Passau, The Danube, and Leaving Germany: Entering Austria

Linz

Guten Abend

     We arrived today just past noon.  By 1 pm we were walking into town looking for a shop to buy sim cards for our internet dongles.  A nice young man whom we stopped to ask directions told us exactly where to go.  That checked off our list  there was time for a cold beer, and then ice cream, and then more beer…. It was very warm and a long walk from the city marina to the old town and town center.  I opted for water rather than beer and Mary had wine the second stop.  Actually the first beer was at a Mexican Restaurant where Mary and I ordered lemonwasser which is lemonade.  We actually got just plain water which was delivered to the table when I was in the WC or I would have sent it back.  Water was really better anyway. 

   Just now our boat neighbors Pete and Chantelle are visiting.  They are taking a few years to get to Turkey.  But they are EU residents so they don’t have the time constraints. 

This is part 2 of the Passau story about the rivers and the border lock between Germany and Austria.

Ru

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High water marks on the Town Hall, the building with the red-topped tower.

http://www.spiegel.de/  flooding in 2013 was the worst in 500 years.

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I took this photo standing mid-way between the Town Hall and the river. 

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Conjunction Point : The Danube, Inn and Ilz

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We spent the night at a Heining Yacht Club just the other side of Passau.  The next morning, while waiting for the okay from the lock keeper, Randal fed this group of duck.  But it was whole meal bread so maybe not so bad. 

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The next morning we cruised past Passau our final day in Germany

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Looking back at Conjunction Point and the towers of Passau

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The water became much muddier looking

“The Ilz is a small river, but the Inn adds a substantial amount of water to the Danube.  The force of the water brought down by the Inn is such that its brown waters can be seen pushing into the Danube for several hundred metres before merging.”   The Danube, A River Guide by Rod Heikell

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Our final lock in Germany: enter in Germany and exit Austria

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Replacing our German courtesy flag with the Austrian courtesy flag.  Rick and Mary had all the flags we’d need from their river passage in 2011. 

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The Austrian border flag was reallya bit further along and about as big as our courtesy flag.

Last Morning in Deggendorf and afternoon in Passau

Linz

Guten Tag

   We left Deggendorf on June 26th and today is the first day we’ve had wifi since then.  We are in Linz, Austria.  After leaving Deggendorf we spent the night in Heining and from there took the bus for an afternoon in Passau, our last stop in Germany.  Passau is a huge destination for cruise ships and the town seemed to be full of people speaking "American" English.  Passau is quite charming and we totally enjoyed our time there.  Our stop after Heining was in Schlogen in Austria, a lovely resort area where Rick, Mary and I hiked up the mountain behind the yacht club for an “aerial”  view of the river.  Today we came to Linz, a large city where we could buy Austrian sim cards for internet access. 

   This email is Passau part 1 as well as one last photo of Deggendorf.

Ru

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Early morning fog in Deggendorf : we got out while the getting was, if not good, at least possible. It certainly wasn’t going to improve any the next few days.    There were places on the river where we just squeaked by, and places along the way where we had to pass barges going up river and there was just enough water depth for both boats in the narrow channel.  Then the channel deepened and we were home free.

Our overnight spot was Heining at a the Yacht Club.  From there we caught a bus to Passau where we ate lunch and then explored for several hours.  Americans had invaded by way of all the huge cruise ships that lined the public dock.  Funny enough, as we’ve been in Germany so long, I felt like a “local” looking at all the “tourists.”

Passau is charming with lots of light and shadows which I tried to capture. 

“The setting of the Old Town” has picturesque squares, soaring towers, romantic lanes and enchanting promenades.”  Passau Tourist Map

On the German side of the border, Passau (km 2227 on the Danube) is a solid old bishopric that has always enjoyed the good life, celebrating its religious festivities with plenty of music, beer for the men and hot chocolate for the ladies.  Historically prospering from trade in wine, wheat and salt,  it is an inviting city, from the bulbous onion domes and graceful arches of its baroque monuments to the rounded promontories separating the waterways.”  JPM Guides  The Danube 

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An “arts and crafts” area surrounded the Dom plaza.

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The map calls this area “art alley” for all the shops selling local crafts.

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Steep alleys led down to the river

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A mime got my coin because you just don’t see many women street performers.

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Some young men who sounded pretty good

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A young girl balancing on a modern “thinker.” 

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A statue of poet and writer Emerenze Meier whose work was published in Passau.  For economic reasons she emigrated to Chicago with her parents.  Her life was not happy…

If Goethe had to prepare supper, salt the dumplings;

If Schiller had had to wash the clothes,

If Heine had had to mend what he had torn, to clean the rooms, kill the bugs-

Oh, the menfolk, none of them would have become great poets.

Emerenz Meier

http://www..born-in-schiefweg.de/en/emerenz-meier.html  is the website for the Emerenze Meier Society and Museum. 

St Steven’s Cathedral and Church Organ

To the south, the town’s core stands on the ridge of land between the Danube and Inn Rivers.  Towering over it is the cathedral of St Stephan, with its onion domes, the flamboyant gothic chancel and baroque interior.”  JPM Guides The Danube.

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We went in to see the organ…

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According to the Passau Tourist map info, St. Stephan’s Organ is the largest cathedral organ in the world with 17,974 pipes, 233 stops, and 4 carillons.  We certainly didn’t see anywhere near that many pipes.

“Until the 1990’s, the Passau Domorgan was the largest church organ in the world. Presently it is "only" the largest Domorgan (and third largest church organ) of the World.” http://mypipeorganhobby.blogspot.co.at/  where you can hear the organ being played.

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Asher and Sharon, you know I had to see this for you!

St Paul’s Church was a contrast of white walls and dark decorative sculptures.  It is supposedly the oldest parish church in Passau with dates of 1050 and 1678 connected to it. Actually it looked and smelled as if it had just been repainted.

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Art along the “shopping street.”

The shop on the left had beautiful hand-made paper and journals.