy probably from all the baseball news of yesterday. 

  I’m off on a wild tangent this morning thanks to my pal Eileen.  See below.

Ru

Hi Ruth,

The photo you labeled Valkyries is two characters from the cartoon Asterix.  There is an Asterix amusement park somewhere in Europe!”  from one of my two college roommates, Eileen.

Thanks Eileen, how you know this I don’t know and won’t ask.  Best to George too!

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http://en.asterix.com/index.html.en is the website for those of you who also thought these folks were Valkyries and this kid is so cute I don’t mind posting the photo again.

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Asterix or The Adventures of Asterix (French: Astérix or Astérix le Gaulois, IPA: [asteʁiks lə ɡolwa]) is a series of French comics written by René Goscinny and illustrated by Albert Uderzo (Uderzo took over the writing after the death of Goscinny in 1977). The series first appeared in the French comics magazine Pilote on 29 October 1959. As of 2012, 34 volumes have been released.

The series follows the exploits of a village of indomitable Gauls as they resist Roman occupation. They do so by means of a magic potion, brewed by their druid, which gives the recipient superhuman strength. The protagonist, the titular character Asterix, along with his friend Obelix have various adventures. The "ix" suffix of both names echoes the names of real Gaulish chieftains such as Vercingetorix, Orgetorix, and Dumnorix. Many of the stories have them travel to foreign countries, though others are set in and around their village. For much of the history of the series (Volumes 4 through 29), settings in Gaul and abroad alternated, with even-numbered volumes set abroad and odd-numbered volumes set in Gaul, mostly in the village.

The Asterix series is one of the most popular Franco-Belgian comics in the world, with the series being translated into over 100 languages, and it is popular in most European countries.

The success of the series has led to the adaptation of several books into 12 films: eight animated, and four with live actors. There have also been a number of games based on the characters, and a theme park near Paris, Parc Astérix, is themed around the series. To date, 325 million copies of 34 Asterix books have been sold worldwide, making co-creators René Goscinny and Albert Uderzo France’s bestselling authors abroad.”

Gallia Est Omnis Divisa in Partes Tres (All Gaul Is Divided into Three Parts).   The only thing I remember about Gaul is that it was divided into three parts and that was from two years of Latin of which I only remember the passive endings of something. 

http://frenchculture.org/books/interviews/interview-alex-alice   “As you look forward to the American release of Alex Alice’s graphic novel Siegfried II: The Valkyrie (available May 21 from Archaia), read an interview with his translator, Edward Gauvin. Here, he discusses working in different formats, the challenges of fantasy, and some of his favourite French and American comic artists.”    Funny that I never read that comic but I do sort of remember seeing it now that I read about it here.  But I’m not much for any comics now.

http://www.spiked-online.com/newsite/article/13316 is an article that compares German Richard Wagner composer of the Valkyries to Italian Verdi composer of  La Traviata …… the music to the film Pretty Woman.”  Both, of course, wrote other pieces but as a child I danced around the house to The Ride of the Valkyries.  dun da da dun dun,  dun da da da!   And I’ve seen Pretty Woman several times.  Intellectual vs emotional is one way the article’s author Patrick West describes it.  I’ve no clue how a small kids dancing around the house to Wagner = intellectual image, but maybe it was.  But then I am better at research than watercolor, watercolor needing much emotion to get it right.  Anyway, this “off on a tangent” came about because I wanted to see if anyone out there in Google Land thought as I did about the Asterix being Valkyries. Funny all that I remember from elementary school but how little I remember from most college classes.   But now I’m done and off to get ready for the day exploring more of La Coruña.  You’re probably beyond ready for me to be done.  

Actually one more thing… http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Adventures_of_Brisco_County,_Jr.  The Adventures of Brisco County, Jr.  was a great one season western-scifi that had Valkyrie characters.  If you never saw it, get the DVDs because it was clever and funny and created by the same folks who did the script for one Indiana Jones movie.

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These are not Asterix characters…at least I don’t think so.  It’s a close-up of the mannequin from the shop scene.  As for the purple and blue cans, they’re probably something I’ve not heard of either.   

Actually the mannequin reminded me of a Picasso face and it probably isn’t such an odd thought as he and his family lived here during Picasso’s teen years. 

" Casas Museo de A Coruña. House museums.

The Picasso family lived in A Coruña for five years, when the artist was an adolescent and the city influenced his creation. The Picasso House Museum conserves some of these works and is identical to when the painter lived there.”  http://www.coruna.es

I’ll make it a point to visit his house…if I can find it.

The charisma of La Coruña

Hola,

  Here’s a first look at La Coruña. 

Ru

“The charisma of La Coruña

    Often-overlooked La Coruña in northern Spain is just the place to find good food, fabulous beaches and a dash of culture.”

http://www.theguardian.com

It was a horror getting here (which we’re not quite over) but I’m already in love with La Coruῆa.  Just down the street and around the corner is the Provincial Library which I only discovered on my way back from finding both the Galicia and La Coruña Tourist Offices.  Last night on our way for a light dinner we had walked past what was the Galicia Tourist Office.  I returned this morning and they were very helpful but told me I really needed La Coruña Tourist Office and explained to me how to get there. On my way I discovered a wonderful area of shops and restaurants and an Artist Association but not La Coruña Tourist Office.  I can’t imagine how I missed it the first time I walked across the Maria Pita Square as there was a huge white i on the front and corner when I finally found it.    Several kind people had tried to explain to me in very slow Spanglish (more Spang than lish) where La Coruña Tourist Office was located, but finally a man who must have seen me walk by one time already, took pity and walked part way with me and pointed just across the plaza where the office was located.  I couldn’t see it or really understand him so he crouched down and touched the stone street to indicate that I should cross the plaza to where the stone street was and find the office.  He was right!  I honestly think my timing was off and the office had opened after my first pass by and that’s when the signs had been put out.  Who knows!  As I finally did find it that’s what’s important.  It will definitely be a fun area to explore, La Coruña’s old city.  

http://www.galiciaguide.com/Maria-Pita-square.html is a link to info about Maria Pita Square about a 10 minute walk from DoraMac.  Now that I know where it is, I can find lots of places located around it. 

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DoraMac happy to be tied to a finger pier

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When I walked to the Tourist Offices this morning I saw this young boy catching star fish hopefully to take home for an aquarium.  Interesting that they turn orange out of the water.

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In the water they’re an amazing shade of purple 

Ophidiaster ophidianus Purple starfish  http://www.european-marine-life.org/30/ophidiaster-ophidianus.php   Being in a marina is like floating on top of a huge aquarium with all of the fish and sea life.

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Octopus guarding the entrance to the marina area

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Walkway from the marina with construction of some sort just across the way but it doesn’t bother us.

Just behind those modern looking building is the “old world.”  It’s great to be so close to such a great area.  A supermarket too!

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This tour boat comes and goes several times each day taking folks on an hour’s tour of the bay.  Fishing boats come and go too.

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If you’re walking along past the marina we’re just b8hind the magic 8 ball!

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Galerias Corunesas  Windowed Balconies

“These windowed balconies in the Avenida de la Marina were built during the 19th century to make the most of the hours of daylight and gave A Coruῆa its nickname of the Crystal City.”  A Coruῆa Tourist Map

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Asociacion de Artista   bottom floor of the yellow building

I was told at the tourist office that this is a place for local craftspeople open to the public.  I passed it this morning and this afternoon and it was closed.  This street is one over from the main Marina Aveune so I can check often and hopefully find it open one day.

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So perfectly the way it’s supposed to be with old people and young people and shops with stuff.

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Knitted flowers and flower pot covers adorned many of the balconies. 

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“Town Hall and Council building (Palacio Municipal) which is truly monumental in both its scale and incredibly ornate detailing.”  http://www.galiciaguide.com

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Valkyries ?

They are set up outside the Town Hall for some reason I don’t yet know.  This tiny person’s mom is just out of the photo.

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Iglesia de San Jorge

   “Although not in the Maria Pita square itself, the square does offer a view of the small but elegant church of St. George (Iglesia de San Jorge), which you reach by exiting the plaza to the left of the Palacio Municipal. This church was built in the eighteenth century and is in the typical baroque style of that period. It has a slender and almost elongated appearance with two bell towers and also has the addition of an elaborate cruceiro in the small courtyard in front of it. It was designed by Architect Domingo de Andrade.”  http://www.galiciaguide.com

And just past the church is the big grocery store!

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The statue of Maria Pita

“Maria Pita herself came to notoriety as a result of her role in Sir Francis Drake’s attack on A Coruna in 1589 and she is credited with playing a critical part in reducing the losses of the Corunans during this assault.” http://www.galiciaguide.com   Depending on what country you’re in someone is a hero and someone is the villain and it all changes when you move to another country.  I assume in England Drake will be the hero and Maria Pita (if they’ve even heard of her) the villain. 

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I walked through those arches and never saw the amazing!

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Need help, go to the Library and I will lots more.

I couldn’t figure out exactly how to get to the supermarket, duh: so stopped into the library to check the hours and asked the guard for help.  He walked outside and pointed me the correct way.  You have to watch people’s hands as left and right get lost in translation.  He was kind and I found my way, eventually even finding it on the map.  It’s not far from Florida Street which struck me as odd until I remembered that the Spanish once owned Florida. 

Dolphins and Rainbows

Hola,

   Before I write about La Coruña, which is an exceedingly charming place! I want to just share some of the bright spots or our passage.  They were few and far between, but they were there.  I definitely think some higher power created rainbows because they really do lift your spirit after stormy weather as clichéd and hackneyed as that sounds. (Yes I do know there’s a scientific explanation, but when you’re in the middle of the ocean science isn’t so consoling as a rainbow.)  And dolphins, playful creatures who come to visit and entertain with their dives and twirls when you need something to make you smile. 

   Now we’re back to reality and the security of a marina for the time being.  And speaking of reality, it rains in the summer?   I can’t remember the last time we had rain in the summer.  Our past years in Turkey, North Cyprus, Israel  and Tunisia, when the rain stops for the summer months, it STOPS!  Every day is a laundry day.  No problem with motorbike travel.  Not no more!  I had to use the marina dryer this afternoon because an early evening shower came along.  I’d hung laundry out about 4 pm which seems late, but the sun (usually) shines until 10 pm.  Not today.  Tomorrow either as thunderstorms are forecasted.  “Passing strange!” to quote Othello (which means stranger than strange) but I’m reading The Weird Sisters by Eleanor Brown and there are lots of references to Shakespeare.  Anyway, here are a few photos from the bright spots of the passage.

And from those who shared sea sick stories, here’s some advice from my cousin Ernest; "never eat nothing before embarking on a boat".   And this from New Bedford  friend Beth’s commercial fisherman cousin…” just eat crackers and avoid fluids.”  

Ru

The bright spots in our passage to La Coruña: some of the bright spots being Randal’s ability to fix what needed fixing for us to make it to La Coruῆa.

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Lots of visits from dolphins!

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A beautiful sunset

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An amazing rainbow with absolutely every color!

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The lovely calm Camarinas where we rested after 4 awful days…

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You could have been in Maine with the smell of pine forest across the way on the other side of the bay.  We never visited the town, no time for that with all of the repairs that Randal needed to do.  I repacked cupboards so things would stop crashing around.  I’d thought I’d packed them well enough, but we just rolled so much that I need to do better next time.  And I even cooked us a real dinner that we could actually eat and keep down!

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Randal up on the flybridge fixing the GPS

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The autopilot pump is under the bed in our cabin

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Randal under the bed in the back cabin fixing the autopilot pump

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Randal changing fuel filters in the engine room

Arrived in La Coruna

Hola,

  I can only remember being seasick one other time in my life and that was in 1970, my first evening at Outward Bound.  We’d driven from Amherst, MA to Rockland, ME many hours, met the OB people who gave a brief orientation and then told us to sail to some island whose name I’ve forgotten.   Our sailboat was a 30 foot two masted pulling boat with a funny shaped sail.  After forever when one of the group who actually knew how to sail got us to this particular island, we sat off the island in the surf trying to guess what we were supposed to do.  While just sitting there rolling gently around I got seasick.  I attributed it to having eaten nothing since about noon and it was then late in the evening.  One of my OB group offered to help me off the boat but managed to snag his foot on something which landed us both in the water.  I crawled my way to shore.  Thankfully that was the only time during my 26 days of Outward Bound that I was sick.  Other folks were sick every day. Other folks probably learned to sail, I just tried to get through everyday which, for someone who’d never been sailing, rock climbing or repelling, or even really camping was like a series of final exams for which I was ill prepared.  I still don’t know how to sail or much else to do with boats.  I’m just not a boat person.  Things don’t make sense to me that instantly make sense to other people.  And the only thing I know about machines, and that’s what a boat is, a machine,  is that they will stop working at the worse possible times.    If you can’t fix them, or fix them enough, you’re done fore.  Thankfully Randal can fix them or fix them enough so we’ve been okay.  This last passage had too long a list of things not working.  And to top it all off and return to the point of my Outward Bound story, I got seasick…twice.  Actually the second day was a “sick headache” that became much worse from the Ibuprofen, Sturgeron, anti- nausea pill  cocktail I took to make it go away after two hot showers didn’t work.  I think the first day’s bout was caused from too much acid in my stomach from the big bowl of cabbage salad followed by a frozen banana.  I’d been fine until I ate that and then, not good at all.  Randal wasn’t particularly sea sick the first day which was a blessing as he usually is the one to be sick.  During the second day both of us were sick and exhausted from the huge swells and winds, most having been not forecasted by two different weather models.  By the third day I was over being sea sick but that’s when DoraMac got ill.  Fuel filter issues and GPS issues.  The final straw, late afternoon day 4, was when the autopilot stopped working and we had to hand steer the boat.  I’m not great ever at hand steering, but in rolling seas!  Well I got better because I had to, but not by much.  So we stopped for a night in a lovely bay Camarinas which looked and smelled like Maine and was quiet and lovely.  That was last night.  Today was actually a very pleasant cruise with no winds, relatively flat seas, and great speed.  La Coruῆa is a really interesting city and we might have time to explore.  Lots of boat issues need to be resolved before we even think about crossing the Bay of Biscay which would only be 2 nights, but still; things need to working perfectly, at least when we start out. 

  I didn’t call this email, “passage from Hell” because I know I’ve used that before.  I hope I can call it the “final passage from Hell.”  And the thing is, seasoned cruisers probably would have thought it no big deal. But then, as I tell everyone, I might live on a boat, but I’m really not a cruiser.

Ru

Coruna Spain

Hola,

   Today is our final day in La Linea.  We made one last trek to Mercadonar Supermarket and loaded up on “water with gas” as they say here.  And bread, eggs, chips…  We have enough food for several weeks but our passage is just 4 nights.  We’re on our way to Coruna, Spain where we’ll stay in a marina for a bit before moving on.  As we walked through town today I realized that we’d not really had any “Spanish” food.  So in Coruna we will have to for sure. 

   I’ve also loaded several books onto my Kindle to keep me busy.  Never did make it to Terry’s Used Books.  I’ll have to check in the UK for Scruffy.

Hopefully the next time we have Internet access the Sox will have gotten their swings back!

Ru

We visit the Top of the Rock

Hola,

  Yesterday we took the cable car to the Top of the Rock.  Here’s the story.

Ru

It was a lovely clear day and most boat chores are completed, so we took the day to go to Gibraltar.  We first went to The Rock taking the cable car up and down.  I would have liked to walk at least one way but Randal’s heel spur is still bothering him and he really didn’t have much interest in the hike anyway.  I had more interest in the hike than actually visiting The Rock plus cable cars aren’t my favorite thing.  As cable cars go, this one was smooth and quick.  Even with the cable car we still managed to get some walking exercise.  We had walked from the marina to the border.  We walked from the cable car office at the foot of the Rock back into town where we walked around looking for used book shops. We found Bell Books on Bell Lane but Terry’s in Irish Town had closed at 1 pm for the day as they do every Saturday.   Then we walked back to the Market Place Terminal to get the red city bus back across the border.  And then we walked from the border back to the marina. Walking does become part of your life when you live on a boat. 

My favorite part of the Rock were the Barbary Apes.  In Bell Books she had no copies of Scruffy and it’s not available on Kindle.  Maybe Terry’s, the used book shop will have it.  The clerk in Bell Books said Scruffy was out of print.  It’s hard to believe that Gibraltar wouldn’t somehow find a way to have copies for sale.  Someone is missing an opportunity somewhere.  Just like those pomegranate possibilities on Sicily. 

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My favorite photo of the day!

Barbary macaque

“The Gibraltar apes are actually a tailless monkey called a Barbary Macaque (Macaca Sylvanus). No one is actually sure how they got to Gibraltar, however, speculation has it they were brought either by the Arabs sometime after 711CE or the British after 1704. The Macaque is listed as ‘endangered’ in its homelands in Algeria and Morocco but here in Gibraltar they thrive under the care of the Gibraltar Ornithological & Natural History Society (GONHS).” http://www.gibraltarinfo.gi/gibraltar-apes.aspx

“Barbary macaques are the only non-human primates found in Europe. There is a small population on Gibraltar although most live in the oak and cedar forests of Morocco and northern Algeria. They are also known as Barbary apes due to their lack of a tail, but they are actually Old World monkeys. Barbary macaques live in troops of as many as 100 members and the males help care for the young, grooming and playing with them. This distinguishes them from other macaques. The males sometimes focus attention on youngsters that aren’t their offspring. This may be because females mate with all male members of the troop so paternity is uncertain.

Scientific name: Macaca sylvanus

Rank: Species

Common names: Barbary ape, Common macaque,  Rock ape”

http://www.bbc.co.uk/nature/life/Barbary_macaque

Scruffy by Paul Gallico  (a book about the Barbary Apes of Gibraltar)

     Paul Gallico writes: “There is one demonstrable fact in this otherwise total work of fiction and that is on the 25th August, 1944, the Prime Minister, Winston Churchill, caused a signal to be sent to Gibraltar expressing anxiety over disquieting rumours concerning the welfare of the Barbary apes established there, and directing that every effort should be made to restore the dwindling number of apes to twenty-four, and that this number should be maintained thereafter. So much for truth. All that follows is nothing but the wildest imagination.”

    From this lurid imagining Paul Gallico has produced Scruffy, the ugliest, nastiest-tempered, roughest old villain of a Barbary ape. The story contains all the fertility of Gallico’s invention, sparked by his love for the British and their odd ways, his understanding of animals, maiden ladies, young lovers, choleric Brigadiers, phychologists doubling as intelligence officers, and prang-prone R.A.F. pilots. It is a unique entertainment written with the inimitable Gallico touch; and renders the unbearable Scruffy the most lovable ape of your acquaintance.  ISBN: 0860090264

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Don’t feed the Macaques!!!

The sign on the left was posted just outside the entrance to the cable car; the other down in town.

As we were waiting to get into the cable car a young woman asked her two friends if they could, either pat the monkeys or feed them, I can’t remember which.  Hopefully she didn’t do either; Macaques are certainly known to bite.  The Macaques on Langkawi had no interest in being friends with the humans.  But, having said that, they do looks so thoughtful and “human.”

“The apes come into contact with humans on a daily basis and it is through this contact they became known as ‘Bags of Fat’ being fed by well meaning but ill informed people. Their general health has improved under GONHS (Gibraltar’s Ornithological and Natural History Society) and there is now a £500 fine if anyone is caught feeding an ape. They are fed at locations around the Rock on a daily basis on a diet strictly observed by experts and though it may seem basic to you to the apes it is balanced for their health, well-being and teeth.”  http://www.gibraltarinfo.gi/gibraltar-apes.aspx

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They are there to greet you when you arrive on the cable car.

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Pedestal for a pillow? 

It seems to need some explanation as to why the pedestal, though it is a place that attracts tourists just outside the café.  And tourists sometimes offer food. 

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I didn’t notice as I took the photo, but looking at it afterwards: not a safe place to sit!

They must have no fear of heights or falling.

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Hide and seek

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Mind your head sign (getting on to the cable car ramp.)

On the subway in Singapore a voice would tell you to Mind the Gap which was the space between the train and the platform.  I also loved the Max Headroom signs.  Britishism are fun!

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Half way

Randal and I were in the front so we had a great view riding up.  There was much you could do at the top, but we really just walked around, took photos of the “Barbary Apes”, ate some lunch and rode down again.  I’m really not so much of a military history buff so just seeing the views and the apes was enough.

“Perched on the very summit of the Rock of Gibraltar, with the sheer cliffs of the east face of the Rock to one side of the building and steep slopes leading to the City of Gibraltar on the west on the other is the Top Station of the Cable Car.

      From this spot one has uninterrupted views southwards across the Straits of Gibraltar to Africa; westwards, of the City of Gibraltar and across the Bay to Algeciras; a birds eye view of Gibraltar airport and Spain to the north; and the blue expanse of the Mediterranean and the beaches and cities of the Costa del Sol to the east.

     Every corner of the Rock oozes with history and it is worthwhile to take the time to find out a little about what you are looking at by either listening to a commentary on multilingual tapes available at the Top Station or by combining your trip on the Cable Car with a tour of the Rock.

      You might learn for example about the spot where Admiral Nelson’s body was brought ashore after his victory at the Battle of Trafalgar, or of the many tunnels inside the Rock from where General Eisenhower masterminded the invasion of North Africa in World War II, or of the fact that parts of the first Cable Car to be built in Gibraltar can still be seen (although it took the form of a basket into which a man or some ammunition might by transported to the gun emplacements which used to be located close to the site of the existing Top Station).

The present Cable Car was originally constructed in April 1966 by Von Roll of Switzerland, and was extensively refurbished by the manufacturers in 1986.  Within the Top Station complex there is a Self Service Restaurant, English Pub and Souvenir Shop where you can have a meal or a drink whilst enjoying the views on one of the many panoramic terraces.

For the more technically minded, here are some technical data:

Track length between terminal stations: 673m

Vertical rise between stations: 352m

Number or towers: 3

Number of cabins: 2

Capacity of cabins: 30 + 1 attendant

Travelling speed: 5 m/sec 

http://www.gibraltar.gi/tourism/?language=en&category=1&item=15

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Africa in the distance; just about the middle of the photo below the clouds.

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Looking down at Spain, La Linea, Alcaidesa Marina

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and Doramac!

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Randal and The Rock

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Remains of old cable car at Signal Station.

The battery was later removed and built over by the Gibraltar Cable Car top station, however there are remains of an earlier cable station that was used to bring supplies (or a brave man) up to the top of Signal Hill. Besides the remains of earlier military buildings there is also a short tunnel that runs east to west.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Signal_Hill_Battery,_Gibraltar

Signal Hill Battery, Gibraltar  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Signal_Hill_Battery,_Gibraltar

Part of Fortifications of Gibraltar

Signal Hill Battery is now Cable Car

Old Ordnance Survey map showing depicting Signal Hill Battery with superimposed red area showing the footprint of the Gibraltar Cable Car top station.

Type

Artillery Battery

Coordinates

36.134307°N 5.345732°WCoordinates: 36.134307°N 5.345732°W

Built 1727 Current condition  Built upon

Current owner Government of Gibraltar

Signal battery tunnel nissan hut remains.

The remains of the Nissen hut within the battery’s tunnel.

Signal Hill Battery or Signal Battery was an artillery battery in the British Overseas Territory of Gibraltar. The battery was mounted high on the rock.[1] Little remains today as the Gibraltar Cable Car top station was built on the site of the old battery.

The top of the Rock of Gibraltar is a natural site for a signal station and the 1,200 feet (370 m) high Signal Hill has had a Signal Station since at least 1727. In 1773 it had its first 6-pounder gun installed.[2] The added height gave the gun an extra range and it could also fire in any direction. However, in Gibraltar height can be a disadvantage as the levanter cloud can remove the gunners’ visibility.

By 1892 the gun had been updated to a BL 6 inch QF gun mounted on a Vavasseur mounting. Seven years later a second gun was added and after two more years there were four 6 inch guns and two QF 12 pounder 12 cwt gun. The latter two had depression mountings allowing them to be fired down the side of the Rock but they were removed by 1906.

Remains of old cable car at Signal Station.

During World War II the Rock was a target for air raids and two 3 inch 30 cwt anti-aircraft guns were mounted on the hill together with a Bofors 40 mm gun.

The battery was later removed and built over by the Gibraltar Cable Car top station, however there are remains of an earlier cable station that was used to bring supplies (or a brave man) up to the top of Signal Hill. Besides the remains of earlier military buildings there is also a short tunnel that runs east to west

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Alma And The Eagle  83

I saw this and was curious which actually led me to the information about Signal Hill and the following…

though not the explanation about Alma and the Eagle 83

“It was whilst deployed at Signal Hill that they shot down their first enemy bomber, on the night of the 20th August 1940. The entry in the unit’s War Diary reads as follows:

"Third bombing raid over Gibraltar, first plane came over at 23.30 hours and was picked up by searchlights at the moment of bomb release. It kept a steady course and AA fire was opened. Plane was hit and brought down in the straits".

http://royalgibraltarregiment.gi/history_gibraltar_defence_force.php

 

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Looking down from the top at the pink roofed hotel where Randal stayed in 2000 on his world bike ride.

He’d actually taken the cable car up then but wanted to go again so I could see.  

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Building a breakwater

The sounds of the workmen carried all the way to where we stood watching. 

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Graffiti in one of the abandoned buildings

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Oregonians

We met these two “just graduated college” fellows getting on the red bus in Spain to go to Gibraltar.

We remet them just here but wish we’d gotten to them sooner as a macaque had jumped on the taller ones shoulder.  They were on a month’s holiday before going back to figure out their lives.  I told them to find something they cared about as it was a long time till retirement.  They responded that it was exactly that to which they were giving much thought.  They reminded me of the young men we’d met in Greece who were trying to also sort out their lives.  Interesting thing that I can’t remember meeting any young women, except one in India on sabattacal from teaching dance at a community college.  Maybe I just haven’t noticed. 

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The Rock at night from the flybridge of DoraMac

“When you first see the Rock of Gibraltar, whether it is from the air, from the sea or from the Costa del Sol, it is its impressive stature, towering isolated above the surrounding countryside, that causes the greatest impact. It has had this effect on people for many thousands of years. Gibraltar is a beacon which signals the position of the Strait of Gibraltar, the narrow neck which separates Europe from Africa and provides the only link between the Atlantic Ocean and the Mediterranean Sea. Through the following text you will be given a dated account of all the historical moments of importance involving Gibraltar.”

https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/history  Go to the Gibraltar web site to read the entire history.

“The Rock was formed; more or less in the shape we see it today, by a massive upheaval of the earth about 200 million years ago. While dinosaurs roamed, the earth’s plates which formed Africa and Europe collided and a massive lump of Jurassic limestone was forced up from the sea and flipped over. The top ridge of Gibraltar was once far below the sea and is made from millions of compressed seashells.

     Not just on the outside but on the inside too! Rainwater filtered through and cracks, fissures, caves and eventually huge caverns including St Michael’s Cave were formed.

     Those who use the expression ‘Solid as the Rock of Gibraltar’ stand to be reminded that it is in fact honeycombed by history – riddled with natural caves and, much later, tunnelled by man to a total of 50km of passages.”  https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/heritage

https://www.gibraltar.gov.gi/about-gibraltar gives you lots of other info

1830 AD

Gibraltar is declared a Crown Colony.

1848 AD

A skull was found in the Forbes’s Quarry at the foot of the sheer north face of the Rock of Gibraltar. Nobody knew it at the time but it belonged not to a modern human, like us, but to a prehistoric form. It was sent to the UK where it was conserved. Eight years later in the Neander Valley near Dusseldorf in Germany another was found giving this human its name – instead of Gibraltar Man it became Neanderthal Man.

1940 AD

As a consequence of the Second World War, which broke out in 1939, the civilian population is evacuated to Britain, Jamaica and Madeira, in order for Gibraltar to be fortified against the possibility of a German attack. By 1942 there are over 30,000 British soldiers, sailors and airmen on the Rock. The repatriation of the civilians started in 1944 and proceeded for some six years although the majority had returned by 1946

Some photos of La Linea

Hola

   So it looks as if we’ll be here another week because the weather gods, very kind to us on our way here, are being less kind about our wanting to leave.  But when you cruise you have to play by the rules of the weather gods or you lose.  Speaking of losing, the Sox need to get themselves together here…not doing so well which is a July pattern they have. 

    We went to Gibraltar last night and had dinner on our friends Sue and Ed’s boat to talk about the London passage.  About 8:30ish  Randal and I left their boat and just serendipitously  caught the last bus back from Queensway Quay to the bus terminal and the last bus from the bus terminal to the border.  (We’d only looked at the schedule going to Queensway Quay and not the return schedule.) At one stop a woman had a long discussion with the driver, I assume about whether it was the correct bus for her.   They were speaking in Spanish so I don’t know.  After a bit she turned to me and explained that they were talking about chickens.  She’d been raised with chickens so had been raised with fresh eggs.  She was lamenting that now everything was grown in mass and hot houses so nothing was really fresh or seasonal.  She said watermelon and grapes were for the summer.  Oranges were for the winter.  And don’t get her started on tomatoes!  It was quite interesting and quite true.  Once upon a time we looked forward to summer and all of the summer fruit and vegetables.  They were a treat, well at least the fruit was a treat as who liked vegetables as a kid.  Now we get those tennis ball tomatoes all year round.  Actually you can buy anything all year round; most of it tasteless or more expensive than it’s worth. In Marmaris we learned to eat seasonally because that’s what was fresh in the produce markets.  Pretty much everything green always tasted great because it was in season.  Tomatoes and strawberries are a crap shoot no matter where you get them unless you grow your own or are lucky enough to have friends who grow too many. 

The best part of La Linea is that it’s a real place, not a recently created tourist destination.  Maybe that’s why the marina is quiet at night which is such a treat!  It’s not only cool enough to just sleep with the portholes and hatch open, but in the late evening and early morning you need a sweater because the breeze is cool. In the Centro there aren’t big crowds so there are no hawkers trying to push you to buy something.  As a matter of fact, between 2 pm and 5 pm you’re hard pressed to find any shops open at all. That’s the worst part.  I don’t know if these are summer hours or year round hours.   The big grocery store Mercadona is open from 9 am until 9:30 pm for the summer.  I think if the folks who run Mercadona ran the countries of Spain, Italy and Greece there might not be a monetary crisis.  Shops do reopen (some of them) at 6 pm so maybe it all works out the same.  Just something to get used to I guess.   I actually like the small town and this wouldn’t be a bad place to winter, especially with such easy access to Gibraltar and all things in English like book shops and libraries.  But we’ll be “on the road again’ so to speak fairly soon as we zoom our way to London, as much as you can zoom at 6 knots anyway. 

Ru

http://www.andalucia.com/province/cadiz/la-linea/home.htm gives a description aimed at tourists.

     The political separation between The Rock and the mainland dates back three centuries to the time when Gibraltar was an important naval port. It has not always been clear sailing between Spain and Britain and they have been battling over ownership of The Rock since 1704. This culminated in the total closure of the border from 1969 to 1982. When the border restrictions were lifted in 1985, many people moved from Gibraltar to La Línea, preferring to live on the Spanish mainland which had a lower cost of living.

     Because Britain had won sovereignty rights over Gibraltar, King Felipe V built up fortifications in La Línea and in the process he created the town. To this day on Playa Levante (Levante Beach) you can still see the ruins of one of the last fortifications from the this time.

     La Línea suffered much destruction by the British during the Peninsular War of 1808-14, and there was even a threat that the French might take the town. There remains a point of historic interest in the form of the watchtower dating back to the 17 th century which still stands on Levante Beach. You can also see the remains of an extensive bunker system from the World War II, adding to the interesting history of this fascinating town.

     In recent years the town has become ever more popular both as a permanent residence and also as a tourist destination. The nearby area of  Alcaidesa combines luxurious golf course and residential development. When linked to the many improvements made within La Línea itself, there are many reasons why the area is attracting so many people.

     The two following web articles make things sound quite dire in La Linea though I don’t see the gloom and doom described here.

http://www.spiegel.de/

http://www.spiegel.de/

Plaza de la Iglesia

One of my favorite places here because it really feels like the Spain in my  imagination.  The church and open space and restaurants and statue of the three Spanish women.

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Shrine of the Immaculate Conception

“The main Parish church was built in the 19th century colonial style. Notable features are the 17th-century reredos and the image of St. Mary made by the Andalusian sculptor Luis Ortega Bru. The church became a shrine at the end of 2005. The Church of the Immaculate Conception has three naves. The exterior of the building echoes the interior layout, with a remarkable simplicity and beauty.

   Inside the parish church of the Immaculate Conception there are images of Jesús del Gran Poder, and others belonging to four religious guilds.

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The Three Graces

“The Three Graces is a Monument at the Plaza de la Iglesia that is based on the Greek mythology of the three Charites, which represent charm, beauty, and creativity. This work by Nacho Falgueras is based on that by the local painter José Cruz Herrera. The recently opened monument is a tribute to the "linense" women.”

https://en.wikipedia.org/

Just off from the plaza is “restaurant row.”  We ate lunch there one day ant that especially spurred me to buy a Spanish dictionary.  We ordered and had no clue; the waitress spoke no English. Something in my head made me think jamon was something to do with ham and that was correct.  We’d decided to split a baguette so opted for the most expensive thinking it would have the most filling.  Wrong.

 

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You know how restaurants name things like after people or places, “New England clam chowder” or  Manhattan clam chowder.  That is so unhelpful to people who have to use a dictionary to find out what they are ordering.  Milk, broth, and potato would be so much more helpful than “New England.”  And tomato based instead of Manhattan.    Next time I’ll try the Salmon y Queso de Burgos, salmon and cheese of Burgos.  I think Burgos is like New England and Manhattan, something you just have to know.

Interestingly Atun is tuna with the letters switched around.  In Turkey Tuna meant Danube. 

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Our ham and baguette sandwich

There was some kind of spread, but all of those words following jamon meant pretty much nothing as far as I could tell.  None of them meant lettuce, tomato, cheese, pickle, chips.  Won’t need to order that again especially as I noticed a sandwich below that says jamon york which according to my dictionary means cooked ham.  It also lists Jamon Serrano as cured ham.  So what did we get?  I’m afraid to think as it looked sort of rawish to me.  But we had no aftershocks from it so whatever it was, it didn’t kill us and it actually tasted quite good, if a bit plain.

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Horse and carriage ride.

World War 2 bunkers in the park just near the Centro and the Mercadona supermarket.

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Pretty yucky now.

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I don’t know if this is modern graffiti or was part of the original construction.

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Art deco type building near the Mercadona supermacado.

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Do it yourself weighing and pricing.

The black number tells you the item’s number.  Bulk cucumbers and the price has been lowered from 1.29 Euro to 1,00. 

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You put the cucumbers in a bag on the scale and hit number 67 and a price tag comes out that you stick on the bag.  So much better than waiting for a produce person or holding up the check-out line for things to be weighed. 

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He thought it was so funny I was taking his photo.

Not sure what this actually is because it doesn’t say jamon on the sign.

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Municipal Public Library but I’ve never seen it open; I’ll have to ask the helpful lady at the tourist office if this is indeed the library.

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Playground out front.

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Tiny amusement area near the marina café which seems a strange location as I’ve seen very few kids here. Sponge Bob Square Pants seems to been popular around the world too.

Memories of China and the bubble on the lake in the park.

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This one was different, more a like a gerbil wheel than a ball so air could get inside.

I doubt Randal and I will try it.  He wouldn’t even do the bubble; only our Chinese friends came with me.