Author Archive

Merhaba,

  We’re still here, but we do have a tentative plan.  It’s attached as an Excel file.  I’ve started to research Sicily and Sardinia as we’re pretty positive about those places.  Our friends Ed and Sue are in Tunisia now and really liking it.  We’ll stop there for sure too. 

  Randal has most of the boat ready to go.  And today I had my first “drive the dinghy” lesson.  I can do it if I have too; and certainly I can row it if I had to. 

  The Mediterranean weather isn’t being so cooperative this week, but should be fine when we actually do decide to head out.  Lots of folks already ahead of us.  They just stay put while the wind blows. 

  I haven’t been taking any new photos.  I have been painting a bit.  I’m trying to paint a postcard size picture of Marmaris harbor and so far, not so good.  But I’ll keep trying.

   Several local folks, when they realize I am an American, tell me how sorry they are about the devastation in Oklahoma.  We have found the Turkish people to be very kind and caring people.  Other countries will have a hard act to follow. 

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Ru

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Merhaba,

   Yesterday morning I walked to the Arts and Culture Center.    An exhibit of model ships was in the process of being installed.  Randal was excited about seeing it (and needed a break from his boat chores) so this morning Randal, our friend Collin and I went off to see it. Before we left our boat Randal asked if I had my camera and I said yes.   I’d taken it out and put it down on the chart table to put it in my pack.    But somehow I managed to leave the camera on the chart table.  Luckily Collin had his camera and loaned it to me to take some photos.  I didn’t do justice to either his camera, or the exhibit.  But at least there are some photos to share with you.    And because “no good deed goes unpunished,”  Collin had to hunt up his camera cable because his camera card wouldn’t fit in my computer.  He first had to find the cable and then he kindly transferred the photos from his camera card to a stick for me.  Thanks Collin!

  Because the exhibition was model ships and we have a marina full of cruisers, I announced the exhibit on the morning NET.  While we were there several other cruisers stopped in to see the exhibit as well. 

Ru

Model Ship Exhibit at the Culture and Art Center

http://www.gemimodelcileridernegi.org/

is the website of the organization whose members built the models on display in Marmaris. 

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Model Ship Association exhibit poster

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http://www.gemimodelcileridernegi.org/

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Collin

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Collin patiently posing for me.

I think it helps to have someone in the photo so you get an idea of the size of the model

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Randal and Collin conferring

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Future sailors or boat builders?

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Future sailors or boat builders?

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A model of Pearl Harbor

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Model Boat Builders with Randal and Collin

I’m not sure if the women are boat builders or Center Staff, but the men insisted they be included so they are important to the exhibit.  The group had come from Istanbul; I believe we were told the exhibit is traveling around Turkey. 

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They also insisted on a second photo with me included this time.

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Model of a ship being built.

The calendar by the door has a portrait of the Titanic Captain!  The figure in the blue shirt by the boat plans is carrying a pail.  We watched for at least a minute as the pail swung back and forth.  Nothing else moved.  That fascinated Randal as we weren’t sure why it was happening.  I did accidentally kick one of the table legs and that made the pail swing faster but nothing else moved…so it’s a mystery.

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Plans for the “boat under construction.”

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Blue Nose

http://www.tourcanada.com/bluenose.htm  tells the story of this racing fishing vessel and the International Fishermen’s Race.  Below is the introductory paragraph.

    “In the early part of the 20th century, the fishing fleets in the Maritime provinces and the New England states operated under sail. The Banks were the favored fishing grounds of both Canadian and American fishermen. Their vessels were strongly constructed to weather the rigorous challenges of the North Atlantic fishing grounds but were also built for speed and holding capacity. During this era, a popular topic of discussion in the few free time hours that these fishermen had was the America’s Cup races. These had started in 1851 and were a test of seamanship between the best British and United States racing schooners. In 1919, after years of domination by the Americans, a race was cancelled because of 25 knot winds and this created much distain among the rugged Banks fishermen. They suggested that the racing schooners had become too fragile and a better test of seamanship would be a competition involving the sailing ships and men who fished the Grand Banks.”

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Such minute detail on each of the models.

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Those huge oars remind me of my Outward Bound days at Hurricane Island.

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In the hallway of the center was a small replica that kids could climb on.  This is such a cool place!

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Merhaba,

  I want to share these scrip options as possible story lines for the women with the red hair.

Ru

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From Ken

Oh yes, there is a movie here: after the third scene, the train begins to pull away and the camera then rises above the train, watching it roll off into the countryside, then returning to the couple still gazing into each other’s eyes. They have never met, can’t even speak each other’s language, yet they both know that their futures are to be intertwined. 

From Roy

Not original, but maybe in frame 3   "we’ll always have Paris" .  In background someone is already rounding up the "usual suspects".
  So sorry (not really) but I couldn’t help myself  !     Roy   … Note ;  nowhere did I  even whisper "play it again Sam"

From Gwen

I love this!  I have a script: Her name is  Alara.  It means, literally,"red ornament".  But she was a natural brunette, but never felt natural or possessed any sense of wellbeing; almost as if she was out of sync with herself. Alara  went to the hairdresser and asked to be a red head.  The hairdresser thought Alara meant like auburn, or strawberry blonde.  But the hairdresser didn’t question Alara and the hair dresser stripped all the colour from Alara’s hair.. then, several hours later, after the hairdresser had , created strawberry blonde, Alara took one look in the mirror and was horrified.  She was not RED.  After some mixing and chemistry by the hairdresser, Alara was finally RED.  She loved it. But she knew her husband was going to have a temper tantrum because his girlfriend also had hair this RED!  Alara walked outside the hairdresser, toward the small Migros in Netsel marina.  She didn’t know what to do, so she just stood by a boat nearby and pondered some kind of solution.  She’d already spent about 8 hours in the hair salon and close 350 Turkish Lira on her husband’s credit card… then it started to rain.  As it rained, Alara noticed some of the wet drops from her hair fell on her blouse.  The drops were light red!  After about 30 minutes, her blue blouse was slightly turning a dark purple!  It was then that her husband, who worked on boats, wandered by and saw her.  he stopped… dead in his tracks. " OMG"" he exclaimed (he was a chat room expert  and avidly into twittering).  "love it" he cried.  Then added in a tender and caring voice, "and I love you, my dear RED Alara!"     They did not, however, live happily ever after because the RED colour was not permanent.  Just a RED vegetable dye … leaving  Alara’s hair, after a week or so, just a drab orange…

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Merhaba

   We’re still here.  Randal is off on his umpteenth trip to chandlery street.  Most big stuff is done, but he still has a list.  We’re also still finalizing our tentative route to England.  I’m almost certain we’ll stop in Sicily, Sardinia, Tunisia, and visit Gibraltar.  In Gibraltar we’re so close to Casablanca that I think we should visit.   Casablanca is Randal’s favorite movie.  I think we must know half the dialogue by heart, we’ve watched it so many times.   But all will be determined by weather and timing so we’ll see.  I’m actually, finally ready to go; summer season in Marmaris with the crowds and NOISE from Bar Street every night make the leave-taking easier.  Saying good-bye to friends, not looking forward to that.  But permanence isn’t part of the cruising world.  Some stops may be longer than others, but eventually most everyone moves on.  Maybe that’s what the story in these photos is about….

Ru

Seen from a window, a scene screaming for a script.

Our pilot house door has a window; a very dirty window.  Typing this prompted me to go clean it.  However, prior to it being cleaned, the streaks made for a very “artsy” image of a woman standing on the dock.  I’d taken the photos to capture her very orange hair; not to make fun.  I applaud women who have fun with their hair.  The image that showed up was not what I expected.  It’s not a photo of a woman with red hair; it’s a story about a woman with red hair. 

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Merhaba,

   The final story from our Black Sea visit.  I’m ready to go back.  So much more to see, and do and eat!

Ru

    Our final day was a long day.  We started the morning in Safranbolu with a 9 am cave hike (I started with a 6 am walk around modern Safranbolu) and ended with a final dinner in Ankara where we thanked our intrepid mini-bus driver Ayden and our patient, kind-hearted guide Taṣ.  There was even cake with sparkly candles. 

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Gwen thanking Ayden and Taṣ; Patience and Fortitude… Gary looking on.

Actually Patience and Fortitude are the marble male African lions outside the New York Public Library.

“What these radiate is calm and strength, majesty, tranquility, all really good things to be sending as signals at a library.” http://cityroom.blogs.nytimes.com/2011/04/21/in-honor-of-a-century-of-patience-and-fortitude/   Pretty good description of what it takes to lead a group of independent cruisers anywhere.

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Ayden was more than the bus driver.  He made everything more fun with his interest and attentiveness.

He never said no and always had a smile.  

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I hadn’t noticed Taṣ’ gray hair the first day of the trip; but this photo taken in Yὄrὒk Kὄyὒ shows a sprinkle of them.   He internalized his stress and kept a smile on his face.  Here he is tasting a raw almond, or something, because none of us would and someone had to. 

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Mark, Dorothy, Patricia and Dave listening to Gwen’s speech.

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Strawberries, kiwis, and cake: Oh My!  Celebrating the end of a very fun journey.

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A Turkish students from Izmir, (I think he said Izmir and not Istanbul) wanted his photo taken with us. 

You can see that cruisers are definitely not “teetotalers. 

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Our blue caps that Ayden was going to deliver to a collection point.

During the trip I was the “keeper of the caps” and people were always handing them to me so I had them in every pocket of my backpack during each day. Each night I would fish them all out to put in a plastic bag for safekeeping.

One final story.

I don’t have a photo of Tazeena’s ceramic pots.  (Had I known how the story was going to play out I would surely have taken one.)    Tazeena really wanted some ceramic pots.  So after passing up one chance to buy some, finally did at a gift shop next to our lunch stop outside Yὄrὒk Kὄyὒ.  While we all had been eating, Tazeena, with Taṣ’ help, had negotiated for two!  But how to get them home on the plane? These were not “fit in your hand pots, but you need two hands to hold them pots.  One went into David’s suitcase packed with dirty laundry.  The other went into Tazeena’s backpack.  David’s luggage went through the checked-baggage scanner, no problem.  But Tazeena’s backpack set off the alarm.  Problem is the checkers believed the alarm was set off by the pack following Tazeena’s which was Patricia’s.  So while Tazeena was walking merrily on her way, Patricia was having to totally unpack her backpack protesting the entire time that there was no pot in her pack.  And, indeed, there was no pot in her pack and the guards made no effort to find the real pack with the pot.

The flight was smooth and shorter than our 2 hour drive back from Bodrum Airport to Marmaris.  But it was sunny and nice and while everyone was happy to be home, I think we were all sorry to have left the Black Sea. 

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Merhaba,

  Yesterday our new dinghy and recertified life raft were delivered.  So we’re pretty close to being ready to set off within the next few weeks.  I’m also just about finished with the emails of our Black Sea trip.  This final one about Safranbolu and one about our last evening in Ankara; and finis!  Then I can begin araṣtirmak (to research) the places we’re tentatively planning to visit on our way to London.  

   Looking back on the 3 Safranbolu emails it’s hard to believe that we did so much before 2 pm! 

Ru

Safranbolu Part 3 :  Walk around the arasta.

We all started out following Taṣ though the narrow streets of shops, but it’s hard to souvenir shop as a group.  And as it was about noon, Randal wanted food more than he wanted stuff, so we went off on our own to a small “not tourist” restaurant to share some lentil soup and grilled chicken.  We were to regroup at 2 pm.

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More blue caps.  If I didn’t already say, we drank enough water during over our 7 days to collect almost 90 caps.

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Randal loves these light weight construction blocks.  We have a North Cyprus photo just like this.

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The date on the sign says 1661!

We were doing our group thing at this point, so as we passed I took photos of the traditional coffee making, but didn’t stop to sample any. 

Lonely Planet review for Arasta Lonca Kahvesi

This is one of the town’s most congenial places for a coffee, but it’s in the thick of the arasta action, so you pay for the atmosphere (çay TL2.50); head to the backstreets for a quieter, cheaper cuppa.

http://www.lonelyplanet.com/

  (I have paid both less and more for Çay (tea) other places.)

Arasta: Row of shops near a mosque, the rent from which supports the mosque.

Lonca: Dictionary definition is “guild.”

Kahvesi: Kahve is coffee and the si makes it a possessive. 

So maybe Coffee of the Arasta Guild

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Traditional coffee making; but the woman is in very western dress with no head scarf.

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I’m not leaving Turkey without one of these long handled “coffee makers.”

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I think these small Ottoman house models were becoming lamps

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Pinocchio is alive and well in Turkey; we see puppets everywhere.

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Randal times 2.

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Soon the vines will be leaf covered and providing shade.

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The Izzet Mehmet Pasha Mosque (I think)

Built in 1796 by Izzet Mehmet Pasha  entirely of cut stone.

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Kazdaḡli Mosque 1778

It was built by Kazdagli Mehmet Aga in 1779. The mosque was constructed from stone and brick. Its brick minaret has one balcony (serefe). The mosque, which was sold to private person in 1930’s, was donated to Safranbolu Municipality by Müezzinoglu Family (Nuri - Meliha Isitan) in 1975. Ownership of the mosque passed from the Municipality to General Directorate of Foundation in 2004 and its restoration was accomplished in the same year.   http://www.waymarking.com/

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I like this photo, and hope these historic building will always be protected.

But from my experiences Turkey is really very much more modern than this photo would imply. 

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Merhaba,

Safranbolu was our final stop before heading back to Ankara for our flight home.  It’s a UNESCO Heritage City with lots to see, so give it a few days.  We spent one day, just enough to get the flavor of it the scent of the local perfumes made from Saffron.

Ru

From Tom Frosnahan, travel writer….

Ottoman culture is alive and well in Safranbolu, a real museum of a town 225 km (140 miles) north of Ankara filled with graceful Ottoman houses and artisans working at traditional Turkish crafts.

Industrialization came to neighboring Karabük, a steel-making town 10 km (6 miles) to the south, but it spared Safranbolu. In the 1970s Turkish artists and photographers began to notice this historic gem of a town.

In the 1980s tourism authorities saw its value, and the government pledged to preserve it. Modern structures were prohibited in its historic neighborhoods, and traditional artisans were encouraged to ply their crafts in restored workshops. Costumed staff in cafes and restaurants serve Ottoman cuisine.

Luckily, it’s not at all Disneyfied. The local people are real people, not performers, and they love their historic town.

http://www.turkeytravelplanner.com/go/CentralAnatolia/Safranbolu/

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Safranbolu Baglar Saray Hotel where we spent the night.

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White walls, wood furniture, lace curtains…all features of Ottoman houses.

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This painting in the lobby reminded me of the carpet restorers we saw on our Cappadocia trip.

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I got up early to walk for about an hour into the newer part of Safranbolu.

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Typical Turkish breakfast spread very welcome after my walk down and up the hill from the hotel.

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I love these and had bought some during our trip which I shared with everyone and a few stray dogs.  They are a less buttery, more confectionary sugary, and dryer than shortbread.  They are very crumbly and light and I’ll have to buy some again just to find read the ingredients.

Our morning in Safranbolu was spent out in the countryside visiting the Bulak Mencilis Mağarası, a cave up in the hills.

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“Deep in the Gὕrleyik hills 10km northwest of Safranbolu, this impressive cave network opened to the public a decade ago, although troglodytes may have lived here many millennia before that.  You can walk through 400 meters of the 6km-long network, enough to reveal a fine array of stalactites and stalagmites with inevitable anthropomorphic nicknames.”  Lonely Planet Turkey Guide

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Starting up the stairs that led up to the cave

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The rest of the way up

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Entering the cave

It’s actually pretty dark, but I used my photo program to add light so you could see what we saw.

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There were lights along the way but this is still a “light-enhanced” photo

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There was a metal walkway part of the way and dirt part of the way

Stalactites

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Beautiful and fanciful, think Arthur Rackham illustrations.

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Complimentary tea from the Cave Guard.

When we had arrived at 9, opening time, the wooden cave door was locked tight.  Taṣ called the posted number and was told there had been car problems.  But by 9:15 we were walking through the cave, so all was well.

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At the base of the hill near the parking area…

There is a small underground river, waterfall and some lakes but we didn’t see them or even if access is still available.

“At Byzantine and Ottoman times a branch of this cave was the source or waterway leading to the city center. “  Safranbolu Museum City Travel Guide from the Turkish Ministry of Culture and Tourism

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Dave had wanted a photo of this small, stone/timber “vacation” home that we had seen on our way to the cave.

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I wanted to walk the path, but the cave was only our first stop of the day, so we had to move along.

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Merhaba,

I loved Yörük Köyü.  Here’s the rest of the story.

Ru

DoraMac

http://yorukvillage.wordpress.com/yoruk-village/the-yoruks-arrival/ fascinating site about the history of  Yörük Köyü that I stumbled across researching the Bektasi dervish sect that were part of Yörük Köyü history.  But the Bekatsi sect is just too much to go into here so I’m not.  This email is about the “laundry,” the Ottoman house, and the coffee/tea shop we visited.

“Along the Kastamonu road, 15 km east of Safranbolu,  Yörük Köyü (Nomad Village) is a beautiful settlement of crumbling old houses once inhabited by the Dervish Bektaṣi sect.  The government forces the nomads to settle here so it could tax them, and the villagers grew rich from their baking prowess.” 

Lonely Planet Turkey Guide

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The cat outside and the dog inside were having a verbal battle.  Both ignored the chicken.

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Çamaşır means underwear or laundry.  Adding hane makes it “laundry building.”   I can’t say it was an old time Laundromat, because there was nothing “automatic” about it. 

In Cemil Ipeҫi Spkaḡi is the 300 year old çamaşırhane (laundry) with arched hearths where the water was heated in caldrons.  Taller women scrubbed at one end of the tilted stone table, shorter ones at the other;  the dirty water drained in the center.  The table’s 12 sides are a clue to the villages Bektaṣi origins (like modern Shi’a Muslims, the Bektaṣi  believed in 12 imams, the last of whom had been hidden by Allah.)  Older women would sit at the edges sizing up  the grandchildren-producing potential  of their younger counterparts, whose bodies would be revealed by their wet clothes.   Lonely Planet Turkey Guide.

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The 16th-century hamam is in ruins, but the old communal washing hall, or çamaşırhane, where village woman meet over laundry to share gossip and sing songs, was restored in 1996. It is a popular meeting place, a club for women. http://www.cornucopia.net/

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Sink and cauldron

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Stick to beat the laundry.  The stick was worn smooth as were all of the stone surfaces.

I’ve told Randal if our washing machine ever stops working, we get a new one or I’m going home.  I had to hand wash our dirty laundry while we were on the hard at Bodrum for 5 days.  Many cruisers have no washing machine and always have to hand launder their clothes, towels, etc. or take them to a çamaşırhane if the marina has no coin op facility.  I’m definitely spoiled.

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Visiting an old Ottoman home.

Sipahioḡlu Konaḡi Gezi  Evi is one of the villages enormous old houses.  The builders warring sons divided the mansion in two and you tour the selamlik and the haremlik separately.  Lonely Planet

The one unmissable site is the Sipahioğlu Konağı Gezi Evi, the local museum. This mansion is so enormous that the tour has to be offered in two parts, by far the livelier of the two being offered by an apple-cheeked countrywoman who speaks not a word of English but doesn’t let that stand in the way of communicating with her guests. As you wander round the house you will be able to inspect the same sort of built-in wooden furnishings that are commonplace in Safranbolu: revolving cupboard doors, built-in mouse traps and purpose-designed wooden niches to accommodate all life’s necessities. Here, however, you will also be treated to a sign-language explanation of how hot water running behind the walls acted as central heating and of how the primitive toilets worked. Perhaps the highlight of the visit is just sitting in the little wooden gazebo on the roof, which would have been used as a smoking retreat-with-a-view by male members of the family. The fez-stand against the wall serves as a reminder of an item of headgear that was once ubiquitous but which Atatürk rendered as illegal as the Bektaşı dervishes.  http://www.todayszaman.com

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The first floor was a “gift shop.”      

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Beautiful wood and painted ceiling with a mirror-like ceiling fixture.

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Reflection in the ceiling fixture.

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Somavar   Room heater, geometric nomad carpet pattern and lovely decorative painted panel and around the walls .

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The same pattern of the stool is the one on the wall design.

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A trunk

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The “library” with the owner’s red fez

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A display case with vintage luggage and some decorative needlework

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A close-up shows that King Edward is in the photo with Atatὕrk.

4 September, 1935. Visit of King Edward VIII to Ataturk in Istanbul.

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Family Tree

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The “other house next door” also had a gift shop we visited.

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They also had a gift shop.

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Our Yὄrὕk Kὄyὕ guide with Taṣ, not the apple-cheeked woman, but a very knowledgeable man.

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“..village’s only coffee house is still the men’s club, untouched, a place for elders to reflect on the old days, on country matters and affairs of state, or to play backgammon. “

http://www.cornucopia.net/

When we walked in most of the men went outside to sit in the garden which was too bad. 

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Bar keep who never cracked a smile and served us all Turkish tea.

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The eldest elder, reportedly over 100 years old.   (I snuck his photo as he really didn’t want to pose.)

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Ayden and Taṣ play backgammon while Dorothy and Mark look on.

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Tinker to Evers to Chance….Anton David Randal

I have no idea why I thought of those 3 looking at these 3.

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Our intrepid leader Gwen and her sidekick, Taṣ

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Merhaba,

   In this email we’re still on our way to Safronbolu where we will spend our final night before heading back to Ankara.  We stopped at Yὂrὕk Kὂyὕ and everyone was charmed by everything there. Yὂrὕk means Nomad, usually thought of as the “real Turkish people” and Kὂyὕ means “of the village.”  Together it means Nomad Village. ….I think.

Ru

Yörük Köyü : Michelin’s recommendations

      Yörük Köyü, a smaller version of Safranbolu, has neither been granted World Heritage status nor embarked upon restoration of its old buildings. The result is that this charming town, with its superb 16th Century Ottoman houses, has a truly authentic and faded appearance which makes it a delight to visit. Some of its buildings are a little run down, but this only adds to its nostalgic charm. Even the locals seem unchanged by the passing centuries. The most beautiful house in the village, Sipahioglu Konagi, is open to the public and is home to a charming small museum which, although modest in style, is nonetheless interesting.  http://travel.michelin.com/web/destination/Turkey-Yoruk_Koyu

A short distance from Yörük Köyü we stopped for lunch.

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Our lunch stop restaurant……and souvenir shops…

Randal had lentil soup; I had grilled chicken.  Tazeena bought 2 ceramic pots that made for lots of laughs and one interesting airport security story. 

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Yὂrὕk Kὂyὕ  villagers greet you upon arrival

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A small bakery/cafe

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This “house of”  advertises Yörük style pancakes, yogurt drink and baklava

 

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Notice the table to the left with layers of rolled dough and the giant bag of flour in the corner.

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I think it must take lots of practice to do this so perfectly.

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The dough was being rolled out for the next batch of baklava, though Gὂzleme dough is rolled out in a similar manner.

* The name Gὂzleme originates from the word "eye" (in Turkish gὂz means eye). When you start to cook it, you will see some little brown round shaped spots on it, which gives Gὂzleme its name:)

http://www.turkishcookbook.com/2007/03/gozleme.php  gives a recipe for Gὂzleme.

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Finished baklava: we only got a photo and not a taste.

http://www.karakoygulluoglu.com/eng/index.asp?page=baklava1.asp is a great website discussing the history of baklava in Turkey.

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Ottoman house model

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The double teapot set up on the heater and a gὂzleme cooker on the right.  At least that’s what I think it is.  The gὂzleme are cooked on the top part of the top sort of like an inverted wok.

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A fixer upper for someone.

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Yὂrὕk Kὂyὕ streets

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I believe the lady with the rolling pin                                      A local gentleman      

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Decorative bits and Yὂrὕk Kὂyὕ Gothic

This next bit is really interesting…..I think especially for our Roanoke friends Jane and Peter.

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Ropes on the door indicate if the family is at home.

If it is hanging straight down, the family is home.  If the rope is pulled across with one knot, they’ll be home soon.  The more knots, the longer the family would be away.  I don’t remember if locks are ever used. 

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Even in Yὂrὕk Kὂyὕ they collect blue caps.

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May 9, 2013

Netsel Marina

Marmaris, Turkey

Merhaba,

   In this email we’re still on our way to Safronbolu where we will spend our final night before heading back to Ankara.  We stopped at Yὂrὕk Kὂyὕ and everyone was charmed by everything there. Yὂrὕk means Nomad, usually thought of as the “real Turkish people” and Kὂyὕ means “of the village.”  Together it means Nomad Village. ….I think.

Ru

Yörük Köyü : Michelin’s recommendations

      Yörük Köyü, a smaller version of Safranbolu, has neither been granted World Heritage status nor embarked upon restoration of its old buildings. The result is that this charming town, with its superb 16th Century Ottoman houses, has a truly authentic and faded appearance which makes it a delight to visit. Some of its buildings are a little run down, but this only adds to its nostalgic charm. Even the locals seem unchanged by the passing centuries. The most beautiful house in the village, Sipahioglu Konagi, is open to the public and is home to a charming small museum which, although modest in style, is nonetheless interesting.  http://travel.michelin.com/

A short distance from Yörük Köyü we stopped for lunch.

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Our lunch stop restaurant……and souvenir shops…

Randal had lentil soup; I had grilled chicken.  Tazeena bought 2 ceramic pots that made for lots of laughs and one interesting airport security story. 

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Yὂrὕk Kὂyὕ  villagers greet you upon arrival

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A small bakery/cafe

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This “house of”  advertises Yörük style pancakes, yogurt drink and baklava

 

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Notice the table to the left with layers of rolled dough and the giant bag of flour in the corner.

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I think it must take lots of practice to do this so perfectly.

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The dough was being rolled out for the next batch of baklava, though Gὂzleme dough is rolled out in a similar manner.

* The name Gὂzleme originates from the word "eye" (in Turkish gὂz means eye). When you start to cook it, you will see some little brown round shaped spots on it, which gives Gὂzleme its name:)

http://www.turkishcookbook.com/  gives a recipe for Gὂzleme.

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Finished baklava: we only got a photo and not a taste.

http://www.karakoygulluoglu.com/ is a great website discussing the history of baklava in Turkey.

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Ottoman house model

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The double teapot set up on the heater and a gὂzleme cooker on the right.  At least that’s what I think it is.  The gὂzleme are cooked on the top part of the top sort of like an inverted wok.

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A fixer upper for someone.

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Yὂrὕk Kὂyὕ streets

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I believe the lady with the rolling pin                                      A local gentleman      

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Decorative bits and Yὂrὕk Kὂyὕ Gothic

This next bit is really interesting…..I think especially for our Roanoke friends Jane and Peter.

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Ropes on the door indicate if the family is at home.

If it is hanging straight down, the family is home.  If the rope is pulled across with one knot, they’ll be home soon.  The more knots, the longer the family would be away.  I don’t remember if locks are ever used. 

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Even in Yὂrὕk Kὂyὕ they collect blue caps.

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Merhaba,

   This was going to be a quick email; we spent less than 2 hours in Kastamonu, so how much can you write?  But as I read, I had questions, so then I read more and had more questions.  It was a long day’s drive from Sinop to Safranbolu.  We made three stops along the way;  two for seeing and one for eating,  One could spend several days in Kastamonu.  But as we had things to do and places to be, we only had time for a quick stop.  If you ever go, plan to spend longer and make sure you try the helva.

Ru

The neglected charms of Kastamonu

“Why oh why don’t more visitors make it to Kastamonu? Of course, I know the answer to that question really — there’s no sea, no sand and not much nightlife to speak of either.  Still, for the sort of people who like a dollop of history to go with their holiday, then this Central Anatolian stronghold is, surely, the perfect destination boasting an attractive setting, a dramatic castle, lots of mosques, hans and hamams dating back to the Middle Ages and several Ottoman-style hotels that could on their own almost justify the bus ride.”  http://www.todayszaman.com

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“Let’s start with the castle. Kastamonu sits in a valley between two steep hills, which means that the best vantage point from which to view the castle is from the hill on the opposite side where a tiered tea garden fronts a clock tower dating back to 1885. Sitting here you will be able to appreciate how neatly the castle hugs the contours of the other hill. The existing building is not as ancient as some of Anatolia’s real oldies, having started life as a Byzantine work of the 12th century. Everyone has heard of the Byzantines, but the dynasty who went on to rebuild the castle, the Candaroğlus, is more of a mystery. In 1292 their first significant leader, Temür Yaman Candar, took advantage of the chaos that followed the collapse of the Selçuk Empire to establish his own dynasty (beylik) around Kastamonu. Not surprisingly he liked the look of the old castle and had it refortified.

Candar’s descendants dominated the area immediately north of Ankara and west along the Black Sea to Bolu right through 1462 when, inevitably, Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror came galloping through to establish Ottoman control. In the last few years restoration work has made the castle a focal point for the burgeoning domestic tourism industry, which means that visitors must run a gauntlet of tablecloth-selling shopkeepers on the steep path leading up to it. Disappointingly, there’s not that much to see inside — although you do get a great view of the clock tower.”

http://www.todayszaman.com/

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Sad Legend of the Clock Tower

   Behind the Governorship building high above the Sarayüstü Hill rests an important focal point of the city, the Clock Tower.  It was built in 1885 while Abdurrahman Pasha vas the governor of Kastamonu. There is a legend surround this tower that this clock once was in Istanbul.  In the late 1800s its bell made such a loud noise that the sultan princess who was living near it at the time got scared and resulted a miscarriage of her baby. Therefore as punishment to the clock it was sent to Kastamonu far away from Istanbul.  However, never minding the legend, the tea you will sip in its gardens will provide you the best view of Kastamonu. http://www.pbase.com/osmantanidik/kastamonu_clock_tower

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This is our friend Patricia posing outside the Tabaksons’ locally made helva ( halva) shop.

On a whim I bought a box of the helva and it was the best stuff.  Randal thought it was dry, but I thought it just melted in your mouth reminiscent of really good cotton candy.  Looking for info about Çekme Helva I found other comments comparing it to cotton candy.  I also read that Turks had to learn about “sweets” from other cultures, many introduced from the Middle East.

Kastamonu producing traditional palace dish

ANKARA – Turkish Daily News | 7/27/2005 12:00:00 AM |

The traditional ‘palace halva’ of Kastamonu, historically made by specially trained cooks in Seljuk and Ottoman palaces for centuries, is now being reproduced for residents of and visitors to Kastamonu, reported the Anatolia news agency.  The traditional “palace halva” of Kastamonu, historically made by specially trained cooks in Seljuk and Ottoman palaces for centuries, is now being reproduced for residents of and visitors to Kastamonu, reported the Anatolia news agency.

    Nearly 10 tons of palace halva are produced daily, and Turkish Airlines serves this special dessert to its foreign guests on their flights. In fact, many tourists have visited Kastamonu after enjoying this tasty treat on a plane.

The Bülbül brothers, Hayri and Erdem, specialize in palace halva and serve their products in stores located in Istanbul, İzmir, Ankara, Bursa and Antalya. They say foreign tourists like this traditional concoction as much as Turks. Hayri says it is quite difficult to make real palace halva, adding that it takes five specially trained cooks. He said the cooks pray before preparing the dessert. Bülbül said halva ingredients consist of plain flour, sugar, quality butter and water, and requires much manual pulling and kneading of the mixture. It is customarily served on Muslim holy days and at weddings, circumcision parties and funerals.

http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/

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The next door actually did sell Bülbül brothers Helva

I took this photo to show the helva sold in boxes made to look like Ottoman houses.  But I noticed the lettering on the yellow box and the name Bülbül.

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Before praying, one must wash.  It was cold but those who went to pray had stopped to wash.

There are many times, before beginning to pray that Jews are also supposed to wash their hands.  It’s interesting to me to see so many customs that I think of as Jewish that are common among countries of the Middle East.

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Entrance to the small bazaar/tea garden

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Too chilly to sit and have tea and too many shops to hunt for a “treasure.”

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Randal couldn’t resist this set of wooden bowls which were turned on a lathe and hand carved.

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The bath’s boiler of a Dervish Lodge is what the sign near it said.

I’m guessing it was to heat water for the hamam (bath.)

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I’m always attracted to the little cute ladies, and this one sent me on a tangent looking into services to the elderly in Turkey.  I gave her a few TL.   Later we saw her again Taṣ, good-hearted person that he is, collected some money for her from our group.  I have no idea how old she was; harder lives make people look older.  But it did make me wonder how hard the life is for elder women in Turkey where once, like most societies, families cared for elderly or infirm members.  I came across the following document published in 2007: The Situation of Elderly People in Turkey and National Plan of Action on Ageing

“However, in Turkey, the number of people benefiting from social security programs

who are insured in the literal sense has not reached the adequate level and a comprehensive social security network could not be built as of yet. …….

        Entitlement of the elderly person to some kind of an income becomes important in terms of economic sustainability of his or her living. Survey results indicate that 56 per cent of the elderly population is entitled for some kind of income. On the other hand, there are significant differences between male and female elderly population in terms of being entitled to income. While 75 per cent of men are entitled for an income, the percentage drops down to 38 per cent for women. Looking at the

analyses on the source of income, 46 per cent of elderly men cited their pension, while other sources cited were old-age pension and rental/interest income. Only 10 per cent of elderly men work. While only 6 per cent of elderly women are entitled for pension of their own, percentage of women who cited indirect pension as their source of income was 16 per cent. 10 per cent of elderly women are entitled for old-age pension and only 1 per cent still work.

The state offers its services to elderly people through accepting them to the nursing homes it opens and looking after them until they die. The private sector, on the other hand, offers its services through opening nursing homes or sending care providers to those who live by themselves or with their families. Especially in rural areas, someone from the family cares for the elderly individual unofficially. This person is usually the spouse, daughter, daughter-in-law, niece or granddaughter of the elderly

individual, which means that most of the time women assume the responsibility for caring for elderly people. Women who in particular have concerns about ageing and believe that they would not be able to care for themselves when they get old consider staying in homes planned specially for elderly people more positively compared to men who count on their wives in this respect.”

The Situation of Elderly People in Turkey and National Plan of Action on Ageing

http://ekutup.dpt.gov.tr

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Ataturk’s Hat

Ataturk encouraged the Turks to wear modern European attire. . After most civil servants had adopted the western hat with their own free will, in 1925 Mustafa Kemal wore his "Panama hat" during a public appearance in Kastamonu, one of the most conservative towns in Anatolia, to demonstrate that the hat was the headgear of civilized nations.

http://pinterest.com/pin/22869910579281444/

The following article about the Polish Jew who made Ataturk’s Kastamonu hat especially caught my attention because my mother’s father was a cap maker and his father made caps for the Czar’s special guard…or so family lore has it. 

Granddaughter recalls the Polish Jew who designed Atatürk’s hats

ISTANBUL - Hürriyet Daily News | 5/18/2011 12:00:00 AM | VERCİHAN ZİFLİOĞLU

    Polish Jew Adolf Loker was the designer of the revolutionary hats of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, founder of the Turkish Republic.  Documents and photos about Atatürk that Loker was keeping in his safe were destroyed during the Sept 6-7, 1955 events.  Loker’s granddaughter Mari Loker-Gormezano, a deputy candidate from the Republican People’s Party, or CHP, says: ‘I grew up as an admirer of Atatürk; this is not a thing that was imposed’

     The switch from the fez to Western-style hats was one of the most visible changes brought by the foundation of the Turkish Republic after the destruction of the Ottoman Empire.  As for the architect of this “dress code revolution,” Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, he had his hats designed by Adolf Loker, a Polish Jew from a long line of hat makers.

     The best known of these hats was the one Atatürk wore during his visit to the Black Sea city of Kastamonu in 1925 – a hat that today is on display at the former assembly building in Ankara, according to Loker’s granddaughter, Mari Loker-Gormezano.

     A deputy candidate for the Republican People’s Party, or CHP, in the upcoming elections, Loker-Gormezano spoke to the Hürriyet Daily News about her grandfather’s relation with Atatürk, the story of her family and her own political adventure.

      In addition to Adolf Loker, all the family members admired Atatürk, Loker-Gormezano said, adding that her grandfather was very sad when the founder of the Turkish Republic died. “He [Adolf] was keeping all documents and photos about Atatürk. But the safe in his hat store in Istanbul’s  Karaköy district was destroyed during the Sept. 6-7, 1955, [events] with all the materials in the store,” she said. “Newspaper clippings and the hat at the former assembly building are the only things that remain from the friendship between Atatürk and Loker.”

The events of September 1955, among the painful in Turkey’s recent history, occurred when daily Istanbul Express published news that the house where Atatürk was born in Thessalonica had been bombed. The response to this saw the houses and business places of many Greeks, Armenians and Jews destroyed.

     Loker-Gormezano defined these unhappy events as temporary. “It is necessary to understand the sincerity and feeling of the Anatolian people. They react against anything rapidly but calm down,” she said. “Those who know about this feature of Anatolian people make use of it. The future concerns me, not the past.”

      The closeness of the Loker family, which moved to Istanbul 600 years ago, to Atatürk is not only limited to his relationship with the hat maker. According to Loker-Gormezano, her older aunt İlda Berkoviç was the future Turkish leader’s French teacher. “I grew up with admiration for Atatürk, it was not a thing imposed later,” she said, adding that she has now become a candidate for the CHP, a party founded by Atatürk.

“I follow in the footsteps of my grandfather,” she said.

] Rejected as TRT presenter

Loker-Gormezano said she had applied to the Turkish Radio and Television Corporation, or TRT, to become a presenter, but this dream of hers did not come true, something she claimed was because of her Jewish background. “Yes, I could not become a presenter but I did not give up. Now I am a deputy candidate [for Parliament]. If I am wanted, I will become successful,” she said.

If she is successful in entering Parliament after the June 12 general elections, Loker-Gormezano will become the second Jewish deputy in Turkey’s recent history after Cefi Kamhi, an Istanbul deputy from the True Path Party, or DYP, in 1995.

    “I believe that people are born and live equally. My views will not change if I enter Parliament or not,” she said. “People should not be discriminated against because of ethnic identities. Unfortunately, the word ‘minority’ is highlighted all the time but we are all citizens of the Turkish Republic. That’s why all citizens should have the same rights. I am for human rights and equality.”

http://www.hurriyetdailynews.com/

Fashion history was made in Kastamonu; Men’s headwear : Turban to Fez to Western style hats.

    These days when it comes to the argument over modernity the focus may be all on women and the headscarf, but once upon a time the tables were turned in the other direction, and it was what men wore on their heads that drew all the attention.  Even in the 19th century the sultans found time to worry about what their male subjects were wearing, and it was the reformer Mahmut II (1803-39) who decreed that they should drop the turban in favor of the fez, the cylindrical, maroon-colored head covering that still graces many souvenir shops today.  For the best part of a century the fez reigned unchallenged, but then Mustafa Kemal Atatürk took against it. Growing up as a youth in Thessaloniki, he believed that people had mocked his fez as a symbol of backwardness, so no sooner had he proclaimed the new republic than he was scheming to replace it with more modern Western-style hats with brims. His plans came to fruition with the Hat Law of 1925, which made it compulsory for men to discard their fezes.  And it was in Kastamonu — "Atatürk’s catwalk," as Jeremy Seal described it in his travelogue "A Fez of the Heart" — that he first stepped out in public wearing a hat, and surrounded by an entourage who look as if they’re not quite sure what they’ve let themselves in for, a scene which is immortalized in photographs contained in the town’s small museum.  http://www.todayszaman.com/

http://gezimanya.com/ good site also if you travel to Kastamonu

http://eatingasia.typepad.com/ foods of Kastamonu

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Ruth and Randal




Boston Red Sox hat travels the world.