NMYC Yacht Club, Deggendorf

Guten Abend,

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Deggendorf

http://www.deggendorf.de official town brochure.

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Roses are blooming everywhere.  And in the town center this flower map of Europe. 

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“The Old Town Hall with its gothic tower was erected in 1535, and is one of the emblems of Deggendorf.  The flagstones bearing the Bavarian crest on the stepped gable are noteworthy, as is the town crest dating from the town’s founding, as well as the window ledges with their fascinating mythical animals and gargoyles.  The two stone balls connected with chains (medieval torture devices) and hanging from the southern façade are also steeped in history.  The historic tower warden’s lodgings can be viewed during a guided tour.”  (None in Englisn)   Deggendorf Tourist Map

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The information office where I got the map and town brochure is housed in the Old Town Hall

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Window ledges with the gargoyles  was hard to find until I stood directly underneath.

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The stone balls were definitely disappointing and I’m not sure these are they except there were no other choices.  The other one is on the other side of the building but no chain joined them.

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The original sundial was from 1535 when the southern and representative part of the Town Hall was erected.   A new sundial replaced that one in 1926 and was renovated in 1956. 

The Sundial inscription offers this advice: “Do it like the sundial, just count the hours of sunshine. 

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I walked all around the Old Town Hall not finding either the stone balls or the gargoyles.  Across the way was a book shop with post cards.  I thought I’d ask if there was a post card of the stone balls so I’d match it up to the building and know where to look for them.  The book seller had no postcards of the gruesome objects, but was really nice and came with me to look for the stone balls.  We both agreed they were the round things on the side of the building up near the clock.  She said she was a native but hadn’t really looked for either the stone balls or the gargoyles. 

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The helpful book seller helped me more than the woman in the Information Office.  I did buy some postcards and the weekend International Edition of the NYT.

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Sunday we’d eaten lunch at one of the restaurants  now  housed in part of the Old Town Hall.  This billed itself as camembert but I think it was fried mozzarella covered with bread crumbs.  It came with salad, cranberry sauce and white toast.  I ate it all except for the white toast. 

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The temptation of ice cream is everywhere in Germany. 

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Want to trade?  Me either.  Randal had a banana ice cream cone which didn’t tempt me to ask for a taste at all.  I took the photos while they all ate ice cream.  I’m trying to make my cholesterol go down, not up. Thankfully ice cream isn’t a real temptation.

Neighborhoods just off the main square.

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The Merchant Shipping Master’s House just a 5 minute walk from DoraMac

“….. a listed building and one of Deggendorf’s oldest residential buildings.  Its foundation date back to the Middle Ages.  Its present appearance dates back to the 18th century.  A variety of exhibitions on the topic of water, health, the environment, and energy takes place here.  It also provides a rest area for cyclists.”  Deggendorf Town tourist map

Shipmaster‘s house

www.schiffmeisterhaus.de

Much of the focus in the exhibits is about the past flooding of the Danube.  It is flooding further along in Serbia and Bulgaria but here it’s lower than normal.

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Teaching school children about the flooding and responses.

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2002 floods

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1924 floods

And not to dwell on, but not to ignore….

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deggendorf  talks about the sad Jewish history of Deggendorf which is not mentioned in the official town brochure.  The Hi Grabkirche had a large plaque in German  telling the tale of the massacre and decrying the falsehoods spread about the Jews. 

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Guten Morgen….

   Our definition of a good morning has totally changed.  Once upon a time “good” was bright sun and no rain in the forecast.  Now it’s just the opposite.  We need several days of rain to raise the water level of the Danube or we’ll have to race through the rest of the Schengen countries so as not to outstay our 90 days.  Thankfully Romania, Bulgaria, and Serbia aren’t part of Schengen, at least they weren’t the last time I looked at the US State Department list.  So when we finally get there we can spend as much time as we want.  But my  goal is to get to Turkey, get the boat in ship shape, and get it sold, so being forced to stay put when we want to be moving down river is rather depressing.  Far worse things are happening to far too many people around the world so whining about having to stay too long here in Deggendorf seems rather self-indulgent.  Shows what an easy life I have! 

   I’ve been catching up on my reading and have downloaded several books to my Kindle because we do have great FREE wifi here so I can search around Amazon for books to read.  And I do have Annie Dillard’s Pilgrim at Tinker Creek to remind me that one day we’ll live back in Roanoke on our mountainside.

    This past week Mary, Rick and I took the “forest train” up into the mountains for a day hike.  And we’ve been around town several times so know it quite well.  The local library is really nice and I may go one day to look at their art collection.  It will be in German but I can look and learn. 

   So that’s what is and isn’t happening with us.

Happy Summer!

Ru

Deggendorf NMYC

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Ernst Erdl’s bike on the grass verge overlooking the harbor area just off the Danube and Ernst and Randal on our flybridge.

Ernst was also waiting for enough water to continue to Vienna and then Greece.

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This is where we were tied up our first two nights until the visitor berth became available and we realized we’d be here a while so needed power and water available at the dock. 

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Bow to the rock and attached with lots of lines.

A high stone wall and railroad tracks separates the yacht club from the club’s shower block.  You must also climb up, over and down the wall to get to town.  The gate is kept locked when no one is around but we have access to the visitor’s key as well as the keys to the shower block.

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The small, square, sparkling clean building is the shower/toilet block.  Randal and I always shower on DoraMac but Rick and Mary prefer marina showers where there is an unlimited amount of hot water.  When 4 people shower as we did when Charmaine and Linda visited us, you have to use the water more sparingly or wait for the hot water tank to refill.   In the heat of Israel, you really didn’t need much hot water anyway. 

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The club building where many of the members gather to eat their meals or watch the World Cup now.  On June 26th Germany and the U S face off.  We all might have to go watch that game.  The weather forecast is just for sunny weather until the very end of the month and the beginning of July!

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Randal, Rick and Karen

Karen is a member of the yacht club and kindly offered to drive us to the “too far to walk to, big supermarket.”

Later in the day she and her husband and the “harbor master” and his wife came on board for a tour. 

Everyone here, and they’ve been together for about 20 years, are very friendly and welcoming.  We have definitely found that cruising communities around the world are very supportive.  Our Diesel Duck is really the “odd duck” along the river so helps us make friends.  Everyone is curious and wants a tour which we’re happy to oblige. 

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Another horribly bright and sunny day in Deggendorf

Guten Morgen,

   So here we still are.  Some rain in the forecast for this week.  Certainly hope so.  This email is about the Deggendorf Public Library and some public art.  Next email more photos of the town center.

Ru

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Deggendorf Library

“The town library is one of Bavaria’s most architecturally beautiful libraries.  Around 70,000 items and a variety of events invite one to linger.”  M-F 10 to 6; Saturday 10 to 12 noon.  Deggendorf Tourist Map

The library seemed pretty busy which was nice to see.  Wonder if the evening and Saturday hours change during the school year? 

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No hands needed door!  It senses that you’re there and opens. 

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The main desk over which is a sky light and the sculpture of a tight rope walker.  Not sure what’s upstairs but I’ll look next visit.

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A wonderfully decorated kids room. 

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Next door is the Town Museum.  Across the road is The Museum of Crafts and Trade is just near the round fountain but nothing is available in English so we didn’t buy the ticket needed for entry. 

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Funny art : ice cream advert and someone’s “treasure” in a window. 

Around town are different sculptures so Randal and I set off to find them.

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Sculpture of Sammer Xidi who is described as a “mushroom expert and colorful Deggendorf character.”

You can drink the water from the fountain at his feet.  During the week there are food stalls set up in the town square.  On Sunday it’s just Sammer Xidi.

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Dumpling Fountain 

She saved the town but is still only referred to as “the Mayor’s wife” rather than by her name.

A fountain in the old town centre commemorates the legend of the “dumpling hurler“.  In 1266 Deggendorf was saved from being overrun by Ottokar of Bohemia after the mayor‘s wife drove off an enemy spy by throwing a dumpling at him.  After hearing that the inhabitants were using food

to bombard their attackers, the enemy troops concluded a siege would be useless and withdrew.”

http://www.deggendorf.de/ official town brochure.

Reading about the dumplings made me think of a similar latke story.  I thought I remembered something about throwing latkes at the enemy but this more interesting legend of Judith and the Assyrians is what I found.

The Latke Tale

Did you know that latkes were originally made with cheese? Legend has it that in the 16th century, a young widow, Judith, fed the Assyrian general Holofernes salty cheese latkes so he would thirst for more wine and become intoxicated.  It worked and she beheaded him in his stupor, which allowed the Jews to defeat the leaderless Assyrians. It wasn’t until the mid-19th century when potatoes began to be farmed that latkes were made from potatoes. However, the most important element is the oil that is used to fry the latkes, which symbolizes the holiday miracle in which one day’s worth of oil illuminated the Holy Temple for eight days when the Jews recaptured it in Jerusalem in 165 B.C.

http://www.lindasgourmetlatkes.com/latkisms.html

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“Rosa” the Sow with the shiny spots where she has been rubbed. Her shoulder and nose.

“Called “Rosa” by the citizens of Deggendorf.  This location in the Pfleggasse is a reminder of the piglet market once regularly held here.”

Deggendorf Tourist Map

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Schorsch Karmann Glassmeisier 1884-1959

http://axinte.de/persona_eng.htm  website of the artist of the glass maker; the sculpture was sponsored by the town of Deggendorf Savings Bank.    This was added in 2012 and wasn’t on the map or mentioned in the tourist booklet.  We found it looking for the Post Office.

     “The first glassmakers in Germany were brought here by the Romans, but after they left, it wasn’t until the Middle Ages that Germans rediscovered the art of making glass. By the end of the 17th century, there were about 60 glass factories and the area in the eastern part of Bavaria gradually developed into an important center for glassmaking.    http://discoveringbavaria.com/The-Glass-Road.html

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NMYC Yacht Club, Deggendorf

Guten Tag,

   Tomorrow we’re going to talk with the kind Port Master and ask his opinion about the river depths.  Our info leads us to believe the river is too shallow.  But our AIS shows really large cargo ships passing Deggendorf going down river.  So we’ll see.  The weather forecast shows rain mid-week and hopefully we’ll get it and a lot of it. 

   We’re certainly getting to know Deggendorf.  Today while we were out for a stroll I checked the library hours and will visit to flip through some art books.  Randal and I stopped in the other day and it is a very nice library. 

   This email is about our day in the Bavarian National Forest.

Ru

Bavarian Forest National Park

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We followed the buzzard path.

Trails are very well marked especially when 3 pairs of eyes are looking.

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We passed this tree covered with what looked like very solid fungi and it reminded me of the artist I’d talked to in Bayerisch Eisenstein at the art gallery just near the trail.  I believe he said it was ash.  He has spent time in the US with different tribes of Native Americans.  Unfortunately the gallery wasn’t open when we passed by. 

The long awaited art gallery, Kunsträume grenzenlos,    https://de-de.facebook.com/KunstraumeGrenzenlos   opens its doors on Sunday 28th July 2013. With over 600 m2 of gallery space visitors will be able to enjoy works by contemporary painters, graphic artists, sculptors, glassmakers and more from both sides of the border as well as retrospectives of older artists from the region.

The first exhibitions, until 11th November, are by reknowned artists; Walter Mochizuki (1913-1999), co-founder of the Donau-Wald-Gruppe (artists association), Czech painter Jindřich Bilek, Vit Pavlik and the sculptor Václav Fiala.

There is also a gallery shop with a selection of local produce, regional craft products in glass or wood and more.

The gallery is located 100m from the German/Czech border next to the village train station at; Bahnhofstrasse 52, 94252 Bayerisch Eisenstein.

http://bavarianholidays.co.uk/

We’d left DoraMac and walked to the train station which was a hike itself.  The train trip was 50 minutes.  We spent a bit of time looking for trail information, buying water, visiting with the sculpture and finally starting our hike at 10:40.  We hiked through the woods aiming for lunch at the Schwellhausl Inn. 

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Schwellhäusl Inn for lunch.

“In our historic inn "Schwellhäusl", a popular destination among Zwieselerwaldhaus ArberLand, Bayerischer Wald, in the middle of National Park Bavarian Forest, you can wonderfully relax from everyday stress.

We pamper our guests with bavarian "Brotzeiten*", spicy lunch, coffee and cakes. (*=little solid bavarian snacks)”

http://www.schwellhaeusl.de/en/

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There was a huge lunch crowd so we shared a table which is lots of fun because you get to chat with people who are usually quite friendly. 

This glass sculpture had both Hebrew and German and my guess, “The Ten Commandments.” 

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Carved wood and deer antlers.  A German version of the Peaks of Otter and Maybry Mill on the Blue Ridge Parkway.

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Not Maybry Mill Buckwheat Pancakes.

Heavy duty buckwheat pancakes to start off an 80 mile bike ride weren’t a good idea and neither were these dumplings.  I was trying to avoid the heavy meat dishes!  None of us was exactly sure what it would be except for the vanilla sauce and the marmalade.  I was thinking it might be some kind of noodle.  But it was really three large servings of steamed bread with marmalade in the center surrounded by a thin vanilla pudding.  I ordered it “by mistake” but the couple sharing the table ordered it on purpose.  An acquired taste maybe.  Or maybe this wasn’t such a prime example. 

Germknödel ([ˈɡɛɐ̯mˌknøːdl̩], Austrian German for yeast dumpling) is a fluffy (mine was definitely not fluffy) yeast dough dumpling with a mix of poppy seeds and sugar, filled with spicy plum jam and melted butter on top, occasionally - even though less traditional - also served with vanilla cream sauce. It is a culinary speciality of Austria and Bavaria. The dish is served both as a dessert and as a main course.

Germknödel is usually a spherical or bun-shaped dessert. The dessert’s main ingredient is a yeast dough with sugar and fat, usually butter, added to the dough. The dumpling is filled with Powidl, a sweet and spicy plum jam. The dumpling is steamed and then served still hot with either melted butter or vanilla dessert sauce, and topped with crushed poppy seeds and sugar.

The main difference between Germknödel and a related dish, Dampfnudeln, is that the former is either steamed or boiled whereas the latter is cooked in a deep pan.   Wikipedia

http://www.nationalpark-bayerischer-wald.de/

In the area around the Gro?er Falkenstein protected areas came into being a very long time in the past, in places more than 200 years ago, and which are today among the most important and oldest remnants of primeval forest in central Europe. For visitors to the national park they can be counted amongst the big attractions alongside the mountain summits and the pastures (Schachten) in the north western part of the national park. They are connected by particularly attractive hiking trails.

We are delighted that you are visiting the forest wilderness of the Bavarian Forest around the Lusen, Rachel and Falkenstein mountains; it’s a forest in which nature decides how it develops and in which the fascinating interplay between animals and plants runs its own course. As in ancient forests, life and death are inseparably linked; one brings about the other.

As Germany’s oldest national park, nature has flourished here for more than 40 years pretty much undisturbed by human interventions. Forests, meadows, rocks and mires form a unique and captivating natural landscape. You can experience this fascinating and unparalleled forest nature in all its diversity with us.

Bavarian Forest, Bohemian Forest, Šumava are differing names for one and the same ancient mountainous region in central Europe, the use varying according to cultural, geographical or historical reference. A mighty bulwark of hard gneiss and granite rock, it divides Bavaria from Bohemia and the catchment area of the Danube from that of the Vltava. State and linguistic borders between Germany and the Czech Republic run along its main ridge, as does the boundary between the Bavarian Forest and Šumava National Parks.

The landscape with its rounded and long mountain domes, the gently climbing slopes, plateau-like heights and hollow-like valleys are evidence of a long history of weathering and shaping through the ice ages.

http://www.nationalpark-bayerischer-wald.de/

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Wikipedia photo

The train was very comfortable with roomy seats and a “WC.”  Folks had bikes, dogs, and backpacking gear. 

“The Bavarian Forest Railway (Bayerische Waldbahn often just called the Waldbahn) links the heart of the Bavarian Forest around Regen and Zwiesel to Plattling and the Danube valley on one side, and the Czech Republic through Bayerisch Eisenstein on the other. In the Danube valley it forms a junction with the Nuremberg–Regensburg–Passau long distance railway and, to the south, regional lines to Landshut and Munich.”

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bavarian_Forest_Railway

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NMYC Yacht Club

Deggendorf

Guten Abend,

    Every now and then we “camp out”  and really enjoy it.   Once in the Netherlands just past a lock and a few nights ago on our way to Deggendorf.  It actually is quite a treat to be “out in nature” as they say here in Europe.  However, for spending several days (not really sure how many at this point) waiting for water levels to rise, a town in a better choice. 

     We left Marina Saal thinking we might anchor near Walhalla but Randal didn’t feel comfortable anchoring at that point in the river so we continued on tying up in the sport boat waiting place at Geisling Lock.

Ru

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The Walhalla is a hall of fame that honors laudable and distinguished people, famous personalities in German history – politicians, sovereigns, scientists and artists of the German tongue". Wikipedia

We would have anchored and then taken the dinghy ashore.  But it wasn’t to be so we may rent a car and drive back to visit. 

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Waiting place for sport boats; we tied up for the night.

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It was a lovely place to spend the night with a cycling/walking path along the river and farm fields along the path.  We took a late afternoon stroll. 

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Poppies

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In the evening we went walking the opposite direction.

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Back to DoraMac

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10 PM and all was quiet

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NMYC Yacht Club

Deggendorf

Guten Tag,

   We’ve been  “stranded” in Deggendorf since the afternoon of the 16th.   We had planned an overnight stop, but  there’s just not enough water in the Danube for us to continue downstream.  We actually scrapped bottom on our way here.  Thankfully there is one visitor berth here at the NMYC Yacht Club so we have power, water and wifi!  We could have been “stranded” at the previous overnight spot which was just the other side of the Schleuse Geisling.  We had tied up at the entrance to the lock which was lovely but with no services such as water or power.  Had we been forced to remain there for as long as we might be in Deggendorf, we’d be eating our can goods just now.  If necessary we can generate our own power and make water.  Thankfully it didn’t come to that because we managed to “limp” into Deggendorf.  We need 2 meters of water under us to avoid scraping bottom.  Right now  there’s just about 2 meters in the channel if we stayed exactly in the deepest part of the river.  But the river bottom for the next bit to Passau isn’t so forgiving so scraping bottom wouldn’t be a good thing. 

   Although there has been flooding on the Danube in Serbia, Rumania and Bulgaria, our part of the river is too dry.  River traffic continues because the giant barges and cruise ships actually need less water under them.  It’s only boats like ours with deep keels that have the problem. 

    But the grocery stores are within walking distance and the town center has coffee shops in its quaint center.  So we could be doing much worse. 

This email is about Reggensburg, our stop prior to Deggendorf.

Ru

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Randal was persuaded to get out his guitar by Linda, Wolfgang, Gitty and Franc; the wonderful and helpful folks we met at Marina Saal.  Our first afternoon there, Linda who is Irish by birth so of course fluent in English, arrange for Gitty to drive us to the grocery store.   Later that evening, Linda and her partner Wolfgang, the marina manager and Gitty and her partner Franc came for a visit.  

   The marina is great and the folks with boat there very friendly.  We were all invited to an informal party the night of our trip to Regensberg; but only Rick and Mary, the partiers among us, took part.  Randal and I were pooped and enjoyed a quiet evening on the boat catching up on email and reading.   Not only was Marina Saal able to accommodate a boat our size, which Wolfgang called an “icebreaker” but there was wifi and electricity, and water and showers …..   A great place to stop along the way. 

http://www.marinasaal.de/

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Off to Regensburg by train

Finding the train station in Saal was an adventure in itself…as was the way home at the end of the day.

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Lots of cyclist were taking advantage of bicycle transport on the trains.  When my friend Martha and I toured England you had to hunt for the baggage car and then lift your pannier laden bike up almost two feet onto the train.  These trains allow you to pretty much wheel your bike right on.   The fun thing to do would be to take the train a certain distance from home and then bike back or visa-versa depending on the time of year and weather.

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Hunting for souvenirs

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Walking towards the old town center

A Medieval Gem, Almost Lost Regensburg’s Old Town was once threatened by highway construction - By Edith Kresta 

http://www.atlantic-times.com/archive_detail.php?recordID=1503

http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1155 is the UNESCO description of Regensburg which is on the World Heritage list.

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Regensburg: Goliath House

     “The ‘Goliath House’ (Goliathhaus), built in 1260, is considered one of the most well-known landmarks of Regensburg with its painting of David and Goliath done in 1573. Along with the Haus Heuport, this is the largest ‘city castle’ with in the inner city and is located on the southern base of the old roman fort. The name is likely not derived from the biblical epic, but rather from the name ‘Goliards’. Theology students were called Goliards as their guardian angel was called Golias. It is believed that the present Goliath house was built on the location of the quarters in which these traveling theology students often stayed during the 12th century. This current house would over time belong to many patrician families such as: Dollingers, Mallers and the Nuremberger family.”

http://www.regensburger-touristen-guide.de/en,bauwerke,6,goliathhaus/

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Garden dwarfs Revolution was painted on a wall not far from David and Goliath

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The former Jewish quarter in Regensburg…

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Memorial to the former synagogue

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     “The Jewish quarter in Regensburg is first mentioned in a document dating from ca. 1000 A.D.. This is the earliest mention of a Jewish settlement in Germany. For over 500 years they lived here largely free of persecution and pogroms, and left their mark on the history of Regensburg. The Jewish quarter (on today’s Neupfarrplatz) comprised about 39 houses and several public buildings, including a synagogue. The community had its own administration, seal and judge.

In 1196 Rabbi Jehuda ben Samuel he-Chasid came to Regensburg and founded a famous Talmud school which became the centre of Middle European Jewish live for years.

By the end of the 15th century tension between Jews and Christians was beginning to increase. A few weeks after the death of Emperor Maximilian I, under whose rule Jews had enjoyed protection, the town council decided to expel all Jews from Regensburg. Therefore, in 1519, the Jewish quarter was razed to the ground and a pilgrimage chapel was built on where the synagogue used to be.

Between 1995 and 1998 the most extensive excavations within the Regensburg city centre to date were carried out on this approximately 3000 m² site. In the course of these excavations the remains of cellars belonging to houses and buildings of the Jewish quarter were exposed.

The most sensational find was the Gothic synagogue and the remains of the previous Romanesque synagogue. In several places the Roman layer could be investigated. With the help of the most modern technology, new knowledge about buildings techniques was gleaned, while numerous finds provided a wealth of information about everyday life in the medieval Jewish quarter.

The most spectacular find made during the 1995-98 excavations dates from the end of the 14th century, when the medieval Jewish community was at its peak: A treasure trove of 624 gold coins, found not far from where the document Neupfarrplatz is located.

In 2005, the Israeli sculptor Dani Karavan erected a memorial on the exact spot of the former synagogue on Neupfarrplatz. The so-called “Place of Encounter” is a reminder of Christians and Jews living together, and a reproduction of the layout of the synagogue in an artistic manner. It brings home an important chapter of Regensburg’s history.

Today, people of all religions come together here. Regensburg residents have accepted this place full of gratitude and respect. It is meant to be a sign and food for thought for their children and children’s children.

Hebrew characters in the area of the former torah shrine of the synagogue spell out the word “Misrach” (“place of lighting up” or “East“).

http://www.regensburg.com/

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The older man on the left was teaching the younger man on the right how to prepare a cigar for smoking.

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The Steinerne Brucke was covered with a current reconstruction project.

“The Bridge Arch and the Bridge Tower are part of the city expansion at about 1320.” Bridge Tower

Museum brochure.

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The oldest bridge left standing in Germany according to my MPM Danube guide.

“The "Stone Bridge" was constructed from 1135 to 1146 in romanesque style. The bridge was originally built with 16 supporting arches giving it a total length of 330 meters. The 16th arch is now no longer visible as it was eliminated with the building of the ‘Salzstadel’ on the city-side of the bridge. The arches have a width ranging from 10 to 17 meters and are equipped with steel icebreakers on the up river points of the pillars. Originally reinforced with stone in the river bed, the pillars are now supported by cement to create the legendary ‘regensburg danube whirlpools’. In the 13th century, the bridge was equipped with 3 fortified towers. The ‘black tower’ which was located on the ’stadtamhof’ side, was surrounded by a mote, a few smaller towers, and had a drawbridge connecting it to the north. These were torn down after heavy damage from the war in 1810. The middle tower was already unstable after ice impact in 1784, and had been removed. The only remaining tower today is the ‘bridge- or Schuldturm’ on the city or southern side. This tower is decorated with two clocks and painting depicting the 30-year Battle.Legend has it that the cathedral builder and the bridge builder had bet each other who would finish their projects first. As the construction of the cathedral began to progress much faster, the bridge builder decided to make a pact with the devil in order to win his bet. Although the devil did help him to win his bet, the bridge builder had to promise the devil the first 3 souls who would cross the bridge, and thus could not celebrate his victory in full fancy. However, a hooded monk wisely advised him to send 3 animals over the bridge first; 2 roosters and a dog were thus the first to cross the bridge. The devil was so furious that he had made a huge hole in the stone railing which could be seen for many years.”

http://www.regensburger-touristen-guide.de/en,bauwerke,1,steinerne_bruecke/

“Salt is one of the oldest commodities to have been traded. Roman soldiers often received their wages in salt, hence the word “salary.” Europe’s most important 13th-century trade route brought the salt from mines in Reichenhall to Regensburg. Adjacent to the bridge is the seven-story Salt Store, where salt was traded and warehoused.”

     Read more: Germany’s World Heritage Sites: Wurzburg, Bamberg and Regensburg | The Hunt Magazine http://thehuntmagazine.com/

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I could have stood and watched for hours. 

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Bavarian Cheese board lunch; sort of like the Ploughman’s lunch in England: cheese, bread, pickle and onion.  The cheese was a spread of maybe goat and blue, something very strong.   There was enough for all of us, but Randal, Mary and Rick had their own huge meals to deal with.  Luckily we did a lot of walking afterwards, including an “indirect” route back to the boat from the Saal train station.

Trying different food while traveling is more than about getting enough (or at times too many) calories.  Our friend Heidi’s column about food and travel tells the story best.

Heidi Trautmann Column 62 - Let’s talk about culture and….. traditional cuisine

5/3/2014

http://www.heiditrautmann.com/

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     “The area that is now Regensburg was the site of a 600-soldier Roman camp on a hill at the empire’s border in 90 AD. Emperor Marcus Aurelius established a stone Roman military fortification and trading post, Castra Regina, circa 179 AD. A portion of the northern Roman gate, the Porta Praetoria, is still visible.”

     Read more: Germany’s World Heritage Sites: Wurzburg, Bamberg and Regensburg | The Hunt Magazine http://thehuntmagazine.com

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Greenpeace volunteers in the town center.

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freytag & berndt  specialize in outdoor books, maps, etc.  Their chairs are discards from airplanes with seatbelts included.

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Town Hall building

Today, after numerous additions and alterations, you can admire the three-section building complex dating from the 13th century which consists of the Town Hall tower, the Gothic Imperial Chamber building and the baroque Town Hall. From 1663 to 1806 the Perpetual Imperial Assembly met in the Imperial Chamber. It was there that the well-known expressions “to put something on the long bench” (to postpone something) and “to sit at the green table” (to take important decisions) originated.

Visit the imperial assembly hall and the torture chamber in the cellar where persons charged with an offense were “questioned”. Access only with guided tour.  (The English language tour wasn’t offered at a convenient time for us. ) 

http://www.regensburg.com/

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Former Synagogue

“at this point in the tower of the Gothic woller house was located from 1841 to 1907, the Regensburg synagogue in 1938 was the medieval mansion demolished”  Google Translate

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Very patiently waiting…

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This symbol which reminds me of the Hebrew letter Shin  (but has one too many bits on top) was around the corner from the current Jewish Cultural Center  on Am Brixener Hof.

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Over the following centuries the community slowly grew again, and in 1912 more than 500 Jews of Regensburg were able to open their most impressive Synagogue (Am Brixener Hof 2), a building badly damaged by the Nazis 26 years later during Kristallnacht. Throughout the 1930’s the majority of Regensburg’s Jews emigrated, with the remaining members of the community suffering deportation in 1942 – from which few were to return. The Regensburg Jewish community was re-established in 1945 by Holocaust survivors, who restored the non-destroyed parts of the synagogue. During the subsequent decades, the synagogue has been significantly renovated and enlarged. The Jewish cemetery, dating from 1822, is on Schillerstrasse, on the west side of “Stadtpark”.

http://www.regensburg.com/

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Deggendorf

Guten Abend,

   Berching was charming!  We arrived 4:45 on Thursday afternoon after a long day of locks and such.  When the boat had been secured to the town dock, we went off for a stroll and dinner.  It was a lovely evening during which I met one of the library staff and had a lovely chat.  It was a very good day.

Ru

“Berching, the small Bavarian town greets the visitor with a skyline straight out of the Middle Ages; the town ramparts (constructed around 1450,) with 13 towers and four gates, are intact, and you can walk along parts of the walls.”  The Danube JPM Guides

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We tied up at the public dock.

“150 years after the project by King Ludwig, the new Main-Donau-Channel was finished and officially opened here in Berching.”  Welcome to Berching tourist brochure

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Fairy-tale image except for the modern banners covering the walls.

“In old books you can still find the description of the romantic German town with an imposing fortification, high towers, heavy gates and cobbled places.  Those towns became quite rare, often overbuilt to be modern.  But Berching is quite different: colourful houses which are standing close to each other, small chirches and a completely well preserved fortification from the Middle Ages.

    There is hardly another town in Bavaria with such a close and unchanged medieval townscape than in Berching: 13 towers, 4 gates and the defensive will from the 15th century characterize the picture of the 1100-year-old town. “ Welcome to Berching brochure

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One of the town gates.

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The Berching maypole had images illustrating different professions; cobbler, woodworker, etc.

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Very charming place to visit.

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Examples of wood work was displayed in a shop window.

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The tourist office

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Gluck banners adorn many of the town walls.

“Christopher Willard Gluck, the famous reformer of the opera and creator of “Orpheus and Eurydike,”  who disregarded the motionless baroque opera, was born here in 1714.  An exhibition in the local museum shows details about Gluck’s life and works.”

Berching brochure

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We ate an Italian dinner al fresco  and then went for a walk through the town.

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Berching town library.  I had a lovely chat with Librarian Ingrid Olbrid. (I hope I wrote that correctly.)   The small side chapel off the children’s room made me think the building had once been a church, but Ingrid told me the library had once been a hospital.  It might have been a chapel in the hospital.

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Towers and wrought iron display

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June 16, 2014

Deggendorf

Guten Abend

    We scraped bottom once or twice today.  The water level on the Danube is very low.  There’s one more stretch up ahead that’s also shallow but hopefully it will rain here or the rising levels of water upstream from us will get here.  As of tonight we’re planning to rent a car tomorrow to drive back and visit Walhalla, “ a white marble pseudo Grecian temple dedicated to the memory of famous Germans. Then on the 18th we’ll have to check the water levels again.  Who’d a thought!

    This email is about the Main-Danube Canal.  I thought the 1930 Foreign Affairs article might add some interesting insights about the time.  We encountered the biggest locks along the way;  looked down on roadways below us;  and crossed the “great divide.”

Ru

Locks Up and Down and Canal Over

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Main-Danube-Canal · 2012

The Main-Danube-Canal, built from 1960 to 1992, is a 171 km long Federal Waterway Class Vb connecting the Main near Bamberg with the Donau at Kelheim. At the north ramp of the canal an altitude of 175 m is overcome by 11 locks and at the south ramp an altitude of 68 m is handled by 5 locks. The summit altitude between the locks Hilpoltstein and Bachhausen is 406 m above sea level, thus the highest canal reach in the European Waterway Network. Via the river Rhine, the canal enables a shipping connection between Rotterdam at the North Sea and the harbour of Constanta at the Black Sea.

The construction of the canal began in 1960 at the side of the river Main. The stretch between Bamberg and today’s port Bayernhafen Nuernberg was finished in 1972. Due to a catastrophic dam failure in 1979 at the following stretch between Nuernberg and Roth, resulting from a water flow round a pipeline in the dam, the further required dam stretches of the canal were placed as deep as possible and an excavated alignment was preferred.

In the 1970s and 1980s the construction of the south ramp of the canal between the locks Bachhausen and Kelheim was controversially disputed with respect to ecological, economical and safety-related aspects. Ecological objections refer especially to the alignment of the canal in the river stretch of the Altmuehl south of the lock Dietfurt down to the Danube. Up to the completion of the Main-Danube-Canal in 1992 the highest expenses for ecological compensatory measures have been spent in this stretch of the canal.

The locks of the Main-Danube-Canal have an effective length of 190 m, an effective width of 12.0 m and a vertical lift of 5.30 to 24.70 m. Most of the locks are shaft locks with economising basins. With a vertical lift of 24.70 m the identical locks Leerstetten, Eckersmuehlen and Hilpoltstein are the locks with the highest lift in Germany. The construction of the locks started in 1966 at the north ramp of the canal with the lock Bamberg and was finished with the lock Berching at the south ramp in 1991.

The main transported goods at the Main-Danube-Canal are food and feed followed by agricultural and forest products, ores and scrap, fertilizers, iron, steel and nonferrous metals as well as stones and soil. The total volume of goods transported on the Main-Danube-Canal in 2011 was 5.3 million tons after 6.2 million tons in 2010 (Traffic Report 2011, WSD Sued). In addition to the transportation of goods the passenger transport, both cruise vessels and day-trip vessels, play an important role on the Main-Danube-Canal with 180,000 passenger’s seats in 2011.

The video records of the locks Dietfurt, Kriegenbrunn and Hilpoltstein have been made by the Institute of Hydraulic and Coastal Engineering (IWA) of the Bremen University of Applied Science kindly supported by the Water and Shipping Authority Nuernberg. http://www.aquadot.de/videos/album-01-4/schleusen-e.html

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In Bischberg  we bought our new “bridge height pole” to make sure we can fit underneath.

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Our lock escort…..

We followed ‘Constellation 1 of Wurzburg’ through all of the locks between Bischberg and Nuremberg.  The captain was really courteous and warned us of low bridges and apologized for a short stop he had to make for a delivery.  When leaving the locks he waited until he was far enough ahead of us to turn up his engines so not to churn up the water behind. 

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June 10th Bischberg to Nuremberg

The canal was built over roads and you look down on rooftops.

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A solar energy farm

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June 12th between Nuremberg and Berching 24.7 Meters and first floating bollard. 

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The bollard slides so once you’re hooked on, that’s it.  So much easier.  I tried my hand at these and now Mary and I take turns. 

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We were still going up river at this lock. 

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The old fashioned bollards that meant changing at least a dozen times while you rose.  The sliding bollard eliminates the need for these, but were only on one side of the lock.  Sometimes the sliding bollard was on the east side and some on the west so you had to be prepared for either.  We have 2 really big, heavy fenders bow and stern.  They need to be on the side we’re tied up to.  That means changing them depending whether the sliding bollard is on the east or west wall. 

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With sliding bollards there’s time for boat work.

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Arriving at the top

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Looking back down the river at a ship waiting for the lock to recycle.

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Keeping track of the locks and their heights.  24.7 were the biggest and thankfully had floating bollards. 

The final lock we went to down as we’d “crossed the divide.”

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The “divide” wall.  

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Our first “going down” lock.

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http://www.foreignaffairs.com/

The Rhine-Danube Canal

By Anonymous

From our April 1930 Issue

A CONSTANTLY navigable waterway through the heart of Europe, from the North Sea to the Black Sea, is now being constructed. Twice before it has been attempted. More than a thousand years ago Charlemagne tried to join together two tributaries of the Danube and Main Rivers, but geological conditions and heavy rains defeated his engineers. Nearly a century ago Ludwig I of Bavaria built a canal connecting the Main below Bamberg with the Danube at Kelheim. But this 107-mile canal, with its 100 locks and its capacity limited to 120-ton ships, went down to defeat before its latest competitor, the railroad; for while the upper reaches of the Danube and the Main are not always

navigable, steam power is always on tap. And so the traveler through Nürnberg today sees from the train a deserted waterway.

Determined to overcome the obstacles that were fatal to their predecessors, twentieth century engineers plan to make use of the 388 miles of navigable river from Rotterdam to Aschaffenburg and of the 1,362 miles of the navigable Danube from Sulina to Passau, and to construct from Aschaffenburg on the Main to Passau on the Danube — a distance of 380 miles — a waterway navigable for 1,500-ton ships (i.e., the largest ships usually engaged in inland traffic). They will also give Augsburg and Munich shipping connections with the canal.

By a treaty signed in 1921 the German Government and Bavaria agreed jointly to construct a Rhine-Main-Danube waterway. The Rhine-Main-Danube Company, of Munich, was formed for the purpose, and the stock was subscribed to by the Reich and Bavaria, as well as by other German states, by cities along the Rhine and Main, and by the public; all loans to the company are jointly guaranteed by the Reich and the Bavarian Government. The American public is interested in the company to the extent of about $6,000,000. As the Main had already been canalized as far up as Aschaffenburg, the company first set out to canalize the river above Aschaffenburg and to regulate the Danube, so that these two stretches of river will be constantly navigable. When this work is completed, it will be necessary to cut a canal connecting the two rivers, and it is planned to merge into the new waterway parts of the Ludwig Canal, which is being considerably widened and deepened to meet the demands of twentieth century river traffic.

A channel with a minimum depth of six feet has already been completed for a distance of 100 miles above Passau, and a dam and double locks have been constructed at Kachlet. Canalization of the Main above Aschaffenburg is proceeding rapidly; a dam at Obernau, about six miles above Aschaffenburg, is already in operation, and three others, at Kleinwallstadt, Klingenberg and Kleinheubach, are now under construction.

In order to pass over the range of mountains separating the Main valley from the Danube, the waterway will have to accomplish a rise of nearly 1,000 feet from Aschaffenburg to the summit level, near Hilpoltstein, and then descend about 400 feet to Passau. This will be done by constructing 52 dams, and the locks will be so placed that ships will be able to proceed in the canal at an average speed of six miles per hour. In order to be assured of sufficient water for working the locks of this canal, a reservoir will be constructed at Hilpoltstein, to be fed by a canal about 45 miles long, which, crossing the Danube by aqueduct, will tap the River Lech below Augsburg.

From the financial point of view probably the most valuable asset of the canal is the hydroelectric power stations to be erected at 38 of the 52 dams. It is estimated that the profits derived from the sale of power will within twenty-five years pay off the construction costs of each plant, and thereafter will contribute annually to the amortization of the capital invested in the waterway itself. When all the power plants are in operation, they are expected to yield 1,475,000,000 kilowatt hours annually. The Kachlet plant, above Passau, consists of eight 8,000-horsepower turbines with an annual capacity of 275,000,000 kilowatt hours; this electrical energy is carried by cables to Nürnberg and Furth. Each of the four power plants on the Main, mentioned above, has two turbines yielding between 18,000,000 and 22,000,000 kilowatt hours annually. With such a great source of electrical energy, Middle Germany, though far from good coal supplies, will soon enjoy plenty of power for her metallurgical and electro-chemical industries, and also for other industries and perhaps even for her railroads. Abundant electricity for industry will doubtless create new values for Austria also.

The total cost of constructing the waterway has been estimated at $185,000,000, and the annual operation and maintenance cost are put at $800,000. But as sections of the waterway are completed, they may (at the request either of the Reich or of the company) be taken over by the Reich, in which event the company will be relieved of operation and maintenance costs. The cost of constructing the power plants (which will pay operation and maintenance costs out of profits from the sale of power) is estimated at $70,000,000. They are to be operated by the company until the end of the year 2050, when they revert to the Reich without compensation. The present program of work calls for an expenditure of $32,500,000, nearly half of which is to be contributed by the Reich in ten annual instalments.

This trans-Europe waterway, with its western depot at London and its eastern depot at Sulina, at the mouth of the Danube, where freight can be transshipped for Russian, Turkish and Levantine ports, will be open to free competition to all countries. The Versailles Treaty declared the Danube international below Ulm (Art. 331), as also — were it ever constructed — the deep-draught Rhine-Danube navigable waterway (Arts. 331, 353); it also provided for "the free navigation of vessels and crews of all nations on the Rhine" (Art. 356). The Danube is administered by two international commissions.

Traffic on the Danube has never equalled that on the Rhine, which passes through districts much more highly developed industrially. But since the war the Danube has become much more important as an international highway. Seven independent states now have access to its waters, five of them possessing territory on both banks. For Austria, Czechoslovakia and Hungary it affords the only practicable and independent right of access to the sea. It has been estimated that the canal connecting the Rhine and the Danube would attract at least 10,000,000 tons of shipping annually. To handle this volume of traffic harbors must be extended and improved, warehouses and docks must be built, and railroad and trucking services must be improved. Czechoslovakia already possesses, at Bratislava (Pressburg), big modern docks, and Aschaffenburg and Budapest have considerable harbors. Passau and Regensburg are looking forward to enlarging their docks, and ports in Jugoslavia, Bulgaria and Rumania are planning improved accommodations.

The districts through which the canal will pass are mainly agricultural; but iron-ore deposits have been located in the highlands between Nürnberg, Bamberg and Baireuth, and the huge hydroelectric plants should, by encouraging the development of industry here, provide much traffic for the new waterway. Experts calculate that 48 percent of the total traffic on the new waterway will move westwards and 52 percent, eastwards. Germany will send to the Danubian states Westphalian coal, agricultural machines and artificial fertilizers (for both of which there is a great demand in the agricultural states of the lower Danube basin), as well as other finished products of her industries; in return she will receive agricultural products, timber and oil. Hungary, Jugoslavia and Bulgaria will benefit by the cheaper rates of water transportation for sending their surplus grain up the river to Czechoslovakia and southern Germany. Before the war, the regions now contained in Czechoslovakia produced about 75 percent of the industrial output of Austria-Hungary; this must now be exported, and, as Germany offers no market, it should logically be sold in Hungary and the other Danubian states, rather than as now in countries far distant, often overseas.

But important as the waterway undoubtedly will be to the Danubian states, they will not benefit from it alone. France is interested in it because, in Alsace, she is again on the Rhine. Great Britain is interested, because of the possibilities it opens for the Levant trade and also for direct communication with the petroleum depots of Batum and Baku. Germany is interested, because she desires to revive her trade routes to the East, which is rich in raw materials. Ultimately, the waterway is of world importance, as affording a direct connection between the terminals of transatlantic shipping and the ports of the Levant.

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Marina Saal

Guten Abend,

    If this is Saturday it must be……?  We really are moving quite quickly with quick visits to many places.  Today we visited Regensburg and while there I bought a small book about the cities and towns along the Danube.  Each has just a short entry, but then we don’t stop anyplace all that long so it will be fine.  It’s small and easy to carry which is a plus for sure.

    The broiling hot weather passed and today was almost chilly.  I actually needed a sweater.

Luckily the wifi here at Saal Marina is excellent because our dongles have mysteriously stopped working.  We’re not out of time or days for using it.  So email may be iffy from here on out. 

    This email tells about my visit to the site where the Great Synagogue had stood.  And also the sad history of Leo Katzenberger whose memorial is just near-by.

Ru

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Site of a former Nuremberg synagogue burnt during Kristallnacht

     “On the 10 August 1938 on the orders of Streicher, the Great Synagogue and the adjacent Jewish community building were torn down, under the pretext “that they were spoiling the look of the city.” The synagogue’s Jewish Stone, a remnant of a medieval synagogue that served as the base for the Holy Ark, was saved by a non-Jewish architect.  On Kristallnacht, which took place throughout the Reich, at 2.00am, SA men armed with sticks gathered in the main city square and set fire to the Adas Israel synagogue, and the Ahiezer prayer hall.”

http://www.holocaustresearchproject.org/nazioccupation/nuremberg.html

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Just next to the Synagogue memorial

http://www.ushmm.org/wlc/en/article.php?ModuleId=10007908

Katzenberger Case, March 13, 1942

     “Leo Katzenberger was a prominent Jewish businessman in Nuremberg who owned a wholesale shoe business and a number of stores throughout southern Germany and who was a leading figure in the Nuremberg Jewish community. Beginning in 1932, he rented an apartment and a small storefront in his building at 19 Spittlertorgraben to Irene Seiler, the daughter of a non-Jewish friend. Although his business was “Aryanized” in 1938, he was still considered well-off and continued to own his building and rent space to Seiler.

In the spring of 1941, Katzenberger, who was 76, and Seiler, who was 30, were accused of having a sexual affair and arrested on charges of race defilement (Rassenschande). Under interrogation they steadfastly denied that there was any sexual element to their relationship and asserted that it was merely a longstanding friendship in which Katzenberger helped Seiler as a father would help a daughter. The judge who initially investigated the case was unable to find sufficient evidence that sexual intercourse between Katzenberger and Seiler had occurred and delayed bringing the case to trial until further investigation. Then, in March 1942, following a sworn statement by Irene Seiler in which she also denied the charges, the case was brought before the Nuremberg Special Court and presided over by the notorious Nazi judge Dr. Oswald Rothaug.

There was great public interest in the proceedings and the court was crowded both days. In what was a deliberately orchestrated show trial, Rothaug referred to Katzenberger several times as a “syphilitic Jew” and an “agent of world Jewry.” There was no question of the outcome. The court convicted Katzenberger of race defilement and imposed the death penalty by applying not just the Law for the Protection of German Blood and German Honor, but also the Ordinance against Public Enemies (also called the Folk Pest Law) of 1939. The latter law — which permitted the death penalty if the accused exploited wartime conditions to further his or her crime — was used against Katzenberger on the grounds that he secretly visited Seiler “after dark.”

The written findings of the case reveal a series of inconsistencies and perversions allowed under the Nazi system of justice. The accused were arrested on the basis of rumors and innuendo; their sworn statements were twisted and used against them to further the aims of the prosecution; and the verdict was written to meet a predetermined outcome of guilt. It was a public demonstration designed to inflame antisemitic feeling and justify the extraordinary measures put in place to persecute Jews and other so-called enemies of the regime.

Irene Seiler was found guilty of perjury and sentenced to two years of hard labor. Leo Katzenberger was beheaded on June 2, 1942, at Stadelheim Prison in Munich.”

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Around the corner kids enjoying this modernistic water fountain on a very hot day

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An unintended smiley face on the tower.

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Beautiful Fountain

“Built ca. 1358-1396 by construction supervisor and stonemason Heinrich Beheim.  The 19 m tall stone pyramid rises from the octagonal basin like a Gothic church spire, narrowing in three stages to the finial.  Four rows of 40 stone figures represent the world-view of the Holy Roman Empire.  The railing with the famous brass ring that can be turned, and has been replaced several times, was made in 1587.” Nuremberg and Furth Tourist Booklet

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Durer home and museum on the far left and the half stone and half concrete house on the right.

I saw an exhibit of Durer drawings at the Courtauld  in London.  As I was participating in that life drawing group every Sunday, seeing the Durer drawings was quite amazing.

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Albrecht Durer Statue

The laying of the foundation stone for the monument to mark the 300th anniversary of his death in 1828 was a national event, as was the official inauguration in 1840. The Albrecht-Dürer monument was the first monument in Germany to be erected in honour of an artist, designed by Christian Rauch and cast by Jacob Burgschmiet.  http://tourismus.nuernberg.de/en/sightseeing/places-of-interest/monuments-and-fountains/d/nuernberger-denkmaeler-und-brunnen-albrecht-duerer-denkmal.html

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Der Hase—Hommage à Dürer (The Hare—a Homage to Dürer), Nuremberg, Germany

     “This dazed or possibly dead rabbit seems unaware of the swarm of mice that shares its busted-up crate. Positioned outside of Albert Dürer’s house in Nuremberg, the nightmarish sculpture by Jürgen Goertz is a satiric take on a much more pleasingly proportioned bunny—the one immortalized in Dürer’s watercolor Der Feldhase.”

http://www.travelandleisure.com/articles/worlds-ugliest-public-art/13

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Der Feldhase  by Durer

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Not VanGogh but an electrical box.

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Not sure what these are but I’ll have to try one when I next see them.

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Saal Marina near Kelheim on the Danube

Guten Morgen,

   Yesterday we left the Main Donau Kanal and started down the Donau itself (Danube.) We are now at Marina Saal where we will spend a few days.  We will take the train or rent a car to visit Regensberg just down the Donau but which has no place for DoraMac.  The weather gods as well as the lock keepers were kind to us with blue skies and short waiting times.  You can’t ask for more when you travel these rivers and canals.  We spent last night in Berching where I met one of the library’s staff.  More about that in future emails.

Ru

Nuremberg = Nazi trials to many of us.  That’s all I knew before we visited.  I’d read the play Judgment at Nuremberg and had seen the movie.  And as I said previously, much of my knowledge of Europe has come from TV or movies.  I studied American and Russian history in college, but never the history of Western Europe.   I studied places that related to me personally. 

I still don’t know particularly much about Nuremberg or Germany really, but what I remember most will be the friendly folks like Andreas  Klein in Oberwinter,  Charly and Erika in Bischberg,  Ingrid Olbrid from the Berching Library and Linda, Wolfgang, Gitty and Franc from here in Saal/Kelheim.   To quote Maya Angalou :  “….people will never forget how you made them feel.”  I have felt very welcome as an American.  Do they know I’m Jewish?  No, but I can’t imagine it would matter to the good people we meet.  There were no guards around the synagogues in Cologne or Nuremberg or the Jewish Museums in Frankfurt.  There were security checks once inside which we never had in churches.  But that’s all over Europe as well as in Singapore.  Only Israel had no security check at the Great Synagogue in Tel Aviv. 

We had a lovely day in Nuremberg itself.  Late in the afternoon Randal and I had to visit the FedEx facility to collect his new ATM cards and my new Credit Card. (The taxi was a Mercedes, maybe the first I’ve ever been in.  Nice helpful driver.)   I’d gotten a new card last time at home but the issuing bank decided to change everyone’s cards so I needed a new one.  It’s very handy that FedEx has collection sites; sort of like the old American Express offices, but then maybe American Express still does that sort of thing. 

“Nuremberg boasts a unique mixture of tradition and modern times. Both people born here and people who moved here appreciate its extraordinary quality of life. At the same time, Nuremberg is a modern city with 500,000 inhabitants, and the centre of a prospering European metropolitan region with 2.5 million inhabitants. Its almost thousand years of history are still obvious in its cityscape.”

http://www.nuernberg.de/internet/portal_e/buerger/

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Craftsmen’s Courtyard at Konigstor Tower

“Behind the massive city walls craftsmen’s traditions are still being cultivated in the small workshops.  Pewterers, glass cuters, leather workers, gold and silversmiths, stained glass painters, gingerbread-makers, and a doll-maker offer their wares for sale and let visitors look over their shoulders while they work….” Nuremberg Furth Tourist Booklet  (We actually didn’t see any workshops, just shops and restaurants.  But we didn’t ask either. 

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Mary selecting some “made in Nuremberg” souvenirs.

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Was ist das? 

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http://www.nmn.de/de/presse/unschaerfe.htm  explains it all in German but I wasn’t surprised to find it was next to the Design Museum.  The Design Museum in London had interesting exhibits in its outdoor plaza.

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Great reflective windows!

The New Museum with its curved glass facade rises over the medieval city walls in the heart of Nuremberg. The handsome museum has received many awards for its striking modern architecture and is a venue for contemporary art and design.  http://tourismus.nuernberg.de/

The prominent building by the architect Volker Staab with its nearly 100 metre wide, gently curved glass façade is a completely new element in the old town of Nuremberg. Two storeys provide an exhibition space of nearly 2300 m² for the presentation of art and design. The art collection, opened in 2000, includes works from all sectors of art from around 1960.

http://www.bavaria.by/

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Old town Nuremberg

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Central Monument to Escape and Expulsion 1945

  “…..Some of the people who left those eastern countries were recent arrivals, who had been settled in German-conquered territories by the Nazis as part of their long-term plan for German domination of eastern Europe. But most of those being expelled came of stock whose ancestors had been settled in the eastern lands for generations, and who knew no other place as home.

   The Volksdeutsche, as the Nazis had called them were, however, for the most part, victims of a calamity of which they were themselves part-authors. Not all were Nazis, but a majority had become supporters of Hitler.”

http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/worldwars/wwtwo/refugees_01.shtml  explains

A more sympathetic explanation of this expulsion  can also be found in the Huffington Post article by R.M. Douglas the author of "Orderly and Humane: The Expulsion of the Germans after the Second World War" Yale University Press   http://www.huffingtonpost.com/

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I saw these ladies in their lovely hats and snuck a photo.  Then I walked up to them and told them I loved their hats and asked if I could take a photo.  One smiled and seemed she agreed, but the other shook her head and said no so that was that.

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Historic Old town

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I have no words to do this fountain the justice it deserves. 

“In 1589, the iron caster, Benedikt Wurzelbauer, completed the Fountain of the Virtues (Tugendbrunnen), commissioned by the City Council of the Free City of the Empire who had intended to demonstrate their stature in the world. Six allegories of the three theological and the three cardinal virtues with their attributes are placed on a round platform: Faith with a cross and a chalice, Love with two children, Hope with an anchor, Courage with a lion, Moderation with a jug, and Patience with a lamb. Above the figures, cherubs carry the two coats of arms of the City of Nuremberg. The seventh virtue, Justice, stands on the top of the pillar with blindfolded eyes, a sword and a crane as a symbol of alertness. The fountain marks the spatial boundary of Lorenzer Platz towards Königsstraße.”

http://www.nuernberg.de/internet/portal_e/reiseziel/ctz_4604.html

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Germany, the home of the Nutcracker legend.

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Ruth and Randal




Boston Red Sox hat travels the world.